Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey u goin guys planning on takin my skyline back 2 calder this fridai nite went last time with 3"inch turbo back and front mount air filter ( no heat shield or cold air induction) and a boost controller not EBC ran a 14.3 at 100.2 MPH now i dont know if thats shit or decent or wat for a r33 series 2 was hittin around 9-10psi , now ive got a greddy profec B spec II in and a full 90mm cold air innduction ran should i b looking for better times? if so roughly wat with decent take off and gear changes

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183800-14-mile-return/
Share on other sites

what was your 60' time?

aroun 2.0 is good, 2.2 is average and can be improved upon.

without sounding slack, 14.3 is not a good time.

9-10 psi in a stock ECU'd r33 means it would be running pretty rich and on the edge of misfiring and carrying on.

cheapest way to get better times (apart from practice) is a tune with an SAFC to fix the air:fuel mixtures.

obviously some street legal drag radials.

then practice away.

maybe list any other mods.

what:

wheels and tyres and what size are they

what tyre pressure?

clutch

do you know what power it is making?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183800-14-mile-return/#findComment-3328903
Share on other sites

Hmm thinkn runnin back 2 standard boost on the nite , dunn have a clue power havnt had it tuned or dyno'd standard 16"inch wheels and standard clutch...like it hits around 7 then the boost slowly creeps up 2 around 9 on higher revs

2.303 60"

tyre pressure was around 28 psi for the nite from memory

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183800-14-mile-return/#findComment-3328912
Share on other sites

Hey u goin guys planning on takin my skyline back 2 calder this fridai nite went last time with 3"inch turbo back and front mount air filter ( no heat shield or cold air induction) and a boost controller not EBC ran a 14.3 at 100.2 MPH now i dont know if thats shit or decent or wat for a r33 series 2 was hittin around 9-10psi , now ive got a greddy profec B spec II in and a full 90mm cold air innduction ran should i b looking for better times? if so roughly wat with decent take off and gear changes

just to give you a rough idea, my younger bro has a r33 gts-t series 1.5, stock turbo and engine, stock ecu (no SAFC), boost at 12psi, full exhaust, FMIC and a pod, pulled a 13.3 with a 2.0 60 foot time.

You should easily crack a high 13 with you mods if you launch it right and drive it hard.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183800-14-mile-return/#findComment-3329349
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • More photos are up, and the price has been dropped to $16,000. It's just had a service and a new 12V battery, too.
    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
×
×
  • Create New...