Ready To Mod. Is This Right?

[335]

Hello

I am ready to start modding my car. I dont know how to rate kw but I am looking for about 250 hp right now. I have a R32 GTS-T stock except for the cat back exhaust( 3" I think)

The mechanic I go to suggested that I do these mods to my car:

exhaust manifold

down pipe

sports cat/hi flow cat

catback exhaust(all ready have this, was on the car when bought it. Its a Aplexi 3" I think.)

bigger fuel pump(He suggest GTR)

sports air pod(Like the Aplexi or HKS)

boost controller

Fuel rail

E-Manage Ultimate.

How does this sound? Is this correct? He said that I don't need to touch my fuel injectors and dont need a FMIC.

Will this work and will I have a good response time in my car still? I dont want to have a laggy car. I finally drove R33 GTS-T and I felt the difference. The R33 had way more acceleration without the lag I feel in my car when I start off from a stop.

I want to have a good car with good accelaration.

Please help. Oh I live in Japan.

Edited September 8, 2007 by 335

[R31Nismoid]

Manifold - waste of money.

The rest looks spot on. With a tune it will liven up the car.

End of the day, you have an RB20, its not really the pinnacle of response

[335]

Manifold - waste of money.

The rest looks spot on. With a tune it will liven up the car.

End of the day, you have an RB20, its not really the pinnacle of response

Thanks. No manifold, ok. Well I cant afford a GTR, I dont like R33s(too big for me) Dont want to try to buy a RB25 or 26 because expensive and if I buy a RB25( I have seen them on Japan Yahoo Auction for as low as 500 dollars) but my mechanic suggested that it may or may not be in good working condition. Thats a chance I dont want to take.

So I figure if I only want to reach 300 hp in the end, I will stick with my RB 20.

Is there any way to get a good response out of it?

Thanks

Edited September 8, 2007 by 335

[Interloper]

you will certainly need a decent front mount intercooler to make repeatable power runs - the stock side mount one heat soaks very easily.

[abu]

You got a good list happening there, and to get the RB20 up and moving you wont need to spend big $$.

No need to go RB25 if your only hunting for about 300rwhp, its easily done.

You can get the following to get to 300rwhp;

FMIC

Fuel pump (GTR, WALBRO, BOSCH)

3" turbo back exhaust

After market clutch for reliability

High-flow RB20/25 turbo

Tune (REMAP or piggy back (SAFCII, E-MANAGE)

A tune is really important. It improves fuel economy, power and also response. A good tune will help your engine last and perform at its best.

Plenty of info available! Good luck with it all man, RB20's are the best lol

[abu]

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=103095

Have a read through this thread, "Rb20 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results".

I really like it because you can see what other people are putting out power wise with there RB20s and with what modifications. Its a good reference to what works and what doesn't.

Its all well and good to have it in theory, but these are some real results you can compare too.

[335]

You got a good list happening there, and to get the RB20 up and moving you wont need to spend big $$.

No need to go RB25 if your only hunting for about 300rwhp, its easily done.

You can get the following to get to 300rwhp;

FMIC

Fuel pump (GTR, WALBRO, BOSCH)

3" turbo back exhaust

After market clutch for reliability

High-flow RB20/25 turbo

Tune (REMAP or piggy back (SAFCII, E-MANAGE)

A tune is really important. It improves fuel economy, power and also response. A good tune will help your engine last and perform at its best.

Plenty of info available! Good luck with it all man, RB20's are the best lol

Thanks for all of the info. One question, the mechanic that I spoke with said that if I put a FMIC on it and kept the stock turbo I woud get more hp but he said that it woud slow down my response time, it would give me power but I would have a slow start. Is there a way to keep this from happening? And I have a automatic, does that make any difference?

Thanks

Help

Edited September 8, 2007 by 335

[r32woohoo]

The stock turbo is pretty much the most responsive turbo you can use (unless you go smaller but thats going backwards), but it runs out of puff in the upper rev range.

An fmic will increase lag but only marginally.

you will need another turbo to make more power but have more lag.

As long as you dont go too big with the turbo the lag isnt so bad.

[abu]

Thanks for all of the info. One question, the mechanic that I spoke with said that if I put a FMIC on it and kept the stock turbo I woud get more hp but he said that it woud slow down my response time, it would give me power but I would have a slow start. Is there a way to keep this from happening? And I have a automatic, does that make any difference?

Thanks

Help

Not a problem.

Yeah the intercooler will give you a little less response due to the increased size in piping (diameter) and length.

Increase and power probably due to more dense cooling and slight boost increase due to more flow, same as with the exhaust (turbo back).

Nothing to worry about, you wont notice much difference once you put the cooler on, in regards to power/response loss.

If anything you will pick up 1psi boost and get a little more mid-range kick.

Stock turbo is fairly small, and will run out of puff at about 5,500rpm. Temporary solution is an RB25 turbo as they are slightly larger than that on the RB20, but its only good for about 190rwkw with supporting mods.

Alternatively a RB20 high flow would do you well, get you over the 200rwkw mark, or there is a lot of other after market solutions available.

