Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

tough decision huh?

well, do you want a fast car in a straight line, or do you want a car that's one of the most unbeatable vehicles on the road?

you can spend bucks on a 300+rwkw gtst and have a commodore killer, but still get beat thru the bendy stuff by a stock gtr.

the diiference is not just a badge, its a whole different car.

if you can afford it, get the gtr. and as an owner, and up until recently, a gtr daily driver... they aint really that expensive to run. sure if you're dragging it every weekend and constantly wanting more (well, who doesn't) yeh there's bucks involved. but if you want bang for your bucks there's not much that will top a gtr for return.

I'm lucky. i have now a liberty spec b for a daily. but i still get into the gtr and go "f*rk!"

My mate has a very nice gtst, 300 odd at the wheels. not the same. always worrying about gassing it thru corners, fighting oversteer. and turbo lag is more of an issue too. great for bog laps and burnouts, but whenever we hit a bendy bit i know what car I'd rather be steering.

gtr's are the most amazing cars out there. you will never look back once you've driven one hard.

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

As you initially asked, it is wise to listen 'only' to those who own or have owned a GTR to give a better picture of reality. I see some comments already that reflect a lack of actual experience.

But like everything people have opinions and are entitled to them.

I have owned a few skylines and I can confidently assert that out of all of them the R32 GTR was the car I loved to drive most. I miss it still and after trying to fool myself with a stagea for 3 months I'm getting another one.

You don't spend money to 'save money' when it comes to performance cars. Ask yourself 'why' you spend the money in the first place and then go with it. It's the reason that matters most.

So when you are ready bugger off the GTST and get the R33 GTR you really want.

I'm getting more convinced on the GTR now :nyaanyaa:

Insurance shouldn't be too bad. If I get the GTR, I will have just turned 24 when I get it. I have a pretty good driving history too. Only one accident years ago, never lost my license and currently have all my points :)

I've had two 32 GTR's and both were daily drivers at some point in my ownership of them. Yeah fuel can be an issue but my current GTR will still get 420+ to a tank, more on a country haul.

Insurance will probably be a bit more than a GTS-t but if you can afford either then you can probably stretch for a GTR. Both of mine have been pretty reliable and any issues i've had i can honestly attribute to the age of the vehicle or hamfistedness on my part.

I'd say the worst thing about using a GTR as a daily would be being totally paranoid about it when it's parked anywhere but my lock up garage or the secure compound at work. I do have a rather low opinion of the shopping cart brigade so tootling down to the shops can be a bit anxious. Having said that i'd be like that over any car i own so my advice...

If you can afford the insurance and higer initial purhcase price go the GTR.

Just dont be suprised when you start eyeing off fast bits for it 6 months down the track.

Just keep your 33 and get a GTR. When i was 20 (at the start of the year) i had 2 cars, a VT wagon that owed me 24 grand (bad idea i know) and my 32. I was constantly doing both of them up, one week id buy something for the wagon, the next id get something for the 32. I wasnt making alot of money bout $600 a week and had to keep them both running aswell as other bills i had. The point of this is that its not hard or expensive to have 2 cars and still save some money aswell, you just have to have self control, its pretty easy. Have some fun and get the GTR and then get the house a year or 2 later

Whatever you decide goodluck :whistling:

I've had many GTR's and i first had a GTSt. There is no way in hell that a GTSt is worth the money in relation to the prices of a 32 GTR these days. I would buy a GTR and never look back, there is a huge difference between them and the GTR isnt a pocket killer unless you decide to modify the crap out of em.

GTR is a true racing car with daily driving attributes. You wont find a car like it unless you want to buy a Porsche GT2 or a GT3RS....

I own a very mild modded 32 gtr and an old vn as my daily driver. I have a house. Im 27 and have owned a heap of modded cars, road bikes, dirt bikes. I've always had 1 toy and sold one to buy another. Sell your 33 and buy the car you want otherwise you'll sink $$$ into the gts and yes will be fast in a straight line etc etc as pointed out, but at the end of it you'll be saying, i wonder if i bought a gtr back then & i could have bought a gtr with the $$$ spent.

I'd consider a vn/p as a daily driver. I bought my vn of my mum years ago as a daily driver. Has 313000k's on it, hasnt missed a beat. She had it since 70,000. Thats not a once off claim either. Theres so many you can buy them for practicly nothing, just have to know what to look for i spose.

A r32 gtr was always a dream, took me a long time though to find one in the original looks department and as tidy as it is. Utterly an amazing machine, that leaves me/passengers breathless/speechless. i could ramble all night how much i love it but the only thing i dont like are the stocker brakes, but you wont have to worry with the 33.

At the end of the day your still buying a fairly oldish car that can be very $$$$ to repair (helps doing a lot of stuff yourself) but imho the grin and history that goes with that badge is priceless.

Mike

If that doesn't convince you... nothing will :wub:

I was thinking along similar lines, maybe getting an old subaru liberty as a daily. Haven't looked at prices, but they may be too expensive as a bunky. I was thinking they would be could as a daily as well as something you can thrash around, take down south for holidays and not really worry about it.

get the gtr end of story..

mine was a daily til about 2 months ago when i was luckily given an old XG falcoon ute by my father outlaw who was gonna scrap it.

i clocked up 30 000 k's in 12 months of daily driving /cruising etc and nothing major went wrong with it just usual servicing every 5 000 k's .

just remember IT IS A PERFORMANCE CAR so you can NOT expect perfection.but the gtr will always bring a smile to your face every time you get behind the wheel.

