Ksport 8 Piston Caliper Kit

[DaGr81]

i work for a and b motorsports and all brakes are tested and approved over seas and here before going on the market. there is a write up in this months street commodores compairing all the brakes on the market if you want more info on compairing them

how are they for cold braking on the street? there was someone further up in the post that had the g4 ones, done any cold braking tests?

[phunky_monkey]

So I take it that LMGT4's/TE37's can take the 355's?

[Beer Baron]

yeah I've seen them under 355s. depends a bit on the caliper and of course wheel offset but for isntance dave has 355s with alcons (or APs, i forget which) under 17inch drifteks.

[tacker]

The G4 brakes are fine from cold with street or track pads. we come out of pits for the first time with cold brakes on track days and they pull up fine from 130kms

[STATUS]

340s can fit. just depends on the wheel. in fact 355s would fit with some 17s too.

Yeah we sell alot of the 17x9.5 + 15 URAS NS01 to guys with big brakes as they fit quite easily.

[djr81]

the biot stuff looks the go!!!

brembo aus wants. 500 for each caliper bracket. 575 for each rotor 500 for each brake hat. then theres the calipers lol.

Bought locally, good sized Brembo gear 14" by 1.25" rotor, F50 calliper is on the not so fun side of $5k.

On the upside the Stoptech range of rotors appears to be a nearly exact match for the Brembos. The hats even appear to be the same.

http://www.stoptech.com/products/img/0605A...orDataSheet.pdf

Edited September 4, 2007 by djr81

[Ronin 09]

djr81, go for the Biot kit - you will not be dissapointed.

the quality of the hats is second to none (my rears have a steel insert drum for the handbrake, anodized hat, and a black treated rotor) that looks like a work of art. How the treatment is done, I don't know, but will get some pics of it after a few kays...

[djr81]

djr81, go for the Biot kit - you will not be dissapointed.

the quality of the hats is second to none (my rears have a steel insert drum for the handbrake, anodized hat, and a black treated rotor) that looks like a work of art. How the treatment is done, I don't know, but will get some pics of it after a few kays...

My basic worry is this: You usually only find out you have a cracked rotor less than a week before an event because you are too damned lazy to do your preventative maintenance and/or servicing in time. Which makes it hard to get a replacement rotor ex Japan. I guess my preference is for local & cheap (yeah, no chance)

Secondly I have some issues with trying to translate the website. Babelfish gives you the literal translation, but whilst it looks like English I have NFI what much of it is trying to say.

But yes the rear lined hats look the shit. Stuffed if I can figure out what they cost, however. Nor what half the options are. Still how much do you use your handbrake?

[Beer Baron]

yeah delivery is not the strong point of buying from jp. but I think the hat bolt pattern is compatible with other brand rotors. could be worth checking out. the biot F50 kit is under the $4K mark from memory.

[DaGr81]

ok heres some info i got from a british mag, convert it all yourselves btw food for thought r33 gtr in england 8000 pounds (what would the average salary in england be?)

i think the ksport kits look the best, although they may all be coming from the same company they just look much better

anyway the data (ksport kit with ds2500 pads) as follows FROM 100MPH - 0 (APPROXIMATELY 160KM/H - 0)

_______________DISTANCE(ft)______TIME(s)

RUN 1 __________369.4_____________5.1

RUN 2 __________364.4_____________5.2

RUN 3 __________351.5_____________5.0

RUN 4 __________351.3_____________4.7

RUN 5 __________349.2_____________5.0

RUN 6 __________333.6_____________4.9

RUN 7 __________338.2_____________4.8

RUN 8 __________328.1_____________4.7

RUN 9 __________326.1_____________4.8

RUN 10_________ 325.2_____________4.4

excuse all the lines i couldnt make a table any other way :S

peak and average g-force's were all around 1 and 1.1 respectively, while at the same time the driver managed to shave 1.7 seconds off his best lap time from braking later

Edited September 4, 2007 by DaGr81

[bren]

Sounds like that feature might have been ours. We sent two of our guys off with a magazine to do some testing. We used a red Nissan S14a.

ok heres some info i got from a british mag, convert it all yourselves btw food for thought r33 gtr in england 8000 pounds (what would the average salary in england be?)

i think the ksport kits look the best, although they may all be coming from the same company they just look much better

anyway the data (ksport kit with ds2500 pads) as follows FROM 100MPH - 0 (APPROXIMATELY 160KM/H - 0)