Have a read through that link I posted up, you can check out the dyno graphs and the power curves of people running different turbos. Will give you an idea of how much lag/response to expect with what size turbo

Edited September 8, 2007 by abu

[335]

Not a problem.

Yeah the intercooler will give you a little less response due to the increased size in piping (diameter) and length.

Increase and power probably due to more dense cooling and slight boost increase due to more flow, same as with the exhaust (turbo back).

Nothing to worry about, you wont notice much difference once you put the cooler on, in regards to power/response loss.

If anything you will pick up 1psi boost and get a little more mid-range kick.

Stock turbo is fairly small, and will run out of puff at about 5,500rpm. Temporary solution is an RB25 turbo as they are slightly larger than that on the RB20, but its only good for about 190rwkw with supporting mods.

Alternatively a RB20 high flow would do you well, get you over the 200rwkw mark, or there is a lot of other after market solutions available.

Have a read through that link I posted up, you can check out the dyno graphs and the power curves of people running different turbos. Will give you an idea of how much lag/response to expect with what size turbo

Ok, thanks, will read the charts. How do you read the graphs? I am new to all of this. When would I need to worry about upgrading the injectors? One thing I am planning on doing after I do the full exhaust is to try the Tomei replacement cams and cam gears. Does any have any idea what this would do to my car as far as power and lag?

Thanks

Help

[Simmo1985]

I'm pretty sure a lot of people have had success with using a R34 GTT SMIC on RB20's. Or was that on RB25's? Not sure, was reading it a while ago. You can pick up an R34 GTT SMIC for like $200 and will cost a lot less to fit as it will sit in the same position as your current one, piping should be very similar.

Do a search, might be worth looking into if you don't wanna go down the FMIC road.

You'll have to upgrade your current intercooler regardless I'd say, either the FMIC or R34 SMIC would be good options I'd say.

Also - check out JustJap trader section on this forum for good prices on dump/hi-flow cats. Check out Slide for cheap walbro fuel pumps.

Edited September 8, 2007 by Simmo1985

[335]

I'm pretty sure a lot of people have had success with using a R34 GTT SMIC on RB20's. Or was that on RB25's? Not sure, was reading it a while ago. You can pick up an R34 GTT SMIC for like $200 and will cost a lot less to fit as it will sit in the same position as your current one, piping should be very similar.

Do a search, might be worth looking into if you don't wanna go down the FMIC road.

You'll have to upgrade your current intercooler regardless I'd say, either the FMIC or R34 SMIC would be good options I'd say.

Also - check out JustJap trader section on this forum for good prices on dump/hi-flow cats. Check out Slide for cheap walbro fuel pumps.

Will check, thank you. The R34 intercoolr sounds interesting. What advantage would that give me over the FMIC? Oh I wanted to ask, does anyone suggest replacing radiator with new one even though stock one is working?My car is 16 years old. If getting a new one is good, should I go with original from Nissan or would a aftermarket one be better?

Thanks

Help

[abu]

Personal opinion but I think the R34 side mount is a waste of time, there still only a side mount intercooler and about a quarter of the size of a decent front mount.

Injectors are good for up to 220rwkw, but wouldnt push anymore. Just remember if you do go after market injectors you will need a tune to run them as they are a bigger to your standard injectors and your ECU wont know that.

Standard CAMs are alright, but not to sure what you would get with after market CAMs so I wont comment on that.

Edited September 8, 2007 by abu

[abu]

Original radiator is fine, only replace it if it gives up.

[abu]

Bit more information on the R34 side mount intercooler on an R32

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=r34+side+mount

R32 GTR intercooler are a good upgrade, but you would need to get custom piping made.

There is a lot of "HYBRID" copy style piping kits available from about $130 and up.

GTR coolers are also black so wouldn't be as visible and they are also a good quality core.

Edited September 8, 2007 by abu

[335]

Original radiator is fine, only replace it if it gives up.

Ok Thank you.

If someone could please tell me how to read the Dyno charts I would greatly appreciate it. Also just the other questions I had asked, will replacement cams and cam gears improve anything? When would I need bigger injectors? I looked at the Just Jap site and saw that they have the hi flow cats, they are cheap! Are those good?

Thanks

Help

[abu]

When would I need bigger injectors?

Injectors are good for up to 220rwkw, but wouldnt push anymore. Just remember if you do go after market injectors you will need a tune to run them as they are a bigger to your standard injectors and your ECU wont know that.

If you want 300rwhp, that converts to about 223rwkw, so I would suggest bigger injectors, unless your happy to leave it at about 220rwkw.

Edited September 8, 2007 by abu

[335]

If you want 300rwhp, that converts to about 223rwkw, so I would suggest bigger injectors, unless your happy to leave it at about 220rwkw.

Ok, sorry I had missed some of the posts. Ok so maybe bigger injectors later. I think the cheapest start is to do the full exhaust. After that do the fuel pump and fuel rail. If I want more after that, I will look at a bigger intercooler. If want more after that, then will look into getting my turbo hi flowed.

