Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

r33's have an electric hicas unit, no fluids envolved. try running the hicas diagnostic to see if you get an error code. i've also herd of hicas on 33's playing up when they aren't get enough volts/current. another thing, do you know if you still have your speed limit intact (180km/h) if its disabled by cutting the speed signal wire on your ecu that will also stuff hicas around.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182966-hicas-light/#findComment-3318659
Share on other sites

r33's have an electric hicas unit, no fluids envolved. try running the hicas diagnostic to see if you get an error code. i've also herd of hicas on 33's playing up when they aren't get enough volts/current. another thing, do you know if you still have your speed limit intact (180km/h) if its disabled by cutting the speed signal wire on your ecu that will also stuff hicas around.

how do u do the diagnostic tests??.... and how do i check if the speedo is still intact??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182966-hicas-light/#findComment-3318834
Share on other sites

do a search on this forum. there is a tutorial on how to do it and what the codes mean. no not your speedo. the speed signal for the computer, lets your computer know how fast you are going and lets that the hicas ecu knows how fast you are going so it can do its thing. its an easy way to remove you speed cut but it stops you hicas starting up properly.

do you know if there is a hicas lock bar installed?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182966-hicas-light/#findComment-3318909
Share on other sites

do a search on this forum. there is a tutorial on how to do it and what the codes mean. no not your speedo. the speed signal for the computer, lets your computer know how fast you are going and lets that the hicas ecu knows how fast you are going so it can do its thing. its an easy way to remove you speed cut but it stops you hicas starting up properly.

do you know if there is a hicas lock bar installed?

i would have no idea.... how could i find out??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182966-hicas-light/#findComment-3319040
Share on other sites

did you buy the car fairly standard? if so it probably wont have one installed. look under the back of your car at the back of the diff. if there is a bar there insted of a big electric motor (looks like a big windscreen wiper motor) then you have one. again do a search, there are pics around that show what these bars look like and there position. try the diagnostic, it'll give you a better idea

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182966-hicas-light/#findComment-3319055
Share on other sites

If you still have HICAS and there's something wrong with it, think seriously about installing a lock bar instead of fixing a faulty HICAS - who needs the computer telling the rear wheels where to point.

You'll then have the HICAS light on all the time (unless you remove the bulb) but at least there'll be a reason for the HICAS light to be on.

As the previous post said there's plenty of info on removing HICAS, but you'll need to source the lock bar first.

Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182966-hicas-light/#findComment-3319935
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

G'day,

I have a question, would '89/90 Steering wheel on '93 column affect HICAS in any way?

Cos my friend and I replaced '93 steering wheel with '89/90 and the HICAS light came on excatly the way you described.

I'm looking to fix it cos it isn't fun fighting your own car on straight line!

I'm going to have another crack at it, see what happens or I just get lock bar.

Cheers

Grant

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182966-hicas-light/#findComment-3402933
Share on other sites

Grant it depends on whether or not the boss is hicas compatable, if it is it will fit on perfectly without fouling on the plastic lugs that sit behind the steering wheel. When you change it over, you will have to reset the HICAS to get rid of the light (i think). There are a few tutorials on here how to do it. You may also have to reset the SRS computer too

The HICAS light will also come on if your brake fluid is low on the R32 or the connections are faulty, or just the connections on the R33 + GTR's so check these before buggering around with this test...

To put HICAS in test mode:

start car in neuteral with the steering wheel in the centre, starting from centre, turn the steeing wheel 20deg (about 10 and 2 o-clock)

left (10)

right

left

right

left

then to centre.

pump the breaks 5 times (do NOT hit the break at any time before this or it will disable hicas test mode). Hicas light will come on and the rear whels will move when you turn the steering wheel.

Put the car in drive (a/t) or first (m/t). Drive slowly foward (under 10kph) in a straight line. 1 of 2 things will hapen after about 10m, 1 the hicas light will flash fast, this indicated all ok and NO faults found. The other is that it will flash a code if a fault is found. The r33 onwards has 2 flashes for the code, the long flash is first digit, short flash is second digit. Codes are:

R32

1- hicas solinoid right

2- '' '' '' '' left

3- cut off valve

4- power steering solinoid

5- speed sensor

6- angle sensor

7- neuteral position sensor

8- park break sensor (a/t) or cluch sensor (m/t)

9- inhibit switch (a/t) or neuteral sensor (m/t)

R33+

11- hicas control unit

12- '' '' motor power supply awol

13- '' '' '' '' output not present

21- speed sensor

22- steering angle sensor awol

23- " " " " " " " " or neuteral

24- rear main sensor input awol

25- " " sub sensor " " " "

31- park break sensor awol

32- inhibit switch (a/t) or neuteral switch awol (m/t)

33- engine speed signal awol.

Edited by Jmaac
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182966-hicas-light/#findComment-3407341
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...