Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

Using the basic TIEN (height only adjustable) coilovers with pillow ball tops in them, Its been brought to my attention by a few people lately that they are noisy as hell. Everytime i go over a bump they make noisy clunking noises. It seems to be getting louder and louder...They are still very stiff, they aren't showing much sign of wear except for this...or is this normal for pillow ball tops?

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184453-noisy-coilovers/
Share on other sites

Ive got TEIN Coilovers and they are silent, but mine are the ones that are re-designed by Fulcrum to better suit Aus roads.

Are yours imported?

If they are they're probably not very well suited to Australian roads and they will be extremely stiff, a friend of mine put Jap spec TEIN's in his R33 and it was so stiff that you needed a kidney belt to ride in it and they were also very clunky, it sounded as if they were loose but we checked every bolt and they were all fine, I think it has something to do with the internals of the shock- when they get older they start to get very noisey, so he took them out.

However Ive had mine for about 12 months now and they are as quiet as they were when they were new.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184453-noisy-coilovers/#findComment-3341041
Share on other sites

I got Teins Super Streets and mine only make a clunk noise if i hit a bump which i would expect lol - But my rear left hand side one does squeek but haven't had time to remove back seat to check it isn't anything in there but apart from that silent.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184453-noisy-coilovers/#findComment-3341785
Share on other sites

I've got tein ha coilovers (Jap spec) at the moment and the rear ones clunk, especially at low speeds. They still work fine, but am sure somethings loose inside or worn out.

I like the way they ride, so going to Aus spec one's will be softer and I'll need to get some whiteline swaybars to reduce the bodyroll I'm gonna get!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184453-noisy-coilovers/#findComment-3341820
Share on other sites

Unfortunately, that's just the way Tein HR's (HR's are high springrate coilovers just like HA's, but without all the adjustability) end up after a while. Most are fairly old now and just about every car I've been in that's had them rattled like crazy. I say time for an upgrade! :)

Edited by AZN25T
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184453-noisy-coilovers/#findComment-3345191
Share on other sites

yea its kinda rattley... i just had a look and it says HR on them.....what sort are these...everything is tight...didnt check the top of the strut towers tho....they didn't move at all with a bit of persuasion

hr's are as stiff as sh*t and ha's i have a half set of each sitting in the shed for that reason,go and grab some of the aus spec ones handles and rides like a completely different car.also when i pulled my hr coilovers out and pulled them apart they had next to no oil left in them!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184453-noisy-coilovers/#findComment-3345785
Share on other sites

My experience with Tein suspension has been a nightmare. :kiss:. They are the stiff-est i've came across. Have since changed them to HKS suspension.

Those with jap spec teins might want to send them to Fulcrum to get them reconditioned when they start to make noises. Fulcrum will probably rebuild them to be more suitable for australian roads.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184453-noisy-coilovers/#findComment-3345882
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...