Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I am looking to buy either a R32 GT-R.

More specifically, either a V-Spec II, V-Spec, Aussie delivered, or N1 - I wish, if I can find one of those.

Can anyone tell me if there is an easy way to identify any of these buy looking at the VIN? (e.g., do V-Spec's have a certain character after the "BNR32...")

or is it something I can only find out by calling a Nissan dealer?

Thanks for your help.

Paul.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183869-identifying-my-special-skyline/
Share on other sites

Hi Paul,

Yes you can identify these cars from the VIN number. Do a search for VIN or FAST software and you should find what you are after.

The question would be moreso why you are specifically after a V-Spec or V-Spec II GTR.

If you believe they are somehow either more sought after or perform better than non-V-Spec models you would be mistaken.

Plenty of people have sought advice as to the best models to buy and the answer ALWAYS comes back the same - buy the

car which is in the best condition for the money.

While there are differences between the models, in a performance sense, us mere mortals would not be able to tell the difference,

no matter how hard you drive them.

Search is your friend on these forums - you will find plenty of good information to help with your purchase.

Good luck.

Peter

Thanks Peter,

I though that seeing as they were made in limited numbers (I guess they all now made in limited numbers but some are more limited than others) the V-Spec/II and Oz delivered would be more "collectable" down the track - I'll bet in 1980* no one thought that their Phase III GTHO was going to sell for $683,650** in 2007 - but perhaps this might be the case for all GTR's in general.

But you are right, I am finding it hard enough to find a 93/94 GTR in good and original condition let alone one of the "badged" GTR's. Forntunately for me I am in no rush to buy and won't mind waiting for that perfect one.

Paul.

Footnote:

To those for whom I am about to state the bleeding obvious I apologise for the following... (Just saving some time)

* I know Phase III GTHO's were built in 1971. I used 1980 as an example to illustrate the point that the true value (or collectability) of cars built in 1994 won't be realised for another 10 - 20 years.

** This figure came from an auction held on March 25 2007 for a restored original Phase III GTHO. I have no expectation of ever seeing an R32 GTR sell for that much (except for maybe a couple "special ones" e.g., Build number 1's etc.)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
    • All I can say is, that's still bloody awesome! No plans on caging it I'm guessing?
    • It seems you'd like your Skyline to go to a great home, that can keep it as a beautiful museum piece.  I feel I can provide the perfect place for it, however, I'm not sure I can justify so much money for a Skyline that has only been crashed 3 times. Due to this and market prices, would you be against me buying it for $100.00, with $60 to be paid upfront, and the remaining $40 to be paid annually in equal payments?  
×
×
  • Create New...