Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey fellas i rang brant up and they told me that none of their alarms work in tandem with ANY turbo timers..

is this true? or has the guy bullshytted me??

ive got aHKS type 1..

also ppl that i spoken to..said that using a turbo timer..u gotta see how much the engine "shudders" when the timer turns off the car...cuz the engine shudder can cuase the "armed alarm" to be triggered and go off...

just a though

mc

:shake:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1840-brant/page/2/#findComment-36266
Share on other sites

Err~!! take out my TT?? i havent even put it in yet..hehe

yeah prank the type1 has a 0-400 etc etc..but you wont be able to use the TT function..

DOes anyone know of any INSURANCE APPROVED alarms on the market that support turbo timer functions? for say :

under $600

2point immonbilisation.

black wiring

separate brain and siren?

pls help

mc:shake:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1840-brant/page/2/#findComment-36309
Share on other sites

Originally posted by soopamarcus

WTF? are u kidding me? the tech guy at brant said they couldnt get it to work with and TT...

what turbo timer does ur friend have? and also which model brant does he have fitted?!~

mc:shake:

not sure - i think its an older model brant system...

i'll find out, but i know him well and i have seen it all work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1840-brant/page/2/#findComment-36345
Share on other sites

I got a TT and a Brant.

The deal is for some legal reason turbo timmers ain't legal so brant doesn't want anything to do with em.

What my car does is

You can look the doors and let the turbo timmer run then 30sec after the car turns off the imobiliser turns on but the alarm will not turn on unless you hit the button agian.

So it sorta works...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1840-brant/page/2/#findComment-36437
Share on other sites

The Brant AA02 and Nemesis both work with turbo timers as I know a two people on this forum with this setup working fine.

Turbo timers are illegal though and if your insurance company finds you have one i have heaard they may not payout if your car gets flogged. Dunno how they can do this though....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1840-brant/page/2/#findComment-36503
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...