Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppls,

http://www.nengun.com/nismo/big-operating-cylinder

Picked up a 25t box and have known about the nismo larger slave cylinder that reduces pedal effort.

My initial thoughts are as the cylinder is larger it requires the master cyl to displace more clutch fluid to completely disengage the clutch.

Has any one had experience with these larger clutch slave cylinders and with what clutch?

No issues with disengagement?

im about to start my 25t box conversion also, i will keep an eye on this tread

i had the speed sender units out of the two boxes yesterday, tyring to work out how im going to get the speedo working.

from this info i had from SK i thought it would be simple

1. I used an R33GTST slave cylinder, I don't remember seeing any difference to the R32GTST slave anyway.

2. I used a standard R32GTST speedo cable, the one the car always had

3. I used the inner half of the R33GTST speedo drive (the bit that goes in the gearbox) with the external part of the R32GTST speedo drive (the bit that connects to the speedo cable). They fit together perfectly.

but the speedo drives are one piece as far as i can tell and its not as simple as using half from each. i think some slightly custom shit is going to have to happen to get that working

sorry for the slight hijack but what do u plan to do to get the speedo working?

back on topic i got the 33 slave with my box, but was thinking about hitting up a nismo slave and the pivot fork thing. i think u should get one and tell me what its like ;)

1. I used an R33GTST slave cylinder, I don't remember seeing any difference to the R32GTST slave anyway.

The R33 slave has 2 bolt holes on the bottom of the cyl, the R32 GTST has one on the top one on the bottom. So different bolt up.

3. I used the inner half of the R33GTST speedo drive (the bit that goes in the gearbox) with the external part of the R32GTST speedo drive (the bit that connects to the speedo cable). They fit together perfectly.

but the speedo drives are one piece as far as i can tell and its not as simple as using half from each. i think some slightly custom shit is going to have to happen to get that working

Interesting.. So the bolt up bracket section bolts on to the rb25t box fine? How is the length between the two?

sorry for the slight hijack but what do u plan to do to get the speedo working?

I've been given a part number that is 'apparently' still available so I will be finding out about that tomorrow. If not.. Maybe head to a wreckers to try and find an appropriate navara.

back on topic i got the 33 slave with my box, but was thinking about hitting up a nismo slave and the pivot fork thing. i think u should get one and tell me what its like ;)

hahaha.

i might be missing some thing but i dont see what u would gain by going a larger slave

if you go bigger slave it will take more effort and stroke from the master

If it takes more stroke then that would mean less effort. Think of it as a leverage type thing.

A big arsed breaker bar requires more movement to provide half a turn of a bolt than what a small stubby ring spanner.

You will find the benefit of using the bigger slave two fold .

1) Less effort

2) More progresive pick up, so easier to drive in traffic.

No problems with the clutch disengaging at all mate , Its a Nismo product afterall and all nismo products are made well and work .

I have a Nismo Super Coppermix and a Nismo slave in my GTR , works perfect .

The R33 slave has 2 bolt holes on the bottom of the cyl, the R32 GTST has one on the top one on the bottom. So different bolt up.

Interesting.. So the bolt up bracket section bolts on to the rb25t box fine? How is the length between the two?

I've been given a part number that is 'apparently' still available so I will be finding out about that tomorrow. If not.. Maybe head to a wreckers to try and find an appropriate navara.

hahaha.

joel, i will use the 33 slave on the box never intended to use the 32 one if it was different to the 33. That was the info i got back from SK when i asked him awhile ago if i needed the 33 slave or not, as i remembered people debating it in another thread.

In regard to the speedo drives the 33 one is much longer than the r32 one. the r32 one obviously has a slot in the end u put the speedo cable in, i want to take this off and put it on the 33 drive but its not going to be easy as they appear to be one piece each :S I really need to talk to SK about this again and see if he can expain it further what is reqd.

also where are u ordering the slave from, will they do a better price for 2? :(

what clutch are u looking at getting joel?

the clutch i have at the momment is fantastic and the pedal isnt that much harder than stock. i have no issues with wanting it to be lighter or more controllable. i must admit it is only a single plate and when i go to a twin for the next motor i expect ill grab one of these nismo slaves then.

however maybe i should grab it now before they all dry up :(

i will try and get a pic comparing the speedo drives next time i have my car on the hoist in the shop...

I am looking at the exedy GTR 3puk sports ceramic. Apparently the GTR clutch has a tougher pressure plate.

What clutch are you using and with how much power?

Currently the 9puk xtreme XHD (heavy pedal) holds the power once the gear is selected BUT on quick changes it slips.

Granted it has done 70,000km's. lol

I am looking at the exedy GTR 3puk sports ceramic. Apparently the GTR clutch has a tougher pressure plate.

