Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im having fun with this car.. just ordered a TD05 and PFC and now more problems happen..

driving along(car is a Type M R32 GTST btw), and was at the lights.. in first, took off normally, jumped into second and the car started jumping. didnt hear any crunching or weird noises from box/clutch, more like it was ECU?

basically, its like ive lost all boost!

i would get to 2500-3500 before the car would jump and idle weird... normal idle went from 700 to about 1300rpm... i would have to go from first to second, and stay below 2500rpm to be able to drive it back..

any ideas what this could be? :S i want this fixed before GOR!!

its a standard Type M R32 manual gearbox, wtih nismo short shifter.. thats it... only other mod ive done recently was front mount but i checked the piping and it all seems alright?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183807-not-again/
Share on other sites

Check under the oil cap to see if the oil is milky.

Also check the water in the radiator to see if its oily.

Check the dipstick also, see how the oil level is, and how good the oil looks.

Is it over heating at all?

Edited by abu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183807-not-again/#findComment-3329701
Share on other sites

the first set of issues sounds just like AFM... could be dirty or need resoldering. if you have someone with the same one, borrow to test, else search the forum for +solder +AFM. i just did mine its not hard.

bubbles in the radiator liquid could just be some air escaping the system.. did you replace your coolant recently ? does the car lose water ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183807-not-again/#findComment-3329771
Share on other sites

Maybe fuel pump? This happened in my r33 and it was the fuel pump.

Don't think a dying fuel pump will make too much variance on idle. In my past experience a dying fuel pump makes the car slightly hard to start, hesitates in the rev range and also pings if its turbo.

The more you think about it, the more it sounds like an AFM issue.

Abu

Edited by abu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183807-not-again/#findComment-3330486
Share on other sites

time to have a little play right now.. i hope it is AFM... we are going to clean the air flow metre, and check all hoses and piping... if its a dodgy afm, no loss, im getting a Z32 :P ive been persuaded that its air flow metre/piping so ill see how it goes and get back to you :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183807-not-again/#findComment-3331039
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

hey, i had the same problem with my r33 s2,

after i just got my apexi neo afc fitted, 2 days after it did the same thing as u described!!!

i had to reset the afc to drive..and it was fine..

went to the tuners 2 days later, found out my 02 sensor was dying, or dead already..lol

needed a new one..and has bein fine ever since...

so try disconnecting the 02 sensor..

and c if it makes a difference..

but i think my afm is on its way out having trouble starting wen cold..bein cold latly for the last 2 days, and my car struggles only wen very cold..i think either to do wit my afm, or im to lean for idle..lol

but i cleaned my acc valve the other week..look lik brand new inside..and idle has bein really really good..

i cleaned my afm, wit electical contact cleaner,looks cleaner

and i cleaned my acc valve wit carby cleaner..and keep on wiping in it! takes a while..but makes a hell of a diff.!!

so try doing these, and check ur o2 sensor too...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183807-not-again/#findComment-3442846
Share on other sites

just checked the radiator while car was on (car now sits there and idles from 700, and slowly SLOWLY VERY SLOWLY goes up and sits on 2000rpm), and there are bubbles?

gasket? :P

This exact same thing happened to me on sunday night. I had just put a 3" cat back on and was going for a spin (my pc had just broken to zzz)and the car started stalling and playing up so i pulled over and fiddled with the AFM wires until the idle returned to normal (i had just put on pod filters) i also had what looked like froth coming out of the radiator (as opposed to bubbles) but the car wasn't overheating and was dead on center

Only problem with mine is now it's making a noise (not overly loud, probably about as loud as the injectors but a bit less harsh), screw driver indicates it's coming from the head, so idk what happened but i'm guessing when the AFM frigged up it over stressed something and something broke or was badly worn (it still drives ok)

Just my luck, 5 days till i can finally drive it and it farks up along with the pc and the job i quit on friday ._.

Edited by GTAAAH
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183807-not-again/#findComment-3443012
Share on other sites

Thats your car going into R&R mode (limp mode) so you can drive it home without detonating the engine. You'll need to reset the ECU and do a self-test diagnostic, this will tell u whats broken i.e. as above 02 sensor etc.

I believe :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183807-not-again/#findComment-3443393
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...