Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 682
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

<br />The Shirt man just needs to work on the launch\'s more. a year off the track and then back to it with a completly different setup will do this too you.<br />
<br /><br /><br />

It\'s more of the that fact that he needs to simplify what he needs to do to launch, so he doesn\'t have to call NASA every time he wants to take off. I believe he is working on getting the setup done for this now.

NASA? lol he only has one switch on the steering wheel. its not rocket science. Mark set it up to be as simple as possible. he needs to work on the clutch when taking off he was saying.

he was also talking about using the line locker to load up the transmission and drive train to help get off the line at the 2nd staging lights . So that\\\'s 2 buttons (ok one is being moved to work off the clutch pedal) plus having to worry about the tree at the same time while all this is going on. Pretty complicated if you ask me, only gets better with practice.

By the way, you need to change your signature now that you have run a 11.1. Well done on that

Edited by Deano45
he was also talking about using the line locker to load up the transmission and drive train to help get off the line at the 2nd staging lights . So that\\\'s 2 buttons (ok one is being moved to work off the clutch pedal) plus having to worry about the tree at the same time while all this is going on. Pretty complicated if you ask me, only gets better with practice.

By the way, you need to change your signature now that you have run a 11.1. Well done on that

im going to run the line lock and anti-lag off the 1 button...simpler set-up

light the top light...press the brake...push the button...inch the car into stage dragging the front wheels in with the driveline loaded up...light the bottom light...floor the accel...slip the clutch...let it go on the 2nd yellow...hang on to it the best i can...avoid the walls and car in the other lane.

Due to the fact we were unable to get the power to the track it ran 10.00 @ 144

the 60' was a very slow 1.8...4/10's slower than my best...4/10's in the 60 is 8/10ths at the end of the track so it was a 9.20 car with that power.

its a really hard car to drive now...Dave (T04GTR) said he was surprised how difficult it actually was to get the car down the track. Racing a car of this calibre is not as easy as some may think, there is a very fine line between bogging the launch, blazing the tyres, keeping it off the walls and a clean quick pass. I tip my hat to guys who have ran sub 9.50's in a GTR on radials as its not childs play.

Being part of the Godzilla Motorsport team now means i have access to one of the best teams in the world at car set-up. Mark Jacobsen knows exactly what the car now needs to perform and we will be making some changes to the car, setting it up to launch in the same manner as his 7 second car. A lot of these set-up changes involve keeping the driveline loaded prior to launch and keeping the turbo on boost as the clutch locks up. Scott Kuhner from Insight Motorsports has also joined the team and his knowledge has also been well recieved.

Ive got 39 passes under my belt now so im getting more and more experience with how this stuff is done. To run sub 10's on my 24th pass was a massive achievement...to run sub 9's on twice as many passes would be incredible.

What's this going to do to driveline wear and tear?

hey Paul how have u got the line locker hooked up, is it holding on the front brakes or deactivating the back brakes? i am trying to sort one for my car i have the solenoid etc but the front brakes have 2 individual lines (one for each side) coming from the master and im trying to work out how others are doing it. I dont want to have to hold the brake pedal on i want it holding the fronts on for me, but wondering if Teeing both front lines into the solenoid and then dividing the lines after solenoid is gonna work without any problems.

What's this going to do to driveline wear and tear?

its better for the driveline as it eliminates shock loading the driveline...its murder on the clutch though.

Brad i run an ABS master cylinder which has only 1 feed to the front brake hydraulic circuit...you run this line to the locker solinoid and then tee the other side of the soliniod to each of the front brake calipers.

  • 1 month later...

From the godzilla motorsport site:

Vi-Pec Tuned V88 Makes 807hp.

15-03-2009

Paul Diemer's "Twoogle" GT-R running a new T51R turbo setup and Vi-Pec V88 ECU was tuned by Godzilla Motorsport prior to the recent Compak Attack in Sydney and made an impressive 807hp at the wheels. This is one of the first Vi-Pec ECUs to be utilised on a high power drag setup and Mark was impressed with both the features and ease of use, comparing it to the Motec M600 ECU used on his own drag car.

The next step for Godzilla Motorsport: a Vi-Pec V88 on their own methanol breathing 7 second drag car.

807whp nice work paul. Wonder what that would be at the hubs? :P

Edited by Ryan1200
  • 2 months later...

The car is being looked at in regards to anti-lag set-up, clutch air gap (need more travel with the slave), tune is being tweaked for more power etc.

Hope to get it off the line more consistently and be competitive.

Will be track testing prior to event.

Ill keep you posted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
    • Discover the best Halal food near you with Maharajaonline.com.au. Our delicious selection of Halal dishes will satisfy your cravings and make you feel like royalty. Try us today and experience the difference!   halal food near me
×
×
  • Create New...