Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I've got a 98' GT R34 and recently I've been getting the 'check engine light' coming on. When this appears car loses power so I have to pull over and turn off the car for about 20secs and turn it back on. I had the ECU checked and it was error 21: Ignition Signal Circuit. Anybody have any ideas what could possibly be wrong or how to fix this? Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183426-r34-problem-ignition-signal-circuit/
Share on other sites

taking a wild guess but mabye faulty ignition switch?? best try going down to a nissan dealership to get a quote on fixing it, if its a cheap thing they'll do it easy for you not to expencive or if its major they'll let you know what needs to be done, they shouldn't charge you for the quote at most they might charge you $50 1/2 hour labour for it, then you can either fix it yourself or get it done elsewhere.

Sorry i can't help anymore

I had the same error come up after my 100K service was done a couple of months ago. Now, I knew the coilpacks needed doing and the workshop changed the spark plugs (part of 100K service) and nothing else in the ignition circuit of the car.

So I changed the coilpacks myself and the error has gone. Thats what fixed my error so if you know that one part of your ignition circuit needs changing, start there. It's not that hard.

dont be so fooled... i changed coils and did nothing.. it was the igniter unit.. a coil wont bring up an error code on the computer.. The igniter unit will.. its a module. the coil isnt.. its just a coil.. its like a failing speaker... the unit wont tell u the speaker died, but if theres a cd error it will :P

dont be so fooled... i changed coils and did nothing.. it was the igniter unit.. a coil wont bring up an error code on the computer.. The igniter unit will.. its a module. the coil isnt.. its just a coil.. its like a failing speaker... the unit wont tell u the speaker died, but if theres a cd error it will :whistling:

Hmmm, thats a possibility, how much did you pay for your igniter unit and where about's in Melb did you get it?

you might find for an r34 its gonna be a different price.

and i agree with bumblebee as well when i was having trouble with my coilpacks , i had an error that kept coming up "crank angle sensor". so i got a new one..............however it ended up being a coilpack in the end, it was showing a greater heat resistance than the others

i had 3 coilpacks shite themselves on me and after the 3rd one i got the splitfires............very worth it

dont be so fooled... i changed coils and did nothing.. it was the igniter unit.. a coil wont bring up an error code on the computer.. The igniter unit will.. its a module. the coil isnt.. its just a coil.. its like a failing speaker... the unit wont tell u the speaker died, but if theres a cd error it will :whistling:

All well and good but the R34 doesn't have an ignitor, it's built into the coilpacks. Hence why the coilpacks always shit themselves. The CAS error would be linked to the coil packs, they're all part of the same sub-system so would be throwing wild faults, you sometimes get an error for the secondary throttle and TCS system.

Fix the packs, get splitfires and all the issues will be solved.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...