Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I have had this upgrade in mind for ages (R34 GTT manual). I have a few questions. I'm getting the Exedy Hyper single clutch installed next week by mate (who is also a honda mechanic) so thats sweet. I have the following items to install.

Clutch (new flywheel bolts, release bearing)

Apexi powerFc & controller

HKS 3037proS (have started making the custom down pipe)(also have some air intake mods to make)

z32 AFM and brand new plug

Sard 650cc's

blitz boost controller

Cambelt

general belts

and other bits and pieces. (need to get oil/water lines for the turbo - any suggetions)

_ already have exhaust, fuel pump and sard fuel reg.

Can I install the powerFc and complete the start up procedure on the same day as I remove the original turbo? I want the shop to do the rest. Can I install the powerFc then install the turbo/custom pipe and then start the car ? or install not start then tow to shop ? or install and drive? Any help welcomed ! I have read the project32 tutorial for some hinds. :D:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183131-my-r34-gtt-hks-3037pros-install/
Share on other sites

Your questions are a little hard to understand.

So you want to install the power fc and drive to the workshop to install all your parts, yes?

The power fc has a base map you can drive around on, but no boosting it as it wouldn't be tuned.

Regardless of what you do the fc will have to be tuned to your mods after they have been installed.

Hmmm if you keep standard injectors in there you should be able to drive it completely off boost to the workshop if its not too far on the standard FC map... just make sure you don't give it stick because everythin will be out of wack with that sized turbo on there!

it wont matter which order you install everything, as the power fc will be on the base map which wont change at all till you get it tuned

if you read up on how to set it up for new injectors in paul's faq, you may consider doing them too.

or plan B

forget about installing the pfc

install the turbo and dump pipe, then drive to the tuners on the standard ecu.

installing the pfc takes less then 3 minutes, and the tuner will need to reinitiate the idle learn once the injectors and afm are changed anyway, so let him put it in once everything is done.

install everything.. plug in pfc, plug in the figures for the the injectors and z32 afm... and drive to the workshop

i was driving around for a few weeks with base powerfc map with 740cc injectors, z32 afm and hks gt2835 pros. untill i could get it tune, just drive it normal and everything will be fine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A little follow up here on the ceramic coating.  We've had storms galore here and I've done a few ks, enough to gross them up  Consensus is that they didn't get as dirty as usual, the coating definitely repelled a little of the dirt and I think they kinda snowball. They get a little dirty and then they get dirty faster which makes sense. Cleaning them regularly would allow them to protect better.  Cleaning was a breeze. I tried first to just hose them off which, unsurprisingly, did nothing. But, making the wheels wet and then just wiping them over with a used but clean microfibre cloth was all that was required. I didn't need any cleaner at all, just water and a cloth. The wheels look amazing again.
    • Gave her a nice wash today and took extra time to clean off the tree sap and tar and crap. We have a usable garage now so she'll stay cleaner longer. Took a few snaps in some nice light afterwards.   
    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
×
×
  • Create New...