I understand now. What is a fuel regulator? Would I need that or a oil cooler? What about the cold box around the intake? Oh and does anyone think the hi flow cats that they sell on Just Jap is good? I have seen hi flow cats from 80 dollars up to 800 dollars. I want to do the cams because its so cheap to buy them and the adjustable gears.

Thanks

Help

[abu]

Fuel rail you wont need to change, as GTR injectors will go straight onto your standard fuel rail.

Fuel regulator, or FPR, holds fuel pressure in the fuel rail. There is after market ones which just hold more pressure in the fuel rail so the car runs a little richer, its just a temporary solution and a quick fix.

If you get your car tuned, there will be no need for a after market fuel pressure regulator, the after market fuel pump with the GTR injectors and a tune will be fine.

Its for cars running no tune, and say you want to run like 15psi with no tune, you will get a rising rate/FPR so that it runs that little bit richer, just enough to keep it safe.

Start off turbo a turbo back exhaust as well as a FMIC setup. Wont cost you much and the car will run better.

The stock air box is fine along with the stock intake pipe, but if you want some noise get a pod filter, something like an APEXi power intake is good, try avoid foam filament filters.

Dont need to do much in the sense of a cold air intake, the stock stuff works the best. But if you do put a pod on try and shield it a little so it doesn't suck all the hot air in, but you wont have much issue with that at all..

With the FMIC and turbo back exhaust I would say its safe to boost your standard turbo up to about 12-13psi, I personally wouldn't go anymore as they are prone to break. Then if you want put a fuel pump in, BOSCH or a WALBRO as discussed and that will be fine.

Next step would be a bigger turbo, and a tune, at the same time if you want an after market set of injectors. GTR injectors are good for about 260rwkw + easy I believe.

Bit of a tip, if you want to go to about 190rwkw get your self an RB25 turbo, one in good condition. Be about $300 off the forums if that, set the boost to 14psi and get some sort of tune. APEXi SAFC II is a fuel only computer that will work, or alternatively for RB20 a REMAP ECU is the way to go. That will safely get you to 190rwkw.

If you want more go a high flow turbo or a GARRETT/HKS. Then just injectors and a tune and your looking at over 200rwkw.

Power may vary a little for you as your car is auto. There is a little more power loss from the fly wheel to the rear wheels with an auto, as oppose to a manual.

Few other tips to get your car going a little quicker. Auto shift kits to make the shifts between gears faster and harder, a high stall converter to get your car off the line quicker so you can get good launches, but thats all later down the track.

Hope some of that helps.

Abu

Edited September 8, 2007 by abu

[335]

Fuel rail you wont need to change, as GTR injectors will go straight onto your standard fuel rail.

Fuel regulator, or FPR, holds fuel pressure in the fuel rail. There is after market ones which just hold more pressure in the fuel rail so the car runs a little richer, its just a temporary solution and a quick fix.

If you get your car tuned, there will be no need for a after market fuel pressure regulator, the after market fuel pump with the GTR injectors and a tune will be fine.

Its for cars running no tune, and say you want to run like 15psi with no tune, you will get a rising rate/FPR so that it runs that little bit richer, just enough to keep it safe.

Start off turbo a turbo back exhaust as well as a FMIC setup. Wont cost you much and the car will run better.

The stock air box is fine along with the stock intake pipe, but if you want some noise get a pod filter, something like an APEXi power intake is good, try avoid foam filament filters.

Dont need to do much in the sense of a cold air intake, the stock stuff works the best. But if you do put a pod on try and shield it a little so it doesn't suck all the hot air in, but you wont have much issue with that at all..

With the FMIC and turbo back exhaust I would say its safe to boost your standard turbo up to about 12-13psi, I personally wouldn't go anymore as they are prone to break. Then if you want put a fuel pump in, BOSCH or a WALBRO as discussed and that will be fine.

Next step would be a bigger turbo, and a tune, at the same time if you want an after market set of injectors. GTR injectors are good for about 260rwkw + easy I believe.

Bit of a tip, if you want to go to about 190rwkw get your self an RB25 turbo, one in good condition. Be about $300 off the forums if that, set the boost to 14psi and get some sort of tune. APEXi SAFC II is a fuel only computer that will work, or alternatively for RB20 a REMAP ECU is the way to go. That will safely get you to 190rwkw.

If you want more go a high flow turbo or a GARRETT/HKS. Then just injectors and a tune and your looking at over 200rwkw.

Power may vary a little for you as your car is auto. There is a little more power loss from the fly wheel to the rear wheels with an auto, as oppose to a manual.

Few other tips to get your car going a little quicker. Auto shift kits to make the shifts between gears faster and harder, a high stall converter to get your car off the line quicker so you can get good launches, but thats all later down the track.

Hope some of that helps.

Abu

Yes that helps, thank you. Is the E-Manage fine? I dont know the price for the SAFC but the E-Manage is pretty cheap. Where would I get Auto Shift kits from as well as a high stall converter? Which brand of boost controller would you recommend?

Thanks

Help