R31 Skylines

[barricade]

I retract my previous statement, I was wrong.

I hope everything goes smoothly.

RB25 FTW lol

Edited September 4, 2007 by barricade

[KISIN]

Thats nice, I am sure people will remember not to try and help incase they are crapping on.

Umm...im lost...what i said above was in no way directed at you buddy.

I said that because i spoke 2 a couple of people and they said stuff to me that was complete bullshiz, and i knew that. I dont see how you linked that yourself ?

edit: just to make it clear, the people i have in mind told me that there is not a big difference between putting in a 20 or 25. Im sure you'll agree that its bs well. And i said thanks to Ryan for letting me know that the 25 cant compare with the 20 because he drove both.

Edited September 4, 2007 by KISIN

[R31 drift pig]

Alright. Time to set a few things straight.

I OWN a S3 R31, witha RB20 pushing 200 at the treads with S2 RB5 turbo, Fuel pump, FMIC, EBC, Remap and straight pipes

I've driven a few with 25's in them. Hands down drive a 20. No question. Going from a 34, you may prefer the 25 though.

I helped put in Joel/SLY031's engine gearbox, and it was a pain in the ass to do. :P

a RB25 IS NOT A bolt in job- Custom G/Box X-member, custom tailshaft, and a few other bits and pieces.

A RB20 engine package can be had for $1600-$1800, and is a straight bolt in job for a manual 31.

Actually, I reckon for the price of a 25 package, you could have a 20 in there setup and running, modded as well.

Not only that, a 25 is illegal and requires engineering, a 20 DOES NOT. Only requires a Engine number change.

This may help also with insurance, as its a daily.

A little food for thought

Edited September 4, 2007 by R31 drift pig

[KISIN]

Alright. Time to set a few things straight.

I OWN a S3 R31, witha RB20 pushing 200 at the treads with S2 RB5 turbo, Fuel pump, FMIC, EBC, Remap and straight pipes

I've driven a few with 25's in them. Hands down drive a 20. No question. Going from a 34, you may prefer the 25 though.

I helped put in Joel/SLY031's engine gearbox, and it was a pain in the ass to do. :P

a RB25 IS NOT A bolt in job- Custom G/Box X-member, custom tailshaft, and a few other bits and pieces.

A RB20 engine package can be had for $1600-$1800, and is a straight bolt in job for a manual 31.

Actually, I reckon for the price of a 25 package, you could have a 20 in there setup and running, modded as well.

Not only that, a 25 is illegal and requires engineering, a 20 DOES NOT. Only requires a Engine number change.

This may help also with insurance, as its a daily.

A little food for thought

Hmmm that IS food for thought lol. Some very good points there. Now that you mentioned it, my biggest turn off for the 25 is the fact that its not a direct bolt in like the 20...

What if i get an auto s3...wont be much hard work to fit a 20 + manual in there ?

Edited September 4, 2007 by KISIN

[cruzin33]

Auto to manual you will need a custom gear box X-member becouse the auto stud patten is diffrent to the manual stud patten but its not that hard at all just a cut and shut with the auto x-member

[KISIN]

Auto to manual you will need a custom gear box X-member becouse the auto stud patten is diffrent to the manual stud patten but its not that hard at all just a cut and shut with the auto x-member

Hmm would it be better to get a x member from a manual (from wreckers) and put it in there (and put a nice new clutch in while im messing with the gearbox).

[cruzin33]

I should have said stud patten on the car and also you will need a tail shaft from a manual

[R31 drift pig]

Cruzin 33 is dead right, the manual and auto mounting studs are in different places. I THINK factory manual X-Member bolts up if 2 holes are redrilled, but not 100%

Id go a Rb20 engine package, convert to manual or buy a factory manual, (but have 3.6 gearing) and put it all in with a GTR/walbro pump, china-spec FMIC (R32/33 kits go straight in), get a 32 dump and a cheap mild steel exhaust made, a decent single plate clutch and then Remap the ECU on 1 bar. easy 180 KW's and prolly all under $2500-$3K if you do a lot of the work yourself. EBAY minispool, some decent struts/springs (or S13 coilover converion if you want) then enjoy thrashing it.

