Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i think id rather the 750bhp 25/30...would be a step up from the 600bhp 25/30....

being different is nice if your a show pony and thats your thing. If your a racer...a true racer then practicality, power/torque is what matters. Its easier to make good reliable power out of a 26-25/30 then it is a 26, 25 20 and most certainly sr or ca. Thats probably the order in which they would go....however sr20 and rb20 are debateable. The four bangers seem to work well and are popular in drifting, however i always see shitloads of rbs out there. Funnily enough out of the few people i know that do drift either have rb25's or 30dets.

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i think id rather the 750bhp 25/30...would be a step up from the 600bhp 25/30....

being different is nice if your a show pony and thats your thing. If your a racer...a true racer then practicality, power/torque is what matters. Its easier to make good reliable power out of a 26-25/30 then it is a 26, 25 20 and most certainly sr or ca. Thats probably the order in which they would go....however sr20 and rb20 are debateable. The four bangers seem to work well and are popular in drifting, however i always see shitloads of rbs out there. Funnily enough out of the few people i know that do drift either have rb25's or 30dets.

yep i agree if u want oodles of power and on a budget would be stick it the RB platform. but like i was saying. brenton has a show car. and his car stands out pretty damn well. so why not have a standout showy engine. the SR will sit far more in the middle makin the have a better COG and it weighs far less bein alloy. better balance. less weight infront of the front wheels.

with my experiences. i think the RB25 and SR20 are similar. and if not far cheaper to extract 250-260 from the SR. will cost me 3..5-4k wher as the RB25 me and my mate built cost 10k but used parts like trust stuff like that. SR20 and RB25 are debatable in standard form with boltons par cams. and will find out first hand within the next few months. when the S1425 is done.

2JZ>1JZ>RB26>RB25/SR20>RB20>CA18... fark brenton wanna be super cool and put a CA20 with forgies from tomei..? :bunny:

brenton and i have been talkin bout doing a rotory conversion.. haha 20b or 13b. :) thoughts..??

yes the neo will fit. but the neo aint much different from a normal RB25. not really an upgrade imo

dude. i got one sitting at my house. take me 2 days to do the conversion.. but that engine is going into the S14 which we inspect this weekend.. he'll even have tip tronic. lol

5k S14 FTW :D

actually noel u couldnt be more wrong.. have a look. RB25 180sx are going for 17k for a 90 model.. and SR ceffys go for more than the RB ones do. and im sure a skyline with a SR20 in it would fetch more than a RB25.. why cause people like individuality.. like ur ugly ass chromies.. :)

cars with engine swaps nearly always fetch more. unless its a molested converted skyrine vs a complete stock low kms model.

You seriously need to stay away from the crack pipe. :D

best bet is to put a 2nd hand RB25 in it then sell it and move on to something already rebuilt, that is if you want to stay with a Skyline.

As to where you got the price of $5k for a second hand RB25, I dunno? someone was obviously pulling your leg. When I cooked the engine in one of my skylines, the engine only cost $2.5K to replace and that was three years ago, I would expect to pay less nowadays seeing as they are so common!

There is no doubt buying "pre-built" is cheaper...

Seriouslly tho, Nex is right the best thing to do is buy a stocko RB25, swap them over get the paperwork done and sell it, then buy again.

Stock Rb25's in great nick are round the $1500-2500 mark depending on what it comes with (ie. turbo, gearbox)

You seriously need to stay away from the crack pipe. :D

.. and u need to check carsales old man. alot has changed and u thinking ur always right hasnt. check carsales and get some evaluations.. :)

anyway brenton came over and we talked bout it for awhile.. prob gonna go forged RB25 with prob a KKR turbo. :D

that and my mates EG civic is finished.. yes.. NO VTEC but runs 5psi and goes pretty hard. imo alot harder than a standard r33 :D not bad for a $1000 budget conversion. used a T3 skyline turbo ebay manifold. pipping we had here. turbotech MBC. and our smoked gauges.

its a red one with a hidden FMIC with mesh on front bar..

