Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok from the start....

Ive got a Greddy Informeter which tells me the water temp, 02 sensor voltage etc in the car and over the last month or so ive noticed the water temp goin up, i think its even hit 100 degrees!

Anyway, i babied it to the mechanic and basically flushed out the coolant and replaced the thermostat.

Got it back and still running a bit hot. Mind you the standard gauge was sitting on normal.

Decided to take it back and do a 100K service which included the water pump, belts, spark lugs etc...Still running hot when i got it back, i think i even saw it go past 100 and the standard gauge went up about 10mm! Obviously the Oil temp went up also, it hits about 100-110.

There are no coolant leaks, no discloured or bubbley coolant so i dont think its a headgasket, ive have replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor on top of the block, bled the system again and again.

I notice when i put the foot down the temp will rise, but steady driving it will sit on about 96 - 100.

I put the heater on flat out to cool the engie down and that seems to work.

PLEASE HELP DIAGNOSE! searching hasnt helped much.

Could it be that the fan belt is a bit loose and not working to its full potential cos i have a hunch its loose??

I friggin pamper this car and never miss a service.

Of course check the fan belt. (Although you would also have battery troubles.)

Are you still running the factory VC fan? And the shroud? Cams are not out of alignment? Timing is correct?

are you sure you have a reliable baseline to compare to?

you state that your standard temp guage looks ok .. so I guess what I am trying to say is are you sure all the other 34's dont operate at this range?

maybe just because you can now see a numerical readout of the temperature vs a guage readout your just a tad paranoid? I was under the impression ( and someome PLEASE correct me if I am wrong ) that standard radiator systems can get close to and above 100 oC ( boiling ) and not boil over because they are a sealed system

I am by no means an overheating guru but thats just my thoughts on the matter.

Workshop guide states that it should run between 82 - 95 degrees.

Thats what it used run before the temps started to rise.

I thought the standard gauges only start to rise when the system is getting very hot.

I'm with ssshonky...if the standard gauges read normal then you should be fine? IF you didn't have the Greedy infometer you wouldn't have a clue and think tht everything is ok? Unless you had the infometer prior and it was reading lower? If you get what I mean?

I know what you mean, but when the Greddy digital gauge shows past 100 degrees, the standard gauge starts moving up, and thats with normal driving.

Is there another sensor that could be playing up by any chance?

I know what you mean, but when the Greddy digital gauge shows past 100 degrees, the standard gauge starts moving up, and thats with normal driving.

Is there another sensor that could be playing up by any chance?

Ah ok, if the standard water temp gauge starts moving up then u may have an issue. Mines never gone past the normal spot just below middle.

Did you actually flush the radiator? or just drop the fluid? theres a difference.

In my old car I did the latter which actually caused a blockage which caused to overheat constantly until sorted.

I'd recommend taking getting it looked at by a radiator service place (like NATRAD) and get it flushed properly.

But try tightening belts first...

Ok from the start....

Ive got a Greddy Informeter which tells me the water temp, 02 sensor voltage etc in the car and over the last month or so ive noticed the water temp goin up, i think its even hit 100 degrees!

Anyway, i babied it to the mechanic and basically flushed out the coolant and replaced the thermostat.

Got it back and still running a bit hot. Mind you the standard gauge was sitting on normal.

Decided to take it back and do a 100K service which included the water pump, belts, spark lugs etc...Still running hot when i got it back, i think i even saw it go past 100 and the standard gauge went up about 10mm! Obviously the Oil temp went up also, it hits about 100-110.

There are no coolant leaks, no discloured or bubbley coolant so i dont think its a headgasket, ive have replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor on top of the block, bled the system again and again.

I notice when i put the foot down the temp will rise, but steady driving it will sit on about 96 - 100.

I put the heater on flat out to cool the engie down and that seems to work.

PLEASE HELP DIAGNOSE! searching hasnt helped much.

Could it be that the fan belt is a bit loose and not working to its full potential cos i have a hunch its loose??

I friggin pamper this car and never miss a service.

Hi mate,

Firstly i used to have the same issue in my old gtr,

Turned out to be the radiator's top tank was clog up, i removed it, took it to a radiator shop, had the top tank removed, clean + new seal, $85 and the heating issue was gone.