Going 5 stud is a hassle, as the cheapest way we've found is to have EA falcon axles cut down and resplined, but thats still over $500, then you need to do it on the front. (S14/S13 spec) I decided to spend more on 4 stud weels rather than going through all that

Wish mine was a "cheap" thrasher, Ive spent quite a bit of cash and im still stuck in the shed LOL. Nearly there.

[Ryanrb25]

manaul cross member will bolt up to auto studs, only two of them tho, oooooooo dodgy you say, try 5 years of just two bolts holding with coilovers, never ever ever flexed ever. i can fabricate an rb25det crossmember if you like, done it before..its easy. im a fitter and turner by trade so if you need a hand with that one just let me know. once again can't emphasis, 10psi, standard turbo, standard computer, fmic, exhaust 200rwkw and a dick load torquer. mate just spent 3 grand hybrid t3,t4, microtech, gtr injectors, fuel reg, fuel pump, tuning, this that and the other and only made 223rwkw with a rb20. My standard 33 with 207rwkw leaves it behind because of 20 lag. I wouldn't reccomend, nor would i be bothered writing all this shit if i wasn't certain about the rb25 and hey if you want 270-280rwkw later on, do it, with standard internals!...tested and proven. 170%

ive got nothing against rb20s and if you go for this option then good choice none the less, but make the right decision. and yes Joel and browny both opted for rb25 in their 31's like me!

Edited September 5, 2007 by Ryanrb25

[R31 drift pig]

Not only that, a 25 is illegal and requires engineering, a 20 DOES NOT. Only requires a Engine number change.

This may help also with insurance, as its a daily.

Daily driver mate. If he gets cought with a 25DET, he's f**ked. simple. Just Like Joel was. Never get the car off defect, unless you engineer, which would be $3000-$4000+

He gets cought with a 20, he has a chance of getting through regy unscathed.

a 31 can be insured with a 20 in it too. Cannot with a 25. He hits a Merc or something and they dont cover him because of the engine, he's gonna be paying it off for years.

Actually, I reckon for the price of a 25 package, you could have a 20 in there setup and running, modded as well.

As much as 25's make heaps of power yadda yadda yadda, Doesnt change the fact that 25DET's cost a shitload more than a 20, plus all the fabrication to do so. I was under the impression that this was a budget build? I know its easy enough for someone with the skills (Im a Boilermaker by trade, built the X-Member in Joels car) but it sounds like he wants a straight in bolt up job. And a 25 certainly isnt.

if this was a no holds bared excercise, then Id say go a 26DETT or a twin cam 30 over both of them.

You keep arguing about how the 25 is so good, what about the 20? LOVES revs, MUCH better limiter, cheaper, stronger bottom end and also Cheaper to replace if you pop it.

Get Bored? Stick a set of GTR injectors in there, a GT2871RS on 18psi and a Z32 with mapping to suit and make 250 with full boost by 3700rpm. And if you get bored of that, spend $5K and build a 24stroker and destroy all comers!

All this being said, 200kw's in a Stifly sprung/spooled 31 (easily achieveable with either motor) is still a handful.

Edited September 5, 2007 by R31 drift pig

[Ryanrb25]

fair enough...you make valid points...i think i was just really pleased about my conversion. Was probably the best decision i made with cars. Going on personal experience id do it again in a flash. im not sure where you get the stronger bottom end part tho....

[KISIN]

Thanks Ryan and R31 Drift Pig you guys both have valid points.

Yes Drift pig you are correct, i am looking for a daily driver, the easiest possible way of bolting the new engine in, and its all on a budget.

Keep in mind that even my mum will drive this car...no need for 250rwkws there lol.

I also read a little bit about the RB24...Jesus Christ...from what i can gather this could be one of the best value for money thrashing engines.

So yeh...cheap daily. I want a more powerful car and that will come in good time Wouldnt want the 31 pushing over 200rwkw.

Edited September 6, 2007 by KISIN

[R31 drift pig]

Id go a Rb20 engine package, convert to manual or buy a factory manual, (but they have 3.6 gearing) and put it all in with a GTR/walbro pump, china-spec FMIC (R32/33 kits go straight in), get a 32 dump and a cheap mild steel exhaust made, a decent single plate clutch and then Remap the ECU on 1 bar. easy 180 KW's and prolly all under $2500-$3K if you do a lot of the work yourself. EBAY minispool, some decent struts/springs (or S13 coilover converion if you want) then enjoy thrashing it.

