Jump to content
SAU Community

Sway Bars For Motokhana/autocross

evil_weevil
 Share

Recommended Posts

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

G'day!

Ok, with my R33 - Ive got the full Sydneykid set up plus a hicas lockbar

Currenty with my sway bars, the front is on "medium" and the rear is on "hard"

If I put the rear to medium, how much difference will it make?

Less "oversteer"?

I guess for this event I dont want to get too much oversteer (even though it is fun!!)

Should I leave the front on medium setting?

When I did DECA last, I didnt have too much understeer on the skid pan which was good, but was still getting a bit too much sideways and losing some time

any ideas,thoughts, comments are welcome!

cheers,

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183873-sway-bars-for-motokhanaautocross/
Share on other sites
salad Veteran

salad

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yes, softening the rear bar will have less oversteer. I've found that the settings on the rear bar make quite a bit of difference, more noticable than changes on the front bar too. Which makes sense as the lever arms are longer on the front to rear, but the holes are the same difference apart. So the percentage change in effective lever arm length is bigger on the rear.

Edited by salad
NickR33 Grand Master

NickR33

Posted
Posted

I have same setup as you evil... I always run the front on medium and just play with the setup on the rear... full hard on the rear was the most fun and made it more responsive as 33's with the heavy rb up front and the long wheelbase tend to push understeer really badly on the skidpan...

buuuuut that being said it is much more balanced/nuetral with the rear bar on medium... and if you are pretty agressive with the handbrake when required you won't see any understeer... this is now my preferred setup

this is all pointless anyway when you consider the stock diffs multiple personalities... harder the rear bar is the more single spinning you get

nisskid Grand Master

nisskid

Posted
Posted

i found even with the front on medium and the rear on hard it was still a bit understeery, i changed the front to soft and it feels great, pretty oversteery which id assume would be the best balance for autocross. thats what works best for me and thats with a r32.

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just an update...

took the car with the sway bars both set to medium to our texikhana

did a wet skid pan (on semi's...... :happy: ) was sucked

however on the back track the car felt great!

Ive done a few road type events before at DECA and the car yesterday, just felt nicer and balanced all over - with my semi's on I hard hardley any oversteer, and if it did it was because getting on the gas too early but when it did, it didnt throw out as much as it did before! and had no understeer!

so was really happy with the set up - thanks again Nick for the tips

  • 5 months later...
evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
  • Author
Posted

bump :thumbsup:

More questions on sway bars guys :D

I did a day at wakie yesterday (first time and managed a 1.14) and I had my sway bars changed to both on maximum hard. during the day, I was getting a bit understeerie, and also I started open wheeling on some tight turns (fish hook and last turn)

what are peoples thoughts if I changed both to medium for track work (not khana's?)

or medium rear, soft front?

Has anyone changed sway bars to any and many combinations? If so, what were they?

Prevoulsy in this thread I had them on mediiums for one day, worked well. Just wanna see/hear others thoughts.

Gary??? :D

Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted (edited)

From me experiance with recently setting up the GTR you better off setting the bars to close to the fatcory spec firstly. Medium probably in your case. I actually went back to factory bars initially.

From there I focused on getting the tire to work properly, buy a pyrometer or at least an infa red thermometer and check tread temps after a session. Set up the allignment so the tire is working to its potential then use the sway bars.

I went out firstly with an alligment I thought would be good but found it to need much more camber and a little more toe out to get the tires working properly.

I found after getting my alligment to a position I was semi happy I was left with minimal understeer. I left the front bar in the center of its adjustment and slid the rear till the understeer was less apparent. I dont have hole type adjustment Im using slide types.

Edited by Risking
evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers Brad,

Yeah druncan said the same, get one of thse heat things onto the tyres after a session and record/measure the temp for my settings.

Im gonna put them back to medium for this sat and see how the nugget goes!

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

You doing the tampered day then?

If you set the front to medium and leave the rear at hard it will improve the understeer.

I'd be inclined to go soft front/medium rear until you get a diff to try and work around the open wheeling issue.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

I usually start of with the front bar on full soft and the rear on the middle setting.

If it oversteers too much, then I move the front bar to the middle setting

If it still oversteers too much, then I back the rear bar off to the softest setting

If it still oversteers too much, then I move the front bar to the highest setting

If it still oversteers too much, then you might need some more rear camber and/or the HICAS is still working (get rid of it) and/or the rear subframe alignment kit needs to be set to maximum traction (squat)

OR

I usually start of with the front bar on full soft and the rear on the middle setting.

If it understeers too much, then I move the rear bar to the highest setting

If it still understeers too much then you don't have enough caster/camber on the front

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      NC MX5

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      In true Gregging style...  
    • Duncan
      R32 gtr hood latch support/lock part number search

      By Duncan · Posted

      Time for bonnet pins!
×
×
  • Create New...