Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i would be changing it simply due to age of the pump, but also i think the stock one would be at it's limits.

new fuel pumps are cheap and take about 1/2 hour to install yourself

Edited by Green_s13

Ok cool, sounds like I should get a new one! lol

Might get one installed today while its in the workshop.....

My mate said he can get me "JR coilpacks", has anyone heard of them before? Ive tryed doing some research on google but cant find anything. Or would it be best just to get Splitfires?

Best to change it man.

WALBRO fuel pump is like $130ish, very good pump. I think there is someone with an R33 making about 300rwkw with one?

GTR pump is also a good upgrade. Its a similar price to a WALBRO pump, but 2nd hand obviously. There a good size pump and will serve you fine.

BOSCH 040 pump is a slightly larger pump, but worth more like $180. Also a good brand pump good for big power.

Personally running a GTR pump and aiming for about 220-240rwkw which I think it should be fine with.. But I only bought it because I got it cheap.

Would go with a WALBRO if I did upgrade as they are good value for money, just make sure you get an original one.

Just my input, hope it helps. :nyaanyaa:

Edited by abu

Oh and just a quick input about injectors. They will be fine to about 215-220rwkw, once you exeed that or get near that its recommended that you change them as they get high into the duty cycle, which means there more prone to failure.

R32 GTR injectors are a good replacement, but for a few hundred more you can grab a new set of NISMO 740cc injectors, about $500-$600.

just think about how vital it is to keep a nice flow of fuel in your car.. change it asap.

i personally wouldn't change your 15 year old standard pump with a 15 year old GTR pump.

if you're really after GTR type, get the nismo pump. if you want your money's worth, get a bosch 040.

change the injectors too. i wouldn't feel safe keeping them close to full load.

that's my 2c :nyaanyaa:

Ok cool, sounds like I should get a new one! lol

Might get one installed today while its in the workshop.....

My mate said he can get me "JR coilpacks", has anyone heard of them before? Ive tryed doing some research on google but cant find anything. Or would it be best just to get Splitfires?

If you dont have ignition problems, then you dont need any.

Fuel pump:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=91993&st=0

When you say ignition problems do you mean when i start the car? Becasue everytime i start the car i need to touch the pedal a bit to get the fuel going through? Would this be the fuel pump or my injectors?

With the Coilpacks, i wanna get some new ones as every now and then the car will start miss firing, but then it will be ok for awhile..... Think im gonna go for the JR coilpacks, they are new for $400. Spilfires seem to be $700... bit expensive.... Has anyone heard of the JR coilpacks?

Edited by r32matt
Oh and just a quick input about injectors. They will be fine to about 215-220rwkw, once you exeed that or get near that its recommended that you change them as they get high into the duty cycle, which means there more prone to failure.

R32 GTR injectors are a good replacement, but for a few hundred more you can grab a new set of NISMO 740cc injectors, about $500-$600.

It'll be okay to run your standard injectors at 215rwkw+ aslong as you've got a good tuner. I think it'll be best to change your injectors at 200rwkw though.

Like everyone else has said about the fuel pump, just get a new one. Don't replace a 15 year old pump with another 15 year old pump.

With the Coilpacks, i wanna get some new ones as every now and then the car will start miss firing, but then it will be ok for awhile.....

don't start pulling the cash out yet.. try a couple things.

for starters, have you taken off your spark plug cover? with it on it traps the heat inside which can make your coilpacks go funny.

second, try doing a coilpack diagnostic check to see if they're up to scratch.

and third, slap some injector cleaner in. see if that helps.

:P

Best bet would be to change them out before they do go, as the density of compressed air/fuel in the combustion chamber increases, so does resistance, putting more load on the coil packs which will eventually cause them to fail :P

Splitfires are proven to work but they're also a rip off.. If you're handy with electronics it doesn't take long to wire up 3 bommodore coil packs in a wasted spark type setup :(

If you dont have ignition problems, then you dont need any.

Fuel pump:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=91993&st=0

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...