Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 682
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  belo said:
awsome result dude..

you definately heading out on wednesday? would love to see this run

all the best

Wednesday has been canned due to the weather...Wednesday next week looks the goods now.

  180bfj20det said:
What is the weight of the car when you go to the track?

Cheers

the last time we raced it weighed 1474kg...without the 106kg driver...so a 398KW GTR to go 10.3 sec's weighing 1580kg with a synchro box is a fair achievement.

we have stripped some weight out of it since so it will be interesting to put it on the scales at the track next week.

unfortunately i still weigh over 100kg

  Yawn said:
^Hahaha

What does twoogle mean anyway?

it means nothing...

our number plate reads TWO.06L...meaning two point six litre.

some people when making up custom plates use a 6 as a G

my mate one day was looking at the plate and asked us "what does twoogl mean"?

we had a laugh and explained to him that it meant 2.6litre...and that the 6 was not meant to be a G but actually a 6...

he said nah stuff it im now gonna call it "twoogle"

this name stuck and has grown to even been included in the drag records lists and in magazine articles

its weird how some nicknames evolve and stick

  DiRTgarage said:
the last time we raced it weighed 1474kg...without the 106kg driver...so a 398KW GTR to go 10.3 sec's weighing 1580kg with a synchro box is a fair achievement.

we have stripped some weight out of it since so it will be interesting to put it on the scales at the track next week.

unfortunately i still weigh over 100kg

lol time to start running the 1\4 mile instead?

Nice figures anyway, Got any videos of the dyno runs or passes on the strip?

  B-Man said:
Good luck with Paul - great setup !

I've just got the Cosmo back from getting a few things fixed - so might even go out tomorrow night !

Thanks mate...very keen to look over your creation...well done and very fresh to see somethingout of left field.

Dont be too keen for tomm. night ...its forecast to rain.

we have put off running ours till next wednesday.

wow. thats a very impresive power and torque figure. how does it drive off boost? much loss dow low compared with the old setup?

oh pretty please can you post up a comparison dyno graph of your old setup and this one?

ps. after i find a gearbox (smashed inputrshaft)its valvetrain im doing next. 1.5bar and 8.3k on stock springs isnt probably very smart of me...

  DiRTgarage said:
post-23582-1188817170_thumb.jpgpost-23582-1188817114_thumb.jpgsorry having a bit of trouble operationg our new HP all-in-one

looks good :yes:

the sweet spot seems to be just on 4500rpm or 130km/h

looks like it comes on like a freight train

hope all is well and the mrs's is well

  paulr33 said:
looks good :yes:

the sweet spot seems to be just on 4500rpm or 130km/h

looks like it comes on like a freight train

hope all is well and the mrs's is well

yeah max torque is @ 4500rpm but look at the overall torque spread from 4000-9500 its unbelieveable on the road.

Stace is good and the baby should be here in the next few weeks

Dave a comparison graph will be available next week.

  N1GTR said:
Holy shit. (Says a big single owner)

Paul, you are nuts :P

What gearbox have you got in there?

hehe she's pretty mad (you wont see a torque curve like that with your big single)

ive love to give you a drive steve but that would be unfair to your underwear...lol

its an OS Giken 5 speed.

  Cerbera said:
ill bite haha

not a lot in it here

post-3878-1133516522.jpg

awesome work...but to be fair...i was just giving steve a little niggle

wait till mines tuned and running some decent boost and then ill go the dyno "pepsi challenge" with ya.

what is your set-up?

main point that was being made in the 1st post was that so many people think to make this sort of power, a big single turbo is the answer...and its just not so. Even low-mount twins can deliver if set-up correctly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You have found the problem. The wire from the switch to the HB is shorted to earth. Now you have to physically find it and replace it. It won't be the switch, although following the steps above (and yes, where you ask, that is the light switch on the RHS of the binnacle) will rule it out for sure. Or not, if perhaps the switch has melted. But there's no route to earth inside the switch, so I can't see how it would.
    • I did read your post, a few times actually.    Done. Followed this step. [Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.]   Did this partially.. now that im reading this over, i only unplugged the LED lights. [Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches.] When you are talking about the switch, you're talking about the knob thing on the right side in the drivers seat right? If so, i need to take that apart?  [Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch.] At this point are you referring to the connector by the headlights?  [If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.] Did this. I can confirm that the LED lights aren't the issue [Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.]
    • Hey was wondering if you ended up installing the R33 GTR speed sensor - I found one too and wanted to confirm it's a direct swap into the R34 6 speed?
    • After 23 years of owning a Skyline, finally had the latch go.  Followed this guide,  works like a dream again. Great Guide 👍
    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
×
×
  • Create New...