Your Stereo

[_Ryan_]

Hey all

i have a system sitting here waiting to go in from my last car, now i was wondering...

Who has subs, and who doesnt.

I dont want to kill my boot space, or my ears, would a sub be a bit much when not in a sealed boot)obviously tuning plays a large part) or would i be better off trying to get 6x9's into the rear door and not having to worry about taking a sub in/out as needed...

Who has 6x9's in their rear doors?

and how did you go about fitting them?

-Ryan

Edited September 3, 2007 by 180sx_luva

[Stinky Rooster]

I wouldn't recommend putting any speakers in the rear door. I did that in my old foulcoon and it kept destroying the struts (like the stagea tailgate isn't heavy enough?) Also, as previously mentioned, if they aren't secured or you get hit hard enough from behind they would make some nasty in-car projectiles.

Tuned port enclosures are the way to go for wagons, just get the box and port properly designed and your ears will love you for it.

[MyStag260]

I am in the middle of doing an install in my 260RS putting 3 way boston Pros in the front, 6.5" bass drivers in the back doors and a 12" Alpine Type R sub in a removable box thats going in the boot. Powered by 3 V12 alpine Amps. I know it all seems like an awful lot of stuff but i am making some very subtle door pods to hold the extra 4" mid speaker. The rears are in factory locals, the 2 big amps are under the seat and the stock carpet covers the edges so quite unnoticable, the small amp is in the back LHS where there is usually a stacker. Sub box will be totally removable and reversable, so i can have the sub facing forwards shooting into the seats so i can stack stuff up behind it or facing rearwards in a bit of a showin posi.

6x9s are never going to give you the richness that a sub will give. There are some subs out there these days like the rockford 8" that are really quite small you could build a small box on either side of the car between the seats and the struts. 2 small 8"s would crank! mount an amp under each seat to power your speakers and subs and it would be a top notch system.

just my 5c

Cheers

[STAG250]

I had an infinity kappa 12 inch sub in my stag S1 25x and 4 infinity kappa 6 inches plus alpine 400 watt amp and it worked fine although it got in the way and I could do without it occasionally. I made sure it was well secured by three straps and when I was rear ended it stayed firm.

[captinsane]

try going to a good component system in the front with a good amp first (i got a good set of eclipse 3way components) and i have never looked back. custom enclosures for the 4" mid drivers - 6.5" in the stock door space with spacers to adjust position, 1.5" tweeters up above the window for something different. Really good SQ - quite a decent amount of base just needs an amp to get it to perform to it's best and then i'll think about a sub in the rear.

I like the fact that my blow up double bed fits perfectly though - and a sub will just get in the way

[_Ryan_]

has anyone managed to fit 6x9's in the rear?

[Tangles]

Ive got 6x9s 3-way 240w Pioneer speakers in the front doors, but we disconnected the factory tweeters

Rear doors have 180w 6" round speakers (forget the brand)

in the Boot I have a Clarion amp mated to a box which houses the Clarion 10" sub, installed passenger side between wheel-well and wagon door, is strapped down but can easily be taken out with a couple of "clicks"

6-stacker Clarion cd is under the front passenger seat and Clarion tape headunit in normal spot.

Going to junk the 6stack and headunit soon for a USB headunit only

sound in the stagea rocks !! love that BASS

[petrolfix]

I wouldn't recommend putting any speakers in the rear door. I did that in my old foulcoon and it kept destroying the struts (like the stagea tailgate isn't heavy enough?) Also, as previously mentioned, if they aren't secured or you get hit hard enough from behind they would make some nasty in-car projectiles.

Tuned port enclosures are the way to go for wagons, just get the box and port properly designed and your ears will love you for it.

dale you keep refering to the struts in the rear door and if we add weight they will colapse. the rear struts are just a strut. you can buy them at newmerous stores like ovesco (they specialise in trade tool box's) the struts are rated in newton meteres (NM). this is normally written on the strut itself. they all so come any lenth you need they can just order them for you. so lets say a standrd one is 200NM you can work out the weight of the origonal door add what you want to the rear door then work out what rate stut you need to replace it. somewhere close is normally good enough.

eg. lets say the current struts push 60kg of door then we add 20kg to the weght of the door

200 ./. 60 = 0.3

0.3 x 80 = 24 = 240nm strut required for the extra weight.

so 250NM to 300 NM strut will sufice to easy

and they arent expensive say $35 - $100 each.

[momo]

I have a sub that looks like an amp, it does act like a speaker and gives base to the whole car (not like those drivers you can get) not sure how it works yet but definitely worth looking into. Its active, and with frequency/crossover controls etc.

Works very well.

Edited September 6, 2007 by momo

[Stinky Rooster]

dale you keep refering to the struts in the rear door and if we add weight they will colapse. the rear struts are just a strut. you can buy them at newmerous stores like ovesco (they specialise in trade tool box's) the struts are rated in newton meteres (NM). this is normally written on the strut itself. they all so come any lenth you need they can just order them for you. so lets say a standrd one is 200NM you can work out the weight of the origonal door add what you want to the rear door then work out what rate stut you need to replace it. somewhere close is normally good enough.

eg. lets say the current struts push 60kg of door then we add 20kg to the weght of the door

200 ./. 60 = 0.3

0.3 x 80 = 24 = 240nm strut required for the extra weight.

so 250NM to 300 NM strut will sufice to easy

and they arent expensive say $35 - $100 each.

Point taken I didn't think they would collapse but after wearing out 6 different sets in my foulcoon wagon its something I can heartily recommend NOT doing. I tried getting heavier ones and kept getting told that was all that was available.

still wouldn't want speakers hitting me in the back of my head 1.5 seconds after being rear ended though.....

