Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tryna suss a hard pipe kit for the 33GTST. Any one know a ball park figure and probs best place to suss one?

alsooo lookin at sectioning my air intake from the rest of the engine bay jus to stop prevent runnin hot under hood air through it. Whats ideas on that?!icon2.gif

Cheers icon6.gif

Brock

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184482-hard-pip-kit/
Share on other sites

The N/A intake pipe is very different to the turbo one. On the NA its prob best to leave the intake piping alone and just get a high flow panel filter or if you like a pod with a cold air in take. By changing the intake pipe you are losing the box that is connected to the pipe. This box is there for two reasons.

1. To quiet down induction noise. (who really cares)

2. It is a box that has been made with a calculated volume to give best response. In other words, this box fills up and holds air really close to your engine so as soon as its needed, its right there and doesn't need to pass through the filter etc.

The second reason will tell you that changing your intake pipe will actually decrease your response.

I do agree though. A nice stainless pipe would look much better :D but it unfortunately comes with a negative result

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184482-hard-pip-kit/#findComment-3340867
Share on other sites

Ah cheers,

sigh, i was looking forward to a nice shiney pipe.

mates have got commodores and the like and say it flows better than the plactice pipe..

but didnt take into account that box thing that looks like a block of chocolate.

Im running a pod atm but i need some sort of housing as it's just sucking in hot air from the engine bay,

would it be better to buy one of those plastic shield things you see at supercheap or to try and re-route the piping to the front of your kit someplace?

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184482-hard-pip-kit/#findComment-3341192
Share on other sites

The second reason will tell you that changing your intake pipe will actually decrease your response.

That apply for Turboed too???

Also my mate that works for nissan says the hard pipe will give you a nicer flutter too, is thus truue?

Cheeersicon6.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184482-hard-pip-kit/#findComment-3342086
Share on other sites

That apply for Turboed too???

Also my mate that works for nissan says the hard pipe will give you a nicer flutter too, is thus truue?

Cheeers

Its not the same for turbo models. You'll notice tiurbo models don't even have this box at all. The reason for this is a turbo provides forced induction. This means that the response is forced. While there may be lag before the turbo spools, the response is a lot bigger when a turbo is forcing air down the intake pipe.

Any change to your intake will change the sound of the flutter, bov and induction noise. It all comes down to preference I guess

Ah cheers,

sigh, i was looking forward to a nice shiney pipe.

mates have got commodores and the like and say it flows better than the plactice pipe..

but didnt take into account that box thing that looks like a block of chocolate.

Im running a pod atm but i need some sort of housing as it's just sucking in hot air from the engine bay,

would it be better to buy one of those plastic shield things you see at supercheap or to try and re-route the piping to the front of your kit someplace?

I agree, the shiney piping looks hot, but not worth while in this case. Have a look at a stocko commodore intake pipe and then compare it to the aftermarket one your friend has. The intake setup on a commodore is totally different to an RB.

Definately get a cold air intake for your pod. It will make a big difference. Some people have even said their performance drops by having a pod open in the engine bay and went back to the stock air box. A cold air intake will fix this. Get something made from stainless. It will sheild the heat much better than a plastic sheild. And piping to the front of your kit would be good too.

You will notice indents under your air filter that look like they forgot to cut two holes. This is where the turbo models piping for their side mount intercoolers run through. You can cut a hole there to feed your air filter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184482-hard-pip-kit/#findComment-3342692
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Plazmaman 76mm Pro Series, done. Data to back it up, I posted up somewhere here a few years back
    • So.....wire it up appropriately. You can't use the resister pack with those injectors anyway.
    • that’s the thing i’m on ID1050s and haltech not getting power due to the injector resistor 
    • ahh okay cheers, i was thinking of just going for the m073, think m079 would be way too overkill considering they are same size. 
    • My first car was a HG. I'm very familiar with them. A mild cam upgrade is a good idea. The 186 is a very flexible engine - meaning it has good torque from down low. You can give up a little torque down low for quite a lot more excitement in the mid range, and a bit more up top - but they are not exactly a rev monster. You need to upgrade valve springs at the minimum. For a bigger cam, you'd want to make sure it wasn't still running the original fibre cam gear. That would be unlikely, given that most of them shat themselves in the 70s and 80s, but still within the realms of possibility. Metal cam gear required. Carbies are a huge issue. The classic upgrade was always a Holley 350, which works, but is usually pretty bad for fuel consumption. The 186S had a 2 barrel Stromberg on it that was very similar to the one on the 253, and is a reasonable thing if you can find one, and find someone to help you get it set up (which is the same issue with setting up a 350 to work nice). The more classic upgrade was twin sidedraught CD type carbs, or triples of same, or triple Webers. The XU-1 triple Webers being the best example. You can still buy all this stuff new, I think, but it's a lot of coin to drop. And then the people able to set them up are getting fewer and further in between. There's still some, but it used to be everyone's** dad and uncle could do it. **Not everyone's! But a lot. All in all, I wouldn't get too carried away with the engine. Anything you do to it without a full rebuild for power and revs will only make it slightly faster. I am all in favour of a complete teardown rebuild, with nice rods and pistons, 10 or 10.5:1 compression, and a clean port job with at least a big enough cam to run 98 with that compression, if not bigger. And if I did that to a dirty old red motor, I'd want to inject it too, which I'd struggle to fight against the devil on my shoulder that would argue for ITBs and trumpets. But the bills would start to mount up, and it will still never make stupid power. OK, a few people still know how to build absolutely mental red motors, courtesy of the work that went into HQ racing and modern knowledge being applied. But even a 300HP red motor is no match for an RB20 with a TD06. So you have to decide what it's worth to you. I'd just put a set of 6>2>1 extractors, a 2.5" exhaust and an electronic ignition conversion/dizzy on it and just run the old girl like the fairly slow old girl that she really is.
×
×
  • Create New...