Jump to content
SAU Community

The Switch Has A New Dyno


FineLine
 Share

Recommended Posts

jealousy,

haha i aint jealous of you grammer boys and your sore arses mate,

haha

Sore arse! WTF? did they engage in man sex with the St eddy boys. :D

As my son says. St Peter Claver FTW. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Dale's silver 33 gtst came off the rollers last night. standard engine with gtrs turbo, 550 jectors, gtr fuel pump, plenum, fmic and zorst.

255 rwkw at only 1 bar of boost and an excellent delivery.

Unfortunately dale wont get to enjoy it for a bit as his hicas crapped itself on the way home and the car is steering like a drunk on stilts. could be a good thing too with greasy roads and an extra 100 hp. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

hahah yea :P, Well managed to fix the hicas up abit, but the suspension is still stuffed :unsure:

Lost the internet for a while so was unable to update. Tune went very well, as Noel said. Car has a very linear powercurve. very nice to drive, As said also Suprisingly with only 14 psi made 255rwkw, on a safe tune.

highly Recommend Mick from Signature. :)

chucked it on a dyno down here in bris and it reads 10kw higher. So I doubt Micks dyno is happy at all. Infact i think its smack on accurate.

regards,

dale.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RB25 stock ecu cannot be edited, I think however the R34 neo rb25's can recieve the "dr drift" style remap chip...

You could however use something like an apexi safc to map the afm's which can be quite benificial, however it depends on how far you wanta go with your car in the future.

R33 owners/RB25 users go for aftermarket ECU's, must commonlly the apexi powerfc as its easy to use and very cheap in compairson to others on the market.

However that said, its a bit hard finding them at the right price these days as apexi have stopped production of the ecu due to lack of supply of a certain chip from Nec.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeh i knew all that, thats common knowledge these days, i can get pfc tomorrow if i wanted but iv got the car where i want it, but iv heard that production of the chips that can be used for rb25 ecu's has started again, well you could always get them but they were way to expensive equaled roughly same as install n tune of a pfc plus alot o dikin round..

anyways i went there today n hittin up a power run tomorrow to check my afr's n shit.. car isnt in ideal dyno state at the moment but iv got parts here waiting to put on so would like to se before and after runs

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are options for tuning the stock R33 ECU but they require working 3 chips at once and not many tuners do that. About the only I know that might is Dr Drift, but that isn't a recommendation.

Take a look at the ways some guys are approaching using a GTR32/33 PFC to overcome the lack of supply. There is info around the forum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah Geoff "Dr Drift" did have a solution for the stock R33 ECU however it was easier and cheaper to buy a pfc and tune it.

So in short it was deemed a non-practical exercise, plus most tuners know the pfc and can tune them well with a datalog as where the dr drift stuff is not distributed all that well.

You have limited options to getting that tuned in QLD, I believe Mercury is the only place that can as they bought the rights/software to it in QLD or something like that.

2gceffy, so your just dyno'ing to check where you at before you play with it yes? So what are you asking when you say "Does anyone know about stock ECU's?

As I must have missunderstood what your asking when giving my first responce.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just curious to see what he is knowledgable in, i started makin a 300zx ecu into rb25 but couldnt be bothered ay i lost interest, you only need to swap round some pins and piss off a heap. the 300zx runs vct so you can tune it to rb25 very easily and you can rom tune them like r32,s13 ect im lookin to running a high flow again n that so might try it again one day......

prob should start back up on that ahahah

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
    • The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts. all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.
    • those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 
    • Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done.  Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture...  Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening.  Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues.  Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping.  Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.   
    • Actually, the best option is probably to get some of the stronger aftermarket driveshafts that have both the 5x1 and 3x2 pattern on them, so OP can do whatever the hell OP likes with the diff in the future and not have all this angst. I posted a link to them sometime in the last 2 weeks, I'm sure.
×
×
  • Create New...