Also after you've flush the radiator, while toping up the coolant again, did you jack the car up a bit, had the heater at full blast and bleed it through that little screw on the side of the block?

yeh the use of the bleed screw is good information indeed! perhaps a pocket of air is causing problems

so the Greddy guage has its own sensor.. so if the 2 ( the Greddy and the factory guage ) both increase at the same time you can basically remove the possibility of one of the sensors being dodgy.

now.. I am not sure on the skyline motors but on the sr20det's I know there are 2 temp senders

one that sends info to the guage and another that feeds the ECU the engine temp .

so maybe clean and re-seat your temp sender?

Is there a menu in the Greddy thingie somewhere for calibrating it to your sensors? Next tiem you start teh car from cold see what it is reading. If its reading 20deg higher then ambient or somethintg weird then can it and just go on the std gauge

I have the same problem at present, I have taken the theromstat out which didn't open at all, fixed that problem

and temps still read 95 degrees.

I have now got a GTR N1 water pump comming, and am taking the radiator out to get it flushed tomorrow.

hopefully this solves the issue.

My bros r33 gtst has an apexi water temp gauge and it sits on 78 degress all day long, no matter if you boot it or not.

100degrees is too hot for a rb and it is not normal. In saying that its not in the temp range to do damage, but its definately not at the proper operating range. You said that if you put your foot down that it starts to climb. This shows that there is a restriction in your cooling system, and as you start giving your car a flogging, it creates more heat and if the cooling system can't disperse this heat obviously your temp will rise.

So, luckily cooling systems are relatively simple and you have covered the main areas already:

- new water pump

- new themostat (is this genuine? i will never still aftermarket thermostats in any of my cars, i have had too many straight out the box not working right and actually causing overheating)

-new coolant

-radiator cap (cooling systems rely on pressure to work correctly, if you have a dodgy radiator cap that releases pressure too low, this can also cause overheating)

-headgasket (generally this is a last resort, but if your oil is milky or you coolant smells like exhaust this could be the problem, but unlikely)

-hoses (its not leaking so i assume they are ok)

-radiator

My guess would to take the radiator out and get it cleaned like it has been said above. It is the most likely cause for overheating, especially if the coolant hasnt been changed in a long time.

Edited by R34GTFOUR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No-one in Aus/NZ would pay that much, because they remember when a turbo Skyline/Silvia was a cheap but awesome alternative to the mediocre shit sold here locally at the time. I'm sure over in USA there are enough trust fund kids who will have their R34 GTR, whatever the cost
    • I am stuck with enthusiast and very unhappy, even though Lumley, Shannons and Famous are all options, they all require a lock up garage, and my situation (basically a walled off compound from the street) is insufficient because the car is under a carport. I'm confident to resolve the situation I need to build a roller door with fascia in-front of my roller gate which is a solid opaque metal rolling gate. In any other universe moving the roller door 2 meters in-front of the garage door would still constitute the same amount of security but oh no. My insurance rates suck to the point of when I joined a market research for Enthusiast they were all surprised that I paid about 2-3x what other people were paying with Enthusiast when I asked them why their rates were so high. If I lie about having a garage, I save like $10 a month with enthusiast. (It's about $2600 p.a for 5000km of driving for a very unsustainable agreed value). Lumley has terrible reviews but @Duncan made me consider calling them when renew time came up - but their horrible reviews plus Christmas time made me... forget.
    • Not far. If all you want to do is know that they will reciprocate and move oil around a tiny bit, then a metre or so is all you need. Half metre fore and aft is enough.
    • That's the spirit!
    • It's fine. Basically if it has seized (eg due to moisture/rust in the bores) it will either break free on the starter or it won't turn....then you'll know it is freed up If it turns and doesn't start (reasonably likely) you will need to troubleshoot but most likely issue is a seized injector from moisture; same if it starts but missfires. Anything else could have happened (eg mice nibbling electricals) but the only way to find out is to close your eyes and hit the key I'd also change the fuel filter again after a few minutes of running as it may catch a heap of crap on first start
×
×
  • Create New...