Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I just ordered my parts for my gearbox for my R33 RB25DET. I pulled the box apart and determined that nearly all the syncros worn.. (yeah I know, it suprised me too) 1-2 as always, was the worst.

I brought all 6 syncros ( 1-2 and 2-3 are dual syncros for those who didn't know), I brought all new bearings and seals.

In total, it cost me $1380. Not cheap but expected.

I have my gearbox going into fitzgerald racing here in Box Hill Victoria. They are very good and come highly recommended.

I will keep you all posted on how the rebuild goes and how much it ends up costing me. I've also rebuilt my engine myself last year which was an experience... forged pistons, etc... If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.

Has anybody rebuilt their gearbox themself? If so, how easy or hard was it? I'm thinking of giving it a go myself after a successful engine rebuild.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183042-just-got-gearbox-parts-from-nissan/
Share on other sites

ooo not bad.

If you're after any info or places to get gearbox recon'd try

www.japanesegearbox.com.au

When i went there, they had no r33 gearboxes, only r32 rebuilt boxes.

Not sure if they as good as the one you stated, but if you're looking around for quotes doesn't hurt to give them a call ;)

Thanks mate...

I have got some quotes but I know one of the guys there and work with his son so I have complete trust in them. I'm the sort of guy that would pay a bit more knowing that the job will get done well and I suppose I know the work they do on racing cars is awesome.

I suppose time will tell, fingers crossed. thanks for your info though mate.

Once again, if anyone has rebuilt their box themself, let me know how you went.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh man what a deal.... Funny enough (well not really) I sold a car to some old dude (buying for his Daughter) on a Saturday, He asked if she could take the car now and pay me the money on Monday as the bank wasn't open. Needless to say I told them to come back with the cash or get f**ked! Luckily the money seemed to magically appear in his pocket a few minutes later, so it all ended well (for me).
    • Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
    • All I can say is, that's still bloody awesome! No plans on caging it I'm guessing?
×
×
  • Create New...