This is exactly what Id be doing then....

I have a very similar setup, except using a RB25 S2 turbo, SARD FPR and EBC.

[KISIN]

This is exactly what Id be doing then....

I have a very similar setup, except using a RB25 S2 turbo, SARD FPR and EBC.

I was thinking a similar setup at the beginning (before the 25 idea):

rb20 engine package (box ecu loom etc etc), fmic and full zorst.

flush the injectors and maybe get a bosch 040

then next step would be bigger injectors, fuel pump if i didn't get 1 before, new clutch (unless i get 1 staright away) RB25 turbo and a boost controller.

Dont really need coilovers.

[R31 drift pig]

R32 Engine package - $1600 - $1800

R32 Just Jap FMIC Kit - $350

Walbro pump - $180

Turbo Tech Bleeder - $30

Boostworx Remapped Ecu $550

Just Jap Dump Pipe and Exhaust Tech mild steel exhaust - $600

X-Treme Single plate 5 - puk Clutch $440

= 180 @ wheels, on stock injectors/AFM/internals, and wont stress the box either. Easy, Reliable power. You will need a pump above 140 odd at the wheels. Stock R31 pump is no good for anymore. Id also do the clutch BEFORE you put it in, pain in the ass to remove the box from the car.

Id do that and leave it there.... it's still a friggin handful.

Wouldnt bother with injectors for a RB25 turbo, Im using a Sard FPR to bump up the rail pressure.... when I get my GT2871 Ill go a set of 550cc sards and a Z32.

[Matty 31]

R32 Engine package - $1600 - $1800

R32 Just Jap FMIC Kit - $350

Walbro pump - $180

Turbo Tech Bleeder - $30

Boostworx Remapped Ecu $550

Just Jap Dump Pipe and Exhaust Tech mild steel exhaust - $600

X-Treme Single plate 5 - puk Clutch $440

= 180 @ wheels, on stock injectors/AFM/internals, and wont stress the box either. Easy, Reliable power. You will need a pump above 140 odd at the wheels. Stock R31 pump is no good for anymore. Id also do the clutch BEFORE you put it in, pain in the ass to remove the box from the car.

Id do that and leave it there.... it's still a friggin handful.

Wouldnt bother with injectors for a RB25 turbo, Im using a Sard FPR to bump up the rail pressure.... when I get my GT2871 Ill go a set of 550cc sards and a Z32.

def a +1 on fuel pump, minimum of a 32 GTR pump (or equivalent). u can use standard r31 manual x member, needs to be notched to clear 2 of the 4 bolts, or alternatively tap new bolts into the manual positions. Ryan also knows what he's talkin bout too, as the Manual conversion how to on R31 forums was written by him

but ben makes valid points, as he's my right hand man

club ghetto

[R31 drift pig]

Yes. I decide whether you car runs or not.

[KISIN]

would the bosh 040 (in-tank) do for the fuel pump ? even if i put a slightly bigger turbo later on (rb25 turbo) ?

And whats the best clutch to use taking into account its a daily and like i said even my mum will drive it sometimes. (needs to be pretty easy on the foot) ?

Edited September 6, 2007 by KISIN

[skylineguy19]

hey man, bosch 040 will do you well, ive got one in my 31 and its pushing just over 200rwkw and pump doesnt miss a beat.

In terms of clutches i used a Xtreme HD Organic clutch in my 31 coupe with a 20det, easy on the foot but still with good bite.

[KISIN]

hey man, bosch 040 will do you well, ive got one in my 31 and its pushing just over 200rwkw and pump doesnt miss a beat.

In terms of clutches i used a Xtreme HD Organic clutch in my 31 coupe with a 20det, easy on the foot but still with good bite.

Kool thanks !

Also, on the weekend i might go have a look at an rb20 + gearbox...I want to know what gearbox im looking at 20,25 or 30...I found pictures of the manul 20 and 25 and saw a couple small differences which i picked out, i just cant seem to find an rb30 manual gearbox pic...? Can anyone help (yes i googled it)