[MyStag260]

i found a few more cents in my pocket so i thought i'd throw it in.

DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE THE POWER OF SOUND DEADENING!!! (imaginary vader)

Even if you buy a smallish dyanmat kit and do just the front doors you will notice a massive difference in mid bass clarity. Speakers work on cancelation and reflection. All the crap that is in a standard door like METAL, holes, glass all these things cause terrible refelction of mid bass, so instead of the midbas punching out into the cabin it is been mashed in the metal doors, when have you ever seen a a speaker box made of metal that didn't have some kind of cushening or matting in it? Even wood that is far softer than metal still reflects sound.

If you already have speakers in your front doors, pic a track that has a good amount of mid bass, (drums, live band situations have the best, also if your a techno freak like me infected mushroom are a midbass systems dream!) Sit in your car and have a good listen, i mean listen to the track 2 or 3 times. Then tear your doors apart dynamat the outside skin (the bit that has paint on the other side) and then the inside skin (after removing leatherlook door trim you will see it) Be sure to cover up all the access holes in the outside door trip. Replace all equipment and BOOM instant midbass lift, play the same song again and trust me you will notice the difference.

+ The sound deadening also cuts down road noises/exhaust noise. leaving your cabin reserved for your music and ur ears

okay so that was more like $8 worth but yeh...

catch

[petrolfix]

i found a few more cents in my pocket so i thought i'd throw it in.

DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE THE POWER OF SOUND DEADENING!!! (imaginary vader)

Even if you buy a smallish dyanmat kit and do just the front doors you will notice a massive difference in mid bass clarity. Speakers work on cancelation and reflection. All the crap that is in a standard door like METAL, holes, glass all these things cause terrible refelction of mid bass, so instead of the midbas punching out into the cabin it is been mashed in the metal doors, when have you ever seen a a speaker box made of metal that didn't have some kind of cushening or matting in it? Even wood that is far softer than metal still reflects sound.

If you already have speakers in your front doors, pic a track that has a good amount of mid bass, (drums, live band situations have the best, also if your a techno freak like me infected mushroom are a midbass systems dream!) Sit in your car and have a good listen, i mean listen to the track 2 or 3 times. Then tear your doors apart dynamat the outside skin (the bit that has paint on the other side) and then the inside skin (after removing leatherlook door trim you will see it) Be sure to cover up all the access holes in the outside door trip. Replace all equipment and BOOM instant midbass lift, play the same song again and trust me you will notice the difference.

+ The sound deadening also cuts down road noises/exhaust noise. leaving your cabin reserved for your music and ur ears

okay so that was more like $8 worth but yeh...

catch

isn't there all feady enough sound deading in the door. subs do drown out the mid system but for the little extra sound improvemnt the sound deading gives compared to how much it wighes i don't think it's really worth the extra fuel for lugging it around. but if all your interested in is top quality sound be my guest it whould be well worth the effort.

sorry for cramping your $8 worth just add ing on 20c

[petrolfix]

Point taken I didn't think they would collapse but after wearing out 6 different sets in my foulcoon wagon its something I can heartily recommend NOT doing. I tried getting heavier ones and kept getting told that was all that was available.

still wouldn't want speakers hitting me in the back of my head 1.5 seconds after being rear ended though.....

point taken a speaker in the back of the head isn't good. make shure what ever you do mount it securlly i was in a rescent accident in the stag. got to say very good on saftey. i had subs in the back and they brokethe tie down points didnit move to far though

[wolverine]

sound deadening is 100% worth it.

4-5kg is hardly going to tip your fuel economy over the edge. excepting the door trim there is almost no other deadening in the doors.

[MyStag260]

It does depend how you have your system setup though... i am running a 3 way system now so all the mid bass is going to be pumped to the 6.5" driver. The tweet and 4" speaker will do the highs perfectly. With sound deadening you need to look at it as not just making your system sound better it keeps out road noise aswell, my gf is always going on about how loud the exhaust is... and shes right it is loud. So asside from changing the exhaust sound deadening is the perfect option. Take for instance a 1970s corolla, the doors are tinny and rattle, then hop into a late model BMW M3. Its not as if the Beamer uses some kind of speacial metal that makes the cabin quiter its all to do with sound deadening, of course the thickness and build quality have an effect as well.

In regards to weight i bought the bulk pack which weighs 10kgs but that will do most of the interior of the car... and if you consider the weight of a person being anywhere from 50kgs - 100kgs having a 10kg extra really isn't going to make a massive difference.

[petrolfix]

didn't relise that that it wasn't so little weight. i pulled the stock sounddeading from my silvia weighed in at 45kg and my mates sprinter's sounddeading weighed in at 85kg.

both of these are substancial ammounts.

[MyStag260]

Thats usually because the standard sound deadenin is just a cheap recycled material stuff the Dynamat and other similars are designed specifically with car audio in mind, its fantastic stuff

anyway enough about that... i would like to know more about other peoples Stagea install jobs if anyone has some input id be interested Cheers

[loymclure]

i have 2 Audiobahn dual coil 600 watt rms subs powered by a kenwould 1000 watter and 4 Pioneer 6"s one in each door powerd by a kenwood 500 watter. its still not loud enough i have 2 JVC 6X9's that need to go in but im unsure where to put them, any ideas? As it sits now my 2 subs are boxed seperately and i can move each off to the side if i need my boot space wich is good.

[joe26f]

I have pioneer 6" 3 ways in the rear doors, and two pioneer open air subs and a Alpine V12 amp from terminal's car in the custom box he made. i'll get some pics up soon