I own a very mild modded 32 gtr and an old vn as my daily driver. I have a house. Im 27 and have owned a heap of modded cars, road bikes, dirt bikes. I've always had 1 toy and sold one to buy another. Sell your 33 and buy the car you want otherwise you'll sink $$$ into the gts and yes will be fast in a straight line etc etc as pointed out, but at the end of it you'll be saying, i wonder if i bought a gtr back then & i could have bought a gtr with the $$$ spent.

I'd consider a vn/p as a daily driver. I bought my vn of my mum years ago as a daily driver. Has 313000k's on it, hasnt missed a beat. She had it since 70,000. Thats not a once off claim either. Theres so many you can buy them for practicly nothing, just have to know what to look for i spose.

A r32 gtr was always a dream, took me a long time though to find one in the original looks department and as tidy as it is. Utterly an amazing machine, that leaves me/passengers breathless/speechless. i could ramble all night how much i love it but the only thing i dont like are the stocker brakes, but you wont have to worry with the 33.

At the end of the day your still buying a fairly oldish car that can be very $$$$ to repair (helps doing a lot of stuff yourself) but imho the grin and history that goes with that badge is priceless.

Mike

Listen to this advice.

The best (and first mod) that you should do is to get a daily driver/bunky in addition to your R. It not only saves you money but stress an grief when you need to drive/park somewhere dodgy. You are also mor inclined to do servicing and mods yourself as you won't be stuck for transport if it doesn't go as quickly as you expect (which in my case is almost everytime :laughing-smiley-014: )

I thought I'd voice my opinion

I've got a modified GT-R and spent abit of cash rebuilding it new block gearboxes ect ect and driven it 15000km last 2 years and its being good fun as a weekend car and even thought iv spent loads of cash ill never regret it,

I've got a bunky during the week

This combo works good, go the gt-r mate there gorillas you'll never look back, and proberly couldnt when u launch it hahah

Edited by monga

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Dumb question, but why would it matter if the wheel came off a car with hicas or not?
    • Hey to anyone that reads this, long time lurker first time posting, sorry if it’s been answered before but I’ve been looking for nearly a year now for answers. ive got a 25det neo in an r32 that works awesome when it works (made 500whp on 21psi) but works 45% of the time, 1st issue there’s a harness that runs under the passengers side front fender that my tire keeps rubbing through and one wire seems to power the fuel pump even though I’ve done the relay “mod” some people like to call it, and when it does rub through it kills the car, yes next time I’m with the car I want to take the fender off and try tuck the harness well out of the way but I’d also like to try and by pass this mysterious wire as well lol, also wouldn’t mind getting power from the alternator as I’ve read it supplies the pump with 13v ? But no idea where to run the power wire too. 2nd issue, when replacing my fuel pump and fuel hanger I managed to break the factory fuel level sender leaving me with no fuel gauge, I’d like to buy the fpg fuel level sender for r32/s13 but the plug it comes with confuses me, I’ve got a detschwerks x1 fuel hanger which has light + pump - level + pump + and a ground, I’m no auto sparky but I’m wondering if I can cut the plug off the fuel level sender and wire the negative to the pump negative and wire the positive to the level positive to get a fuel gauge back ?🥴 3rd and final issue, the reason I want a fuel gauge is because whenever it’s below half a tank, it fuel starves like crazy and runs like a bag of shit even without doing a pull or sloshing the fuel round in the tank, I’d also like to fix this but have no idea what’s causing it, I’ve got a dw420 and a dead head fuel setup meaning the fuel is regulated before it gets to the engine, my only theory is that the return line is to close to the pickup on the pump and when it’s at half a tank the return line is causing the pump to cavitate enough to cause fuel pressure issues, that or the pump isn’t low enough in the tank which I would find strange considering I can’t find a single thing online about it, also if ya wondering how I figured out it happens at half a tank without a fuel gauge, I waited until it started happening and went and filled up and the car took exactly 30 litres every time I tested it, if ya managed to read through this mess I appreciate that and any recommendations , cheers
    • ChatGPT is trash and lies about things I would not expect it to lie about considering many things it's wrong about are very easily verified with google. The S3 R33 GTR shares its steering wheel with R33 GTSTs of the same production year. Part number is 48430-26U17. I'm guessing you have to get it from a car that came with HICAS though, the ER33 is 48430-26U18, but the HR33 diagrams note that part number is still leather vs 48430-26U13 which is not leather-wrapped. They all use the same airbags, so if you need another one you can get it off basically any same year R33 or Stagea.
    • I'm going to run hard lines front to back in the future. That should help dissipate a bit more heat. If not, a fuel cooler might be next 
    • No. The mark is with respect to the cam rotation. None of those things have altered it. When stationary, the cam position stays in sync with the crank position. It doesn't matter if you moved the head 4 feet up. Hence, that mark needs to stay exactly where it is.  
×
×
  • Create New...