Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Id have to say Kingston Park is the best place for kart hire in Brisbane

The circuit is electroniclly timed and they have suitable karts for the track layout, they also have good facilities and put on a hell of a corprate day...

But to be honest they are very very few kart hire joints in Brisbane it self so there is little to compair too...

The best used to be at the old airport terminal, but they had too many accidents and got closed down...

Their carts used to get up to 100kph easily and the track was the bomb with realy wide corners... Shame it was considered too dangerous...

  • 3 years later...

Just thought I would add my 2c. Went out to Nanango on Sunday 20/11/2011 and had an absolute blast! The track is top notch, with some brilliant, flat out, hold onto your pants corners and well placed technical sections to make sure you're working for each second. I've been there twice, totaling 2 hours on track time. First was a 30 min session about 6-8 months ago, then 3x30 min sessions on Sun. Mates hadn't been there before. I've posted the time sheets of my three sessions, to show average speeds, times that are achievable on the track, and the possible variation to karts performance. The spikes in lap times are caused by slowing down to let the other two catch up so that we could race in a competitive situation, not just as a TT style event. On the third session, I had the slower of the karts, and as such my times don't spike as much cause I'm trying to catch them, not slowing so they can catch me.

There was some pretty varied performance from kart to kart, with a couple being noticably quicker than others, tho that seemed to be more about tire degredation than power fluctuations. So note the condition of your tyres before mounting your beast. I will note, that when informed about the problems with the karts(one had flogged tyres, and one pulled to the left somewhat) , the mechanics were straight onto rectifying the problems.

The staff are more than friendly. The ladies behind the counter are always ready with a smile and that warm country comfort. The guy's on track were professional and quite helpful. Throughout the day (3 hours spent at the venue) there was a consistent flow of people throughout the day, with some cavernous gaps between skill and confidence levels. Being that we were on for the full 30 min session, they'd space the groups out so that we'd have 5-10 laps with the three of us goin hard out and allowing us to scrape every thou we could from the karts with minimal interfierence.

The seats are probably one of the more comfortable kart seats I've found. Still end up with some 'golf balling' on your back, as the seats are quite wide, but for a 1.5 hr session, my back wasn't half as sore as 3x10 min at KP.

Honestly, the only thing I could fault them on is being 2.5hrs from Brizzy. But I tell you people, it's worth it.

Prices as of 20/11/2011 were:

Membership (incl licence) $2

30 mins - $32

20 mins - ~$20

10 mins - ~$10

*Not sure about the 20 and 10 min prices. didn't pay that much attention.

If you want a nice road trip and a day karting with the boys/gals/fam, don't spend your money at Big Kart, or Landsbrough, or Krapston Park. Go for the drive, make a day of it. The country out there is beautiful, the people are a whole different breed, and you'll get 1.5hrs of on track thrashing for under $100 (total cost less fuel was $98ea incl licence) Fuel was about $50, but when everyone contributes, is only $10-$15pp. So, that's a 1.5hr day on the track for ~$110. True, it's quite the treck, but oh so worth it.

Am thinking of organising another trip out there in the not too distant future if anyone else would be interested in goin for a cruise. No date of yet, but hell, the more people we got out there the merrier! DON'T FORGET YOUR SUNSCREEN! (Got some narly burns on forearms and front of shins)

*note, I refer to KP a bit as my measuring stick as I worked there during the upgrade from the Le Mans track to the abomination they have now, and raced there a bit during my teenage years. I know lots has changed in the last 9 years, but there's so much that will always be the same. And knowing Terry, he'll still be runnin that place by the balls. :)

post-89212-0-00566200-1321851581_thumb.jpg

post-89212-0-52341200-1321851591_thumb.jpg

post-89212-0-12431900-1321851598_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
    • Can also confirm these work a treat for most balljoints and bushes. If you have access to a big rattle gun, they make the job so much easier and quicker, compared to using a socket wrench or shifter on the c-clamp 👍
    • Its sort of street but got used for circuit sprints on account of I never drive it on the road because I dont have the time to spare. So it usage was sits around for months at a time then gets driven either 50 or 250 kms to the track followed by 20 laps followed by 50 or 250kms home followed by stuck in the shed until next time. So yeah neither fish nor fowl. Just dont want to break it on the track as a preference. Hence the fairly short sensor/mod list. Probably more worried about it pinging itself to destruction more so than anything oil related.
    • My thing I'd be doing, is pulling it out, and just getting the tune cleaned up for now. Before that even happens, checking over everything, like vac hoses, fuel hoses, etc. No point dropping thousands on sensors if the moment you start it back up all the oil leaks out, or it has massive vacuum leaks etc.   But really, to know what to do, depends on what your use case is. Hard core track car? Throw most sensors available at it. Street car, I'd probably just run oil pressure, oil temps, water pressure, water temp, probably fuel pressure too. I don't know exactly what the Link can handle and do with those though. And if it's mainly just to cruise the streets, rather than mountain runs, you can probably skip most of the above if you've already got them in as gauges and warning lights.   PS, inb4 "sell it and buy a modern sportscar"
×
×
  • Create New...