Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys and gals

My rb26dett is really starting to give me the shits, to give u a little history.

The engine got rebuilt wif aftermarket pistons, conrods, bottom end bearings, jun oil pump and hks stage 1 cams.

Ran the engine in for the and took the car in for the 1500kms service to change the oil.

After the oil change i took it for a test drive near the mechanic shops and gave it a good boot and as i slowed down realised i blew a bottom end bearing on piston 1, which left me confused. I remember when i got the car back to the mechanic shop the oil pressure was still high.

Out came the engine again the crank got sent away to get machined, all parts got put back together started the car and oil pressure was really low and the jun oil pump had a bit of play.

Out came the engine again and replaced the jun oil pump with an N1 oil pump, put it back in and the friken oil pressure is still not holding. We've tried different oil pressure guages, oil pressure sensor but the oil pressure does not wana stay up.

Engine is out again......its certainly got me and the mechanic baffeled not knowing whats causing this. All up the car has been off the road for over a month, so please any help will be good.

Is there somewhere we should be looking for a blockage, the oil pressure is sitting on the first line on the oil guage and when you rev the car it sits just under 4......

Please help, i miss my car.............

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183997-oil-pressure/
Share on other sites

try a different machinist.

if he didnt get the clearances right the first time why would you send it back to the same guy?

sure, id make him pay for it - but id send it to another machinist.

when he re-ground the crank he probably didnt use the correct specs. get a new crank and test it with some plastigauge before you throw it back in.

did your mechanic do a crush test with some plastigauge when you got the crank back, or did he just throw it in thinking it would all be fine?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183997-oil-pressure/#findComment-3332584
Share on other sites

try a different machinist.

if he didnt get the clearances right the first time why would you send it back to the same guy?

sure, id make him pay for it - but id send it to another machinist.

when he re-ground the crank he probably didnt use the correct specs. get a new crank and test it with some plastigauge before you throw it back in.

did your mechanic do a crush test with some plastigauge when you got the crank back, or did he just throw it in thinking it would all be fine?

100% right

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183997-oil-pressure/#findComment-3332717
Share on other sites

hi guys

thanks for the replies, he did do a squish test before putting on the bottom end bearings and they all fell through under the correct measurements.....

il talk to the mechanic and see what he has to say about sending it to another shop but if the squish test came out fine, then the crank would have been measured and re-machined correctly right???

Lemme know guys please

Thanks

Rj

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183997-oil-pressure/#findComment-3332934
Share on other sites

but how did he do the test?, how many pieces did he use on each bearing? which one did he use?

are you merely going off his word or did you see this yourself?

my opinion would be to get a new crank, or if yours is still serviceable get it to another machinist and get him to check the thrust bearing clearance as well as check the crank for run-out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183997-oil-pressure/#findComment-3333153
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...