33 Is Finally Going Dyno Graph Attached

[bazr33]

here is the graph.

i am quite happy with it. awesome job by Mick from signature performance

[FineLine]

At last Baz, It sure took some sorting. Had a look at your line when it was on the hoist at micks and i cant help but think theres plenty left in it just by replacing the standard cat.

Congrats on getting it up and going mate. cya round the switch.

[bazr33]

thanks Noel. im impressed with it and hopefully i dont lose my licence now haha. Nah i will be sensible.

yeah that cat had been replaced a fair while ago and is a hiflow one, but yeah looks a bit worse for wear.

might have to replace it.

Sure is a bit different then driving the datto ute for so long haha

[NYTSKY]

A tad on the lean side?

But nice curve,how much boost are you running? Im sure you can get plenty more out of that turbo.

Is it a 3037 or 3071?

[bazr33]

14 psi

i just know its a gt30r .7 comp housing .82 rear.

there was the initial intention i was going to have the turbo run 18psi but, as mick said and i agreed, i think safety for the engine for now is on the cards.

depending on how the engine holds up i could possibly bump up the boost later, but wont be for a fair while.

[NYTSKY]

At 18psi you should see 300rwkw no probs.

[bazr33]

Very interesting wat stuff did u have to move to actually mount the gt30 power steering apears to b moved and washer bottle was that all or is aircon removed to run bottom intercooler piping aswell has to b moved?

Interested in maybe doing something similiar in the future just wondered how involved it was from say fitting a normal high flow turbo ie manifolds etc wat sorta budget did u have on this ?

thanks ROry

power steering resovoir is from a r31/pintara im pretty sure, it is metal can as i thought it would survive a bit easy with all the heat coming from the turbo. It has been moved not alot of modifyin was required.

The washer bottle is a cheapo supercheap washer bottle, as the standard washer bottle was too big and didnt accommodate for the r31 accelerator cable, of how i routed it. Air con is still connected, nothing was changed there. Only thing that was changed from the intercooler pipes was the pipe coming off the turbo obviously, and the pipe coming from the tb because of plenum change.

The budget on the manufacture of the plenum, exhaust manifold dump and water/oil lines was roughly 2300. But because of obstacles that i have faced along the way that blown out quite a bit and was planning at a certain stage to roll it off a cliff. But im glad i didnt.

[Dale FZ1]

Gt30r id tag is - KE0106j

7001770 5014

But nice curve,how much boost are you running? Im sure you can get plenty more out of that turbo.

Is it a 3037 or 3071?

With that tag number, it is actually a GT3082R, aka GT3040R, aka GT30R. I'd originally suspected it might have been using the 7 bladed TO4S compressor, but it's bigger than that.

There is plenty more left in the turbo, but you'd want to be mindful of surge if you crank too much boost into it. A turbo that size if able to pump more boost at middling rpm should be able to easily outflow the engine's breathing capacity.

Shape of the curve is smooth, and AFR looks well controlled - nice consistent mapping and I'd say some time spent getting that looking nice. I hope your drive impressions are good, and it performs well on-road?

Got any pics with good detail of that exhaust manifold?

[NYTSKY]

Yep with that turbo you will see big numbers.When does it hit full boost.Id imagine 3800-4000rpm??

[R338OY]

Congrats mate.

Graph shows some steady power being made. Enjoy it

[Devils_Advocate21]

not bad at all, but with the graph attached you may umm pick up more power by lowering intake temps down, 60 deg god damn?? awell well done

[bazr33]

Yep with that turbo you will see big numbers.When does it hit full boost.Id imagine 3800-4000rpm??

To be honest i havent had the chance to see when full boost is, been trying to keep an eye on the road haha. But will check next time i head out.

going by feel of the engine it comes on pretty strong and im guessing around 3500-3800.

[bazr33]

With that tag number, it is actually a GT3082R, aka GT3040R, aka GT30R. I'd originally suspected it might have been using the 7 bladed TO4S compressor, but it's bigger than that.

There is plenty more left in the turbo, but you'd want to be mindful of surge if you crank too much boost into it. A turbo that size if able to pump more boost at middling rpm should be able to easily outflow the engine's breathing capacity.

Shape of the curve is smooth, and AFR looks well controlled - nice consistent mapping and I'd say some time spent getting that looking nice. I hope your drive impressions are good, and it performs well on-road?

Got any pics with good detail of that exhaust manifold?

In regards to surge i havent noticed any of it, but yeah that was what i would be worried about if i did bump up the boost.

Later on i would like to change ECU to another item that has a built in map sensor rather then keep the afm.

Comparing the dyno graph with the car on the road, would have say feels spot on as it hauls ass and is very smooth, no hesitations or any unfamiliar noises.

Mick has done an awesome job in making the Exhaust Manifold, changing the dump to suit, and dyno.

I just hope for now my clutch holds up.

[dangerman4]

sorry bazza but that graph is horrible,

the power delivery and the AFR arent what i would have expected.

ive just gone thru my graphs from my old gt30 and my new gt35 and at 100kph im up in the 230kw range, while your at 150hp. thats a pig.

just my thoughts

[FineLine]

With that tag number, it is actually a GT3082R, aka GT3040R, aka GT30R. I'd originally suspected it might have been using the 7 bladed TO4S compressor, but it's bigger than that.