_______________DISTANCE(ft)______TIME(s)

RUN 1 __________369.4_____________5.1

RUN 2 __________364.4_____________5.2

RUN 3 __________351.5_____________5.0

RUN 4 __________351.3_____________4.7

RUN 5 __________349.2_____________5.0

RUN 6 __________333.6_____________4.9

RUN 7 __________338.2_____________4.8

RUN 8 __________328.1_____________4.7

RUN 9 __________326.1_____________4.8

RUN 10_________ 325.2_____________4.4

excuse all the lines i couldnt make a table any other way :S

peak and average g-force's were all around 1 and 1.1 respectively, while at the same time the driver managed to shave 1.7 seconds off his best lap time from braking later

Edited September 4, 2007 by bren

[djr81]

yeah delivery is not the strong point of buying from jp. but I think the hat bolt pattern is compatible with other brand rotors. could be worth checking out. the biot F50 kit is under the $4K mark from memory.

Well it is a bit of a punt without having the drawings. The second problem is that the offset of the rotor may be different between the brands. Which would mean your brackets are then useless aswell. Why can't they just provide all of the information like the kindly folk at AP Racing do?

cp5555_1cd.pdf

[Ronin 09]

from the rotors I've seen they tend not to have any offset from where they bolt on the hat though?

you're more guided by the thickness of the rotor?

[djr81]

from the rotors I've seen they tend not to have any offset from where they bolt on the hat though?

you're more guided by the thickness of the rotor?

More talking about this sort of thing. See how the centreline for the new larger rotor is different to that of the old.

98_647_2470_01.pdf

[Ronin 09]

yep i'm with you there, but what i'm saying is that once you stick on the new rotor, you don't need to worry about the old rotor centreline - only need worry about the replacement rotor annulus (at a zero offset) for geometric fit...

ie the face that bolts onto the hat is flat, and as long as the bolt centres are right, and the thickness is right, then the rotor centre should be in line with the bracking work...

hmm do i make any sense??

[djr81]

yep i'm with you there, but what i'm saying is that once you stick on the new rotor, you don't need to worry about the old rotor centreline - only need worry about the replacement rotor annulus (at a zero offset) for geometric fit...

ie the face that bolts onto the hat is flat, and as long as the bolt centres are right, and the thickness is right, then the rotor centre should be in line with the bracking work...

hmm do i make any sense??

Well sort of. But the aftermarket caliper is held on by a bracket which determines its offset. Logically this will be paired with the particular hat to put the centreline of the rotor the same as the caliper.

I guess what I am saying is there is not necessarilly a guarantee that Biot use the same centreline as, say Brembo or anyone else. I just don't want to be caught with a wrongly offset calliper bracket.

Does that make sense?

[Roy]

I would be very wary buying aftermarket calipers running 355mm rotors expecting them to fit inside a 17" wheel. There is no way my old LM GT4s were going to swallow a 355mm rotor and F50 caliper. Maybe if you were running +15 offset wheels or something...but even still i doubt that woudl allow sufficent clearance for rocks etc. between the caliper and the ID of the wheel.

dotn forget that you woudl liek some air around the pads etc

[djr81]

I would be very wary buying aftermarket calipers running 355mm rotors expecting them to fit inside a 17" wheel. There is no way my old LM GT4s were going to swallow a 355mm rotor and F50 caliper. Maybe if you were running +15 offset wheels or something...but even still i doubt that woudl allow sufficent clearance for rocks etc. between the caliper and the ID of the wheel.

dotn forget that you woudl liek some air around the pads etc

No I was pretty much resigned to having to cough up for some 18" LM's or similar.

Just trying to figure out a way of buying some F50 callipers & matching them to some rotors without having to pay stupid money for Brembo rotors. It looks like Stoptech will work as well as Biot. I just need some calliper bracket drawings to make some progress.

[Ronin 09]

yeah djr81 i know what you mean - didn't mean that you weren't getting it - more that I can't explain it...

I would reckon the rotor sizes for the Biot gear would be pretty standard though (they probably have other manufacturers toll make them anyway)

[Roy]

I just need some calliper bracket drawings to make some progress.

lol...patience. We just had a new draftie start so i lost my CAD licence on my laptop. Just waiting for the new licence so i can open the files and find which one it is Maybe i shoudl label files better then shit, good latest, fiddle, play etc etc