Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have owned the car for almost 2.5 years. I am the first owner in Australia. Imported the car through imports101. The car landed in April 2005 and was complienced by Carizma. This car has always been very reliable, and the only problem i ever had was with the original RB20DET engine, which dropped a cylinder. At the time i was quite annoyed, but it gave me a reason to put in an RB25DET!

All the necessary engine conversion work was done by Roshan at Driftline Racing. No corners were cut, and i ensured everything was done as well as it could have been.

I have attended 3 track days in the car and it has been great to me at all of them... only problem it had was needing MORE TYRES!

The Rear seats, Carpet and sound deadening have been removed and the entire floor has been painted matt black. This was done in May this year. At the same time, I had the majority of the car Re Sprayed to freshen it up when i put the Type-m kit on.

The Engine and gearbox came out of a R33 Series 2 GTS-t front cut.

Kilometres: 65,000 (Engine swap was done at 49,000)

Complianced: Yes

Registered: Yes, Until April 28th 2008

Transmission: 5 speed Manual

Engine: 6 cylinder RB25DET Turbo 2.5L

Modifications:

RB25DET Engine Swap

RB25DET Gear Box

Brand new Exedy Heavy Duty Clutch

Custom R32/R33 Tailshaft

Cusco Adjustable Castor Rods

Cusco Front and Rear Sway Bars

Cusco Front and Rear Strut Braces

Greddy Intercooler and Piping

Power FC with Hand Controller

Bride Brix II Seat

Tuned By Dr Drift

Nismo 2 Way LSD

Vertex Front Bar

Type-m Side skirts and rear bar

Flared rear guards (wider than usual)

Tomei Hicas Lock System

Twin Davis Craig Thermo Fans

Greddy Oil Catch Can

R32 GTR Wheels

Custom 3 Inch Exhaust w/High Flow Cat

ReSpray in Custom Gold

HKS Hypermax Suspension

Z32 AFM

Dr Drift Boost Controller

GTR Fuel Pump

R32 GTR Black Bonnet

2 HKS Guages - Water/Eng Temp

Pivot Full Auto Turbo timer

Pod Filter

Immobileser (Playing up)

Producing a SAFE 210RWKW @ Dr Drift

$17,000 ONO

Contact Troy...

[email protected] (Also for MSN)

0409875864

Car is Currently located 1hr from CBD

Will add more pics shortly

post-13769-1189059405_thumb.jpg

post-13769-1189059574_thumb.jpg

post-13769-1189059642_thumb.jpg

post-13769-1189061206_thumb.jpg

post-13769-1189061428_thumb.jpg

Edited by Prospector
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183952-trackstreet-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
    • Got started on the modification to make these splash plates fit over the long weekend. First the surprisingly time consuming task of swapping all the cam cap bolts to Tomei cam cap studs. I did the method of removing one bolt at a time, applying loctite to the stud, double nutting to torque as the manual described. Then carefully unlocking the nuts without disrupting the torque of the stud (and going back to re-torque a few times when it slipped). Finally applying the nut and torquing to spec. Repeat x28 Next up I went about removing the stock cam cover baffle so I could ensure it was fully clean after drilling for stud clearance.  As the blind rivets holding the baffle on were domed I used a punch to mark the center then used 4mm drill bit to carefully drill out the rivet without going too far part the baffle. As seen in other thread here is what is inside the stock baffles I decided on M4x6mm bolts to bolt the baffle plate back on with. I used a 3.3mm drill bit with some tape to mark the depth at ~8mm. Next was to tap the threads using a cheap bunnings kit M4x0.7. With the baffle removed I also drilled out the spot welds holding in the baffle plate oil returns. Unsure whether this was the best option or if I should have cut holes in the Hypertune splash plates to allow the oil drains to still function... time will tell. I then removed the the Hypertune splash plates so I could rest the cam cover on top and use a dab of grease to mark where the studs impacted the oem cam cover baffle. The most obvious spot was on the hump from the stock mesh is held. Using this hole as an anchor I bolted the oem baffle plate back into the cam cover and lined up the Hypertune splash plate. Marked the rest of the holes for the studs and drill those out too. Total 32 holes drilled and 12 threads tapped on the passenger side cam cover alone for this bolt on part that totally clears all OEM cam covers.. Drivers side next as well as some E85 safe fuel foam to fill the space behind the behind cam cover baffle plates. oh and some lock nuts for the splash plates of course.
×
×
  • Create New...