.. and u need to check carsales old man. alot has changed and u thinking ur always right hasnt. check carsales and get some evaluations.. :rofl:

anyway brenton came over and we talked bout it for awhile.. prob gonna go forged RB25 with prob a KKR turbo. :)

that and my mates EG civic is finished.. yes.. NO VTEC but runs 5psi and goes pretty hard. imo alot harder than a standard r33 :) not bad for a $1000 budget conversion. used a T3 skyline turbo ebay manifold. pipping we had here. turbotech MBC. and our smoked gauges.

its a red one with a hidden FMIC with mesh on front bar..

Get your hand off it mudcrab. In one breath you claim a 180 with a 25 is worth the schizzle then say the engine from the 180 will add value to a line.

Heres a golden op for you to make some cash dude. Buy a 180 and a 33 line and simply swap engines. Using your logic you could make a bundle

I suppose you are half right, The 25 will add value to the 180. 26 would add even more. But as for a line with a 4 banger being worth more. Dream on.

Get your hand off it mudcrab. In one breath you claim a 180 with a 25 is worth the schizzle then say the engine from the 180 will add value to a line.

Heres a golden op for you to make some cash dude. Buy a 180 and a 33 line and simply swap engines. Using your logic you could make a bundle

I suppose you are half right, The 25 will add value to the 180. 26 would add even more. But as for a line with a 4 banger being worth more. Dream on.

Their value doesn't go up mark. You weigh up the cost of the conversion and then how much you sell it for and 99% of the time you will lose money. Sure you might sell it for $5k more than you pay for a stock one but it probably cost you $6-8 to convert it.

At the end of the day a car is only worth as much as someone is willing to pay. Doesn't mean it's worth the money you are asking, just someone is stupid enough to pay that much for it. That said, you can sometimes get bargains from importers where you'll pay next to nothing for an engine, slap it in as a direct bolt up (25 in place of a 20), conversion costs FA and you might get back more than you paid but there are much better ways of earning a quid and much faster also.

Rebuild is definately a better option. It costs a lot more to put in an SR and you will have a more empty pocket at the end of the day when you realize how much they cost to modify. Other RB's can be slotted in but once you weigh up cost of replacement engine, then all the rest of the mucking around, you are back to square 2 with an engine you are unsure of. You don't know it's life, you don't know how much longer it has left. At least with a rebuild you can customise it to your needs and get something strong that will more than likely handle the punishment you want to give out.

Their value doesn't go up mark. You weigh up the cost of the conversion and then how much you sell it for and 99% of the time you will lose money. Sure you might sell it for $5k more than you pay for a stock one but it probably cost you $6-8 to convert it.

At the end of the day a car is only worth as much as someone is willing to pay. Doesn't mean it's worth the money you are asking, just someone is stupid enough to pay that much for it. That said, you can sometimes get bargains from importers where you'll pay next to nothing for an engine, slap it in as a direct bolt up (25 in place of a 20), conversion costs FA and you might get back more than you paid but there are much better ways of earning a quid and much faster also.

Rebuild is definately a better option. It costs a lot more to put in an SR and you will have a more empty pocket at the end of the day when you realize how much they cost to modify. Other RB's can be slotted in but once you weigh up cost of replacement engine, then all the rest of the mucking around, you are back to square 2 with an engine you are unsure of. You don't know it's life, you don't know how much longer it has left. At least with a rebuild you can customise it to your needs and get something strong that will more than likely handle the punishment you want to give out.

yep knw wat ur saying dan. but what im saying is. its a show car and money isnt an issue really. that and. in most cases the converted car will fetch more than a plain one. we all knw that u will lose money. hell ur gonna lose money on the build too. u never make money in mods. hardly

Top of the line I see! Alfoil rods and packed clay pistons as well?