There is plenty more left in the turbo, but you'd want to be mindful of surge if you crank too much boost into it. A turbo that size if able to pump more boost at middling rpm should be able to easily outflow the engine's breathing capacity.

Shape of the curve is smooth, and AFR looks well controlled - nice consistent mapping and I'd say some time spent getting that looking nice. I hope your drive impressions are good, and it performs well on-road?

Got any pics with good detail of that exhaust manifold?

This same tuner doess my 25 to just under 500 hp hp atw's and I can tell you he is very pedantic about the way he goes about it. even at lower boost baz" car will kick arse through the midrange as most of his tunes do.

1 bar is only just starting to touch on the real efficiency in the turbo and i am betting that boost will come on noticeably quicker when the wick is wound up.

He also tunes several of our local community lines around the switch area including several of my buds and does a splendid job particularly of tuning the low midrange area where most of these cars do their kicking. I am keen to see you put a few kays up and then get it back for a bit more oomph Baz, If you think it hauls now it should rock then.

[Pal]

your atmospheric temp and intake tems are to far apart . AT-30 IT-60. need to get this closer together to get a proper dyno result. these figures can show a bit more power than what you actually have.

[dangerman4]

i should also point out that you have spent prob around $7k on bolt on mods to gain 20 hp.

if you put some more fuel in it to get it down under 12, and then sort out your air temps you probally havent achieved anything.

Im curious as to the reasons the tuner set the AFR's to 12.5, and then told you keep it to 14 psi to keep your engine safe. whats your ignition timing doing? was he finding a lot of detenation above 14?

who did the manufacturing of the plenum and exhaust manifold. you mentioned the price of them blew out a bit, have you found that you could have purchased a extreme manifold and a genuine greddy plenum cheeper then what you ended up paying?

its a great feeling to get your car back on the rd im not questioning that, but the dollars you have spent arn"t on that dyno sheet.

[bazr33]

the boost was set on 14psi as my engine is still internally standard, and didnt want to risk blowing it up after waiting 7 months from a previous workshop, which im not going into. As for how it feels on the road compared to previously, is chalk and cheese. Now it pulls way harder, accelerates way faster, and im happy with the result. Also another thing to take into consideration is we are dealing with a 13yr old engine. Im happy that the thing is still going.

majority of cost that i have spent went into labour, fixing shit up, dyno time and the manufacture of a new manifold.

The option originally for me before i started was to purchase a plazmaman plenum, 6boost manifold. But then knowing there was a workshop not far away that could do both, plus making the dump, turbo pipe, intercooler pipes and purchase of oil/water lines made sense to go there.

That didn't go as planned, and then I went to Signature Performance, which Mick had a fun time fixing it all up for me.

Im just glad yes the car is running and to me, and friends that have witnessed it, goes great. Yes on paper it is only an extra 20hp then previously, but it feels a way lot more then that on the road.

The AFR's and ignition timing i wouldnt have a clue on, but I was under the impression that 12.1- 12.5 was good.

I guess a way to prove how the car moves is taking the car down the quarter, which wont be too far away.

thankyou for ya feedback dangerman4, and i will seek some info on my AFR's. air temps, and ignition timing etc.

[The Mafia]

your atmospheric temp and intake tems are to far apart . AT-30 IT-60. need to get this closer together to get a proper dyno result. these figures can show a bit more power than what you actually have.

I was going to say something about this. When I did my 314rwkw run, they were 2 degrees apart. TO have an inlet temp of 60 degrees and airtemp of 30 degrees means the dyno operator was trying to fudge everything so you would get your wallet out faster to pay him. A common practice by at least 50% of dodgey operators out there.

the boost was set on 14psi as my engine is still internally standard, and didnt want to risk blowing it up after waiting 7 months from a previous workshop, which im not going into. As for how it feels on the road compared to previously, is chalk and cheese. Now it pulls way harder, accelerates way faster, and im happy with the result. Also another thing to take into consideration is we are dealing with a 13yr old engine. Im happy that the thing is still going.

I was running 17psi all day every day until I installed water meth and increased it to 21psi.

You'll find that a RB25 will take 16psi-17psi easily when tuned correctly. My suggestion is to push the boost to 17psi, and drop the AFR's to 12:1 for safety.

Also, tell your dyno operator to stop fudging the result and give you a real reading. Not trying to bag out your result - Its plain obvious that your dyno numbers mean nothing due to the IT and AT being so far out of whack. Who did the operator think he was fooling? Shits me when they do that.

On a hot stinking summers day, here in far North QLD, my Inlet temps were 37, and the air temps in the shed were 35. You can't tell me its hotter where you are, and your inlet temps magically doubled to 60 degrees. Go and kick that operator in the ass!

Edited February 11, 2008 by The Mafia

[discopotato03]

Different turbos , one is a GT3076R and the other is a GT3082R as mentioned .

A .