Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

All this stuff is just taking up space, dont need any of it.

RB25 Throttle Position Sensor

RB25 Rocker Covers

RB25 Engine Mounts

R33 Lower Control Arms

RB Cam Gear (standard)

R32 ABS Unit

R32 Windscreen Wiper Motor

R32 Charcoal Canister

R32 Stone Guard

R32 Front Swaybar (got 2 of them)

R32 Rear Swaybar Inc Links, D Shackles and bushes

R32 Diff Half Shafts (6 bolt pattern, 3x2)

R32 Air Con Compressor

R32 Standard Intercooler

8mm Wheel spacers

If you need anything, Drop us a PM, reply or gimmie a bell on 0404049723 (Steve)

Pics can be had on request

Thanks all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182623-random-r32r33-bits-and-pieces/
Share on other sites

Mark84 - PM on its way

Ash-s13 - Yes thats correct, they do fit R32 GTST, thats what i had them on. They are slip-on, not bolt on. i think thtye fit any 5 stud car.

al3x - Tobe honest i dont really know how to tell if they are in good or bad condition. Ill try get some pics up today :thumbsup:

Hey man. Haven't seen you for a while.

The stone guard... is it the plastic guard under the engine or are you talking about something else?

Mine is cracked and I need a new one. I can't pick up for 16 days when I get my licence back.

Do you come past Doncaster anytime?

abu - Yeh i do, But its not for sale :(

Russman - Hey mate, how ya goin, nah i dont really head out to doncaster too often, but yeh, its the plastic guard under the motor...

Whats it worth to ya if i deliver it specially :)

Russman - Hey mate, how ya goin, nah i dont really head out to doncaster too often, but yeh, its the plastic guard under the motor...

Whats it worth to ya if i deliver it specially :(

$30 for petrol money and the guard? If you can hold on to it for 2 weeks I'll be really keen to go for a drive. 6 months is a dry spell.

No worries,

I dont really mind... I can come for a drive out that way tomorrow if you like?

Either that or i can just hold on to it for ya. Your call :(

Yeah if you could deliver that would be great. No pressure though. Tomorrow I get home from work at about 4:30-5 and leave again at 5:45. If not maybe weekend. Just ring me or SMS. 0421332860

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Are you suggesting that the kit did a cheap and nasty job of just jamming the wheel in between other things and caused the misalignment? I mean, we normally do this with an integrated crank trigger wheel, not something bodged on. It's not 1995 any more.
    • I mean, given the number of BMWs you own their tolerance for improper torque is rather low. The number of torque + angle spec bolts and non-reusable bolts in one is nuts.
    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
×
×
  • Create New...