Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello :cheers:

Been reading alot of forum posts here and seems like a pretty knowledgeable group of people.

Anyway ive got a stock r33 gtr bar blitz pod filters, powerfc and a new mandril 3.5" custom exhaust being fitted this week and tuned(il post the dyno in a few weeks when i get back from work).

What i wanted to know was your opinions on engine mods and expense with labour time (as i dont have the most time to actually do them myself unless their minor) The engine in my car has done approx 100-150 thou km's, I want to get it to 450awkw.

Would it simply be more time/cost efficient to purchase a N1 long bare motor and use that as the base then turbos etc? If anyone has bought a new engine and done this i would like to talk to you if thats possible :down:

Edited by Zerrun
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183323-r33-gtr-mods-advice/
Share on other sites

I'm pushing 360rwkw @ 20psi with an N1 crate motor and HKS 2835's.

My tuner is hesitant to push it any more than this, as the N1 heads are still the same as the normal RB26's, and apparently experience valve float around 350rwkw.

Also, although they have a balanced crank and "semi-forged" (read: cast) pistons and rods, they have standard piston rings as far as we can tell, which would mean they wont like much more than 20psi.

Try 25-30K if you want it to last. Thats just the engine and thats conservative.

Upgrade all your coolers.

That's a shitload of power.

Even bolting stuff onto a new N1 bare engine will not give that reliably.

Then overhaul all the rest of the running gear.

Big bucks

i thought it would cost somewhere near there but i wouldnt like to spend more than 20k on the engine all up

you'll be miles over 20k if you include brakes, suspension, clutches, diffs, gearbox etc etc etc.

When i said 15-20, i was just talking engine bay

you'll be miles over 20k if you include brakes, suspension, clutches, diffs, gearbox etc etc etc.

When i said 15-20, i was just talking engine bay

450 kw with $15-20 K? what are you going to buy with 20k ? not even the parts , for that kind of power you will need a stroker kit say a 2.8 tomei HKS or something like that . The kit alone will be around the $8 k mark and all you get is a crank, pistons rings and rods, add bearings oil pump new main and rod bolts, water pump bore and hone and deck the block ( with a torque plate ) another $3 k , thats $11k in parts and you only have the bottom end. Spend another $6-7 k in the cyl head ( port and polish, new valve springs, retainers,head studs cams etc...) Your $20 k already spent and you havent bought any gaskets or paid for R+R from the car ( say $1.5 k)or sassemble the engine another $1.5 k .

What about fuel, injectors , pump , pressure reg mybe a fuel rail , another $2k? you will need some turbos to get this kind of power as well as exhaust manifold, dumps, front pipes, say another $5-6 k? what about cooling system , for this power you will need abigger radiator + oil cooler , another $1.5 k? you will have to upgrade the intercooler and the inrecooler pipes as well, another $1.5 k?

With all this power you will need a strong clutch , some jap twin plate ?? Another $2.5 k ?? With this kind of power the box will need upgarding too, It never ends , you may break a front diff or even a rear diff .

I forgot .... with this power how long before the 5u block cracks , not very long at all by my experience so it will be safer to start with a NISMO GT block ( RRR)or at the very least a N1 (24u ).

I forgot ... you will need a few gauges to monitor everything , say boost, coolant temp, oil temp, exhaust temp and maybe a wide band AFR, but thats only another $1.5 k , when you spend $40-50k , anothe couple is nothing ....

I forgot you will have to tune this as well , so you will need some computer as well as pay for dyno time and tuner.. another $2-$3K? Shit I lost count by now .......

Did you say brakes ???? Suspenssion? Wheels ?? Tyres???

If I was him I would leave it stock with maybe GTSS turbos ( or something like that) and enjoy it untill she blows up. But then again thats me , been there and done that many times before .....ah and I never had to pay for labour , a small saving there .....

As most of us know when you strart big power mods you NEVER finish and you need the bank as well

Edited by wrxhoon

Lets not go over the top here if he just wants a power figure.

Simon Natalotto over here did 638rwhp (472rwkw) and 131mph to back it up, with a 5u block, built 2.6L + t04z, standard box (albeit he's broken a few), and standard driveline (as far as I'm aware).

Basic's would be a well built std capacity motor (allow 13-15k), fuel system (2k), single turbo (4k), and a decent clutch (1.5k).

Thats assuming all the basic mods like exhaust, cooler, power fc, etc etc are already done.

Still a long way off from fitting it into a 20k budget including labour though...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. It's either "2 wires", or 1 wire, depending on how you look at it. It is the connection that ties the battery -ve to both the chassis and the engine. Every electron that goes in or out of the battery goes through those 2 small spots (on the inner guard and on the engine block). If those are not clean and tight, then shit starts to suffer. Yeah, but measure it again cold in the morning, after it has had hours to rest. You can't usefully test the charge state of a battery immediately after it has been running because the alternator puts a surface charge onto the plates that takes a while to soak in and balance out. It will always read higher, and potentially look properly healthy, when fresh off of charge. But hours later it can look a lot less healthy. It's also worth measuring the battery voltage while cranking, although this can be difficult with a typical DMM because the screem update rate is so slow on most of them. An analogue voltmeter is actually a better tool for that. If the voltage drops too far while cranking, it is a sign of a poor battery. Although I don't think we're necessarily looking for a weak battery here - just wanting to exclude it.
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/15ZMn5oXtc/ Updated Event (so its not private and can be shared easier)  Attempting to coordinate a big push of Stagea's to this years GTR Festival. Great event last year and hoping for the same this year.  Discounted tickets 20% off for their various tickets until the 3rd of Feb Monday. Drags, show and shine etc.  I've emailed them to ask to set a location aside for the Stageas for the show and shine - they are happy to do so if we can get them numbers, I'm happy to keep track of that. Entering as Nismo category.  I'll be road tripping up from Melbourne, would be cool to convey if people are interested, maybe there is SAU convoys from each capital? If you have ideas about that let me know.  https://gtrfestival.com.au  
    • Does have series 2 airbag steering wheel and passenger side airbag also.
    • Do I have a series 2 or has someone spent money to have a series 1/1.5 look like a series 2? Everything I have read says the series 2 came out in 1996. I have a car manufactured in December 1995. The exterior, engine and interior are all series 2 other than the dash facia is series 1. Paint code is also kr4 that I believe is only available on a series 2. I have a VX Vehicle History Report and it says Grade: GTS25T TYPE M2 Manufacture date: 1995-12 Make: NISSAN Model: SKYLINE Body: E-ECR33 Grade: GTS25T TYPE M2 Engine: RB25DET Drive: 2WD Transmission: F5
    • I went to Repco to get them to test the battery using their tester (not a volt meter), alternator shows 14.3v when running, and when the car was off after the it was on full load I think it was 12.6v but the guy said it was all good. Terminals are all clean, no corrosion. Though I coulda sworn when I tightened up my alternator belt the car idles a bit higher and the steering wheel shakes a bit until it's warmed up. I wanted to confirm for the earth cable/s, are you referring to the 2 wires that are bolted onto the frame rail under the battery? I might be overthinking this a bit.
×
×
  • Create New...