What clutch are you using and with how much power?

Currently the 9puk xtreme XHD (heavy pedal) holds the power once the gear is selected BUT on quick changes it slips.

Granted it has done 70,000km's. lol

i had direct clutch in brisbane do mine 5 years ago, i belive they modded the pressure plate and gave me a ceramic/organic clutch plate similar to a stock one.

The pedal is stuff all heavier that i can tell and never ever slips. i have piss all power tho, 214rwkw from a hks 2530 rb20.

im expecting when my rb30 or 31 is done it will need a twin plate, and from the talk here lately im leaning towards the nismo one. tho i might give direct anotehr call and see what they could do for me.

i went with them because around the time the were handling JUDGE's work and he had one of th emost powerful cars in the country before he died.

If i havent said the clutch is still as new, and ive given it a fair flogging.

the proof tho is probably in my rooted rb20 box :( well its not that bad just pretty noisy, i think the bearings are shagged

heading down the shop now, gotta grab some tools to remove my surge tank, its got a pin hole in it !!!

i used one with my nismo kunt tripple. it helped.

i put a os giken one in and it wasnt very good. (long travel to release) it was easy to crunch gears cos you gotta push alllll the way down on the pedal to disengage. i put the standard one back in. much better.

funny cause I had the exact same thing using the nismo slave with my OS tripple. clutch pedal needed to be depressed all the way or you had no hope. bought a brand new stock nissan one, sure pedal is a bit heavier but I find it easier to control and now works sweet as a nut. I've now used the stock slave with OS tripple and OS twin.

slave is dead easy to change. probably the easiest job you can do on a GTR next to putting fuel in it. the hardest part is getting down on the ground! basically go to the drivers side. jack the car up a bit. you'll see the slave on the side of the box. undo clutch hose, undo the two bolts. put new slave there. do up the two bolts do up the clutch line. undo the bleed nipple, bleed clutch. done. ;)

cubes. np. :D

one thing to remember is it's a pretty simple formula. larger bore means less travel, but lighter pedal. smaller bore means longer, faster travel, but more pedal effort needed.

slave is dead easy to change. probably the easiest job you can do on a GTR next to putting fuel in it. the hardest part is getting down on the ground! basically go to the drivers side. jack the car up a bit. you'll see the slave on the side of the box. undo clutch hose, undo the two bolts. put new slave there. do up the two bolts do up the clutch line. undo the bleed nipple, bleed clutch. done. ;)

cubes. np. :D

with bleeding the clutch if u only take the slave off do u only need to bleed it from the slave or the whole system

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Appreciate the feedback. It is street car, but not a daily. Last week I got a quote from a good exhaust shop for a decat, one which is bolt-on, bolt-off to be easily replaceable. I got quoted for around €150. I usually do push the motor, but I wasn't in this case to make sure that no damage is done until I get the cat sorted. I think it's best to also ask the exhaust shop for the other option and see what they can do. If (big if) I were to decat though, would it be best to tune the car or would the stock ECU handle it? As far as I know, the stock ECU is not tunable and that would require additional purchases.
    • As above, definitely bash it or get it replaced with a high flow unit.
    • get some flares on them, or wider guards haha
    • Another question sorry, what stainless do u use in the turbo external WG plumb back piping? Is it 321, 316 or 304?
    • Right, its been a while for updating this car, but I made some small but important progress today. In the end I bought an Ecutek dongle from the Australian distributor Tunehouse (for local hardware support) but have gone with a remote tune from Racebox in the US (because they have done millions of these, and I could not find any tuner where I could access the tune anyway as they are all password locked). The App is reasonably easy to work with, but the PC software reminds me of Haltech's ECU Manager that you need to use with the Plat Pro ECUs, it is a nightmare.  Anyway, I sent the details over, got back a tune file and a request for data logs. I finally got a chance to access a private test track today as they want redline logs in 3rd and 4th, and have sent them back for the first round of reviews. The main difference in the tune is going from 1.0 (stock) to 1.3 bar (19psi), although I'm sure is a lot of other stuff in the background. Keeping in mind this is a dead stock car with 125,000klm, this is what the App's performance test claimed: Before After Interesting to note that both 400m tests had the same terminal speed (158klm/h) but different ETs. And no, the speed limiter seems to be higher than that at 186kl/h. Summary of the key logged parameters for the 3rd and 4th gear runs were: Those little turbos were certainly whizzing at 200,000rpm+.  Also I'm really not that excited about oil pressure 55psi at redline so I think I'll go thicker than 5w30 (nissan recommend 0w20....) and see if that improves it. Other than that (and the big boost spike....) everything looks good as a start to me.
×
×
  • Create New...