Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what happens is..

no acceleration..

hear turbo winding..

cant get over 2.5 revs or it starts jolting.. like its getting acceleration then loosing it quickly.

Does it 1/6 times i drive the car..

* When i bought the car it did this. He said it was a wiring problem on the AFM, wich it may be.. cause u play with the wiring and the car cuts off*

Just woundering what else this might be caused from if its not the wiring?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183858-my-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

what happens is..

no acceleration..

hear turbo winding..

cant get over 2.5 revs or it starts jolting.. like its getting acceleration then loosing it quickly.

Does it 1/6 times i drive the car..

* When i bought the car it did this. He said it was a wiring problem on the AFM, wich it may be.. cause u play with the wiring and the car cuts off*

Just woundering what else this might be caused from if its not the wiring?

Hmmm.....sounds like limp home mode for a faulty AFM, won't let you rev past 2500rpm. My experience was exactly the same, happened fairly infrequently......at first. I killed mine thanks to the use of some normal silcon for a seal between the the AFM and the airfilter. The silcon was not "sensor safe". I know now better!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183858-my-r32-gts-t/#findComment-3330783
Share on other sites

Is it auto or manual?

Sounds like your has blown a cooler piping. Check all the piping to make sure they haven't popped off, reason its surging above 2500rpm is because it builds boost, but the boost doesn't reach the intake manifold as it leaks out somewhere in the piping, then the car over fuels and start surging.

Thats my theory, check the simple things first.

If its not that, then chack AFM.

Abu

EDIT: Just re-read your post, does sound more like the AFM than anything. But check all things to be sure. :P

Edited by abu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183858-my-r32-gts-t/#findComment-3330824
Share on other sites

Try borrowing a friends afm and see if there's any difference. If it's not that, do what abu has suggested. Check piping.

Yep thats a good idea actually!

See if that works, saves you buying one and that not being the problem.

You could probably source a 2nd hand one from the forums for fairly cheap. Will keen an eye on the for sale section. If I see one I will post up the for sale thread link. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183858-my-r32-gts-t/#findComment-3331018
Share on other sites

thanks guys, yeah im pretty sure its the afm, i got a microtech to install when i get a new turbo.. so then i wont need my afm, just waiting on loom for the microtech, $300 is cheapest loom iv found so far... dont want to pay that much :nyaanyaa:

Yeah thats good. I reckon AFMs are more trouble then they are worth.

A MAP sensor would be much more reliable in that sense.

Well thats my personal opinion anyways lol

Edited by abu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183858-my-r32-gts-t/#findComment-3333250
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...