Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have got a GReddy oil temp gauge that came with my car, the sender and the

power etc were all wired up before I got it, problem is, it doesn't work.

I've double checked the wiring, works perfect. I'm thinking there is a problem with the guage itself, as the needle is stuck right over at max, weather it's plugged in or not, the needle will jump 'down' (anticlockwise) as you start the engine, but then return instantly, then does it again as you turn ignition off. Going by other pics of them I've seen, they ain't meant to be on max when untouched.... as seen here.

66uiz9t.jpg

common problem/easy fix at all? or do I have to get other one of these things..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184160-greddy-oil-temp-gauge-probs/
Share on other sites

I don't know if this is the same, but some water temp gauges go to max when there is no input - the idea being if you loose all your coolant the sender would only see ambient temp (say 20o) but the car is actually cooking. When you plug the sender in it shows the right temp instead.

I was thinking that at first, but when I plugged her in it says otherwise. I've had a multimeter on the sender wires and resistance changes with temp, so that's all good.

I've tried opening it, there is two cap screws on the back, but she won't budge ;)

I had a similar problem with my oil temp guage, but not the same my needle would stay on the other side of the stopper of the 30degrees. then when i drive and the oil temp moves it stays there til i hit 110 on track and sometimes go back to normal.

SOLUTION: i went to jaycar and bought two very small and SUPER strong magnets i mean REALLY strong.... small but if your finger was between them or would snap your figure off no joke it was around $15-$30 for the needle. Just got a cloth put the magnet to the guage and moved the needle back to the normal position and all was sweet.

Pm me if your in sydney and want to meet up and borrow the magnet

It worked!

But if I plug it in and turn ignition on it'll go to max again! if you leave it on ACC or have the engine running and plug the guage in it'll show the proper temp....

done some more multimetering, the wire that's meant to be only powered on ignition is powered on acc too, so hopefully that is the underlying problem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...