Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All parts available at the moment, i have made a short list of parts, but if theres something that you want and i havn't listed it pm me.

located in Clayton, S.E Suburbs

Take the lot for $600 (- brakes, bov)

Parts available

Front calipers, rotors, pads $400

Brake master cylinder $80

Diff was 300 Now: $250

Tailshaft was 150 Now $100

CLutch Master Cylinder was 100 Now $70

Full doors was 500 Now $150

Cabin Light was $30 Now 10

Passenger Seat (cleanable stain) was $120 Now 50

Drivers Seat was $150 Now 80

Roof Lining $30

Carpet $40

Jesus Handles $20 pair

Vents $10 each

Handbrake $120

Passenger Window Control $80

Handbrake Skin $10

Under steering wheel plastic $20

Indicator Stalk $50

Wiper Stalk $50

Sports Wheel & Boss kit $100

Steering Column Surround $30

Rear view mirror $20

Fusebox $30

Seatbelts $50 pair

Rear Seatbelts $30 pair

A Pillar plastics $50 pair

B/C Pillar plastics $60 pair

Front wipers and motors $60

Rear wiper and motor $60

Washer bottle $20

Overflow bottle $100

Air Conditioner (full system) $100

Rear window $100

Drivers window $70

Passengers window $70

Drivers ¼ window $40

Passenger ¼ window $40

Added: 1 x stage2 BOV with adapter for 33 and possibly 32/34: Asking: $150ONO

post-22920-1193925157_thumb.jpgpost-22920-1193925021_thumb.jpg

Photo's: taken off due to loading time, PM for pics

post-22920-1189432965_thumb.jpg

post-22920-1190989712.jpg

post-22920-1193140011_thumb.jpg

post-22920-1193140065_thumb.jpg

post-22920-1193140255_thumb.jpg

post-22920-1193140412_thumb.jpg

post-22920-1193140461_thumb.jpg

post-22920-1193140555_thumb.jpg

post-22920-1193924974_thumb.jpg

Edited by Taso84
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184498-all-sold-sorry-guys/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Do you have the B pillar interior plastics?? The bit between the front doors and the rear 1/4 glass? Some moron installed tweeters there in my car and I want to replace em....

Just the top parts between the glass... never looked at em closely but I imagine its two seperate pieces!

yes selling the whole thing 2gether, do u want drivers or passenger seat?

Price has been posted

cheers

Both sides please! Can you PM details

Cheers,

Anna

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...