Preparing For A Turbo Install On R33

[NYTSKY]

This weekend im planning on installing my highflowed turbo with 0P6 rear housing.

While inspecting the turbo and all the fittings that came with it,i noticed that the water banjos that were supplied looked to be 19mm.

These fit into the new Garrett cartridge.

The stock ones to my understanding are 24mm.

So how am i going to get the 24mm banjo head to fit around the 17mm banjo bolt for the new cartridge?

Also the new banjo heads have a barb like thread (like t-pieces for vacuum lines)

Has anyone come across this before?

The turbo was highflowed by Precision turbos.

[wizard2k]

i think u needed to supply them the lines to modify aswell maybe for this problem

correct me if im wrong guys

[Dale FZ1]

how am i going to get the 24mm banjo head to fit around the 17mm banjo bolt for the new cartridge?

Also the new banjo heads have a barb like thread (like t-pieces for vacuum lines)

Has anyone come across this before?

You need the services of a hose specialist. Enzed, Pirtek or whoever suits you best.

If you've used a Garrett cartridge into stock housings this is fairly normal. The OE fittings do not fit the Garrett cartridge, and you basically have to get them to do a little work to make it all come together. No big job actually, and something they can (and should) come and do on-site.

There are some threads with photos available. Search under my name, and from memory Ol Mate also posted something regarding adapting oil/water lines in the past month, when there was a query about what people believed constituted a "bolt on" turbo upgrade.

And yes, there are fittings that have barbed ends. I have a set still sitting in my shed that were not used, in preference to banjos that took braided line.

cheers

[NYTSKY]

OK after a hard day of thinking and calling a few places this is what ive come up with.

The Garrett ball bearing cartridge has different banjo sizes to the stock cartridge,so ill either need to get braided lines made to fit the new size banjo(expensive) or cut the stock banjo off the water lines (turbo end) and get a length of braided hose to clamp to the lines then clamp to the new banjo.Will work,but a little dodgey.This will also save me taking the lines off themselves.

Ive managed to get another set of lines off a friend (oil and water) should i get pirtek to modify the lines by fitting the new banjo on?

They would have to make sure they get new angle of the new banjo facing the exact way otherwise it wont go on to the turbo properly.

[NYTSKY]

Also which water line is which:

1) this water line has two banjos on it?

2) this water line has one banjo on it?

Im assuming the water line with one banjo in the water feed??

[NYTSKY]

OK i have the turbo off the car (fun 3-4hrs)

I went to pirtek and got some braided lines made to suit the factory lines.

The new banjo bolt for the stock oil inlet line is.5mm smaller than stock,i think ill get away with keeping the oil inlet line as is,the washers should prevent any leaks fingers crossed.

Oh and i managed to snap the top 2 exhaust flange bolts grrrrr luckily im not using that turbo anymore.Apart from the running around getting some new bolts and a couple of spanners its going ok(for now).

The hard part will be removing the water line that runs around the back of the block.

If anyone can give me some advice in removing it will be appreciated.

From what i can see ill need to remove the coil cover and get my hand down there.But i think putting the new line on will be a PAIN.

[Cubes]

Have you incorporated an oil restrictor in to the braided line?

If you take note of the std setup Nissan have used a restrictor at the block fitting and a restrictor at the turbo.

The new garrett turbo's have the restrictor built in to the turbo however you are still required to fit another restrictor upstream.

When I fitted my turbo I had pirtek use the existing banjo's that fit to the block and solder new bundy tube to it. And was cheap as chips. ~$45 per line so $135 for all 3 lines. Cheap as chips and factory like.

[Dale FZ1]

You could have saved yourself a lot of running around by getting a mobile unit to come on-site. Best of all they will get the length and set of the lines correct. The risk of having the custom lines chafing or cracking from stress or vibration

Leave the steel water line in place. Have it cut somewhere around where it emerges on the LHS rear of the head/block, and get the hose man to attach a fitting to it. Then have him make up a suitable line that marries up to the fitting and takes a banjo to fit onto the cartridge.

A simple search could have revealed pics of the very job you want to do. That water line is virtually impossible to otherwise get to, and best accessed either when the engine is out of the car, or gearbox out to change a clutch.

The hard part will be removing the water line that runs around the back of the block.

If anyone can give me some advice in removing it will be appreciated.

From what i can see ill need to remove the coil cover and get my hand down there.But i think putting the new line on will be a PAIN.

[NYTSKY]

OK guys, i got to the water line by removing the LHS rocker cover,it was right there.Pulled it off and attached my new line.

Bolted everything back together last night,filled her up will oil and coolant and gave her a few kicks over to get some oil around the motor.

I started it let it run for a few mins then incounted an oil leak(oil inlet to turbo).As it was 1am i deceided to leave it till the morning.

OK this morning i went out and bought a 15mm socket and 3/8 ball joiner and tightened up the banjo bolt as much as room would allow.

Started it up and the oil leak was fixed.As usual alot of smoke was coming from oil covered parts as the motor and turbo warmed up.

After 10 mins idling the smoke was gone but the PFC was recording a 94 deg in the motor so shut it off.

Probably didnt let the coolant flow through the motor long enough before i put the radiator cap on.

Keep you posted,

[NYTSKY]

OK guys i bled the cooling system properly and temps are 78-80 as normal.

Took the car for a little drive around the block and the new turbo sounds awesome.

Laggier that stock thats for sure.Didnt want to boost it or rev it too hard before i get the tune done,so all and all it went ok.

[MANWHORE]

Good to hear dave. Watch that coolant mate. What I normally do when bleeding it, is with the car off, I jack the front right up, and keep filling it until it comes out of the bleed nipple.

Keep the level in the overflow correct, and after a drive, it'll suck more water in, if there's a little bit of air.

Some people like to do it with the car on, but I don't like it - it makes a mess.

[MANWHORE]

ps: taking the rocker cover off is crazy just for the water line. haha

[NYTSKY]

hey Chris finally after all this time the new turbo is in.

There is a stock r33 turbo here for you,suprisingly no shaft play

[NYTSKY]

Ive been driving around with this new turbo for a few days now and ive just been babying it around not really boosting it over 2psi.

I wanted to make sure my boost controller was working properly so i gave the accel a half throttle stab just to bring the boost up to 8psi(set boost) but it shot up to 10.4psi(would have gone way more if i had not let off)

So i turned the boost controller off and gave the accel another half throttle stab and still the boost shot up past the waste gate spring set boost level and still would have went more if i had not let off the gas.

Im pretty sure all my vacuum lines are set back to the way they were before the turbo install.

But i was thinking if the new (old) actuator had a higher spring in it would the boost controller not be able to control the boost until it hit this level??

[NYTSKY]

Im pretty sure all my vacuum lines are set back to the way they were before the turbo install.

But i was thinking if the new (old) actuator had a higher spring in it would the boost controller not be able to control the boost until it hit this level??

Answered my question with the search button.If the actuator spring is set for one bar,the boost controller wont control it till it hits one bar.

Meaning i cant select a lower boost setting than one bar.

i guess ill have to find out if this actuator has been modified.