ok.. that was a mistake. for SRs KKR are beaut. but then i checked them up for the RBs and they are nasty bush bearings POS... talked to my mate and he says full boost by 4700.. then he binned it for a 3540.. so my bad :cheers:

alfoil rods..?? sounds light weight to me :down:

yep knw wat ur saying dan. but what im saying is. its a show car and money isnt an issue really. that and. in most cases the converted car will fetch more than a plain one. we all knw that u will lose money. hell ur gonna lose money on the build too. u never make money in mods. hardly

ok.. that was a mistake. for SRs KKR are beaut. but then i checked them up for the RBs and they are nasty bush bearings POS... talked to my mate and he says full boost by 4700.. then he binned it for a 3540.. so my bad :cheers:

alfoil rods..?? sounds light weight to me :down:

But your reference was to carsales.com? If it's a showcar and money isn't an issue then why the debate on value up or down?

By logic, a guy buys a 33 GTST S2 for $15k, doesn't modify it at all and drives it around for 12 months. This time next year if he keeps it in excellent condition he may get $15k still or possible as low as $13k so at most he may lose $2k. The other guy buys 33 GTST S2 for $15k spends $10k in performance mods and another $3k on stereo so total cost including car comes to $28000. If he's absolutely lucky he'll sell the car in 12 months for $20000. Sure he got $5000 more than he paid for the car...woohoo!, but lost $8000. Which do you prefer $2000 loss or $8000 loss? So there's losing money, and then there's losing money.

Not saying you're wrong or anything, it is true that you pay more for a modded car, but it's a bad idea to think you are going to get more just for changing to a different type of engine.

On another side though, SR's are definately a much better engine.

But your reference was to carsales.com? If it's a showcar and money isn't an issue then why the debate on value up or down?

By logic, a guy buys a 33 GTST S2 for $15k, doesn't modify it at all and drives it around for 12 months. This time next year if he keeps it in excellent condition he may get $15k still or possible as low as $13k so at most he may lose $2k. The other guy buys 33 GTST S2 for $15k spends $10k in performance mods and another $3k on stereo so total cost including car comes to $28000. If he's absolutely lucky he'll sell the car in 12 months for $20000. Sure he got $5000 more than he paid for the car...woohoo!, but lost $8000. Which do you prefer $2000 loss or $8000 loss? So there's losing money, and then there's losing money.

Not saying you're wrong or anything, it is true that you pay more for a modded car, but it's a bad idea to think you are going to get more just for changing to a different type of engine.

On another side though, SR's are definately a much better engine.

of course the 2k. but u get what i was saying yeah. the reference to carsales was to a ceffy with a SR and not a RB20 as it came originally.. and Slow180 which is a RB25neo 180sx going for like 17k.. some 89-90model shitter...

but yeah ur right about what is more practical. and i would rather lose 2k.. but wher is the fun in not modifying.. u can always take off mods.. :down:

METALCORP pay much more for alloy rather than regular steel

bahaha... good call..

anyway speak with brenton. think hes pretty determine to build the RB25.. :cheers:

A friend of mine is watching the price drop on a 180/neo25 for the last 4 weeks, started at 17ty blingo and is now down to 10,5, modded cars are hard to sell unless they blingtastic.

is it now.. well he wanted to trade for my GTR.. had a look and it was a shit car.. heard of it had shit compression and been drifted.. the owner is a dick and thats prob why its 10k now.. still more than a ca18 180 :D

BRENTON GET THAT 2WAY FROM UR MATE AND RUN.. they go well in 180sx :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What could be causing my clutch problem besides a bad master or slave then? Both those parts are new 
    • Just came across this, but in QLD I start leave again in 2 weeks, if it is still available I might drive up and check it out Unless, @MBS206 do you live near here????, if so I could hit you up with a finders fee https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/hope-island/auto-body-parts/nc-mx5-factory-hard-top/1328976391
    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...