Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey anyone know how to remove the rear hubs on a r33. ? from what i see you remove the caliper and then remove the split pin and try and undo the bloody big nut . after that is the hub pressed on or should it come loose at this stage .?

i need to remove the hub to replace a damaged stud

chees mid life crisis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184582-rear-hubs-removal/
Share on other sites

hey anyone know how to remove the rear hubs on a r33. ? from what i see you remove the caliper and then remove the split pin and try and undo the bloody big nut . after that is the hub pressed on or should it come loose at this stage .?

i need to remove the hub to replace a damaged stud

chees mid life crisis

it's ok fig it out

How did you do it? Please tell me. Bob jane stripped my rear one, and i cant take it back, coz i dont hav receit.

ok you dont have to take the hub off thats that makes it a lot easier

1 take wheel off

2 remove rear caliper just undo the 2 17 mm bolts and pull to one side

3 in the disc there are 2 holes with a thread in them about 10 mm i think find 2 bolts and screw in to the holes a little bit each side this will pull the disc of the hub . make sure handbrake is off

4 tap the damaged stud out with a hammer the stud will land amongst the handbrake assembly u might need a magnetic screwdriver to help dig it out

5 push new stud into the hole as far as you can . find a nut thats bigger than the thread and put over stud then put on wheel nut and tighten till the stud is in all the way remove wheelnut and nut

6 put disc back on then caliper and the wheel job done took me about 1/2 hr once i fig out how to do it stud cost about 5 bucks

hopes this helps

cheers dean

  • 8 months later...

Good procedure man, I was trying to take the whole hub off, but this way is probably a lot quiker and easier. I had to replace 3 studs in the same hub because of dodgy tyre factories, and it took me about 45mins all up for removal of tyre, to calipers to disc, to studs and all back on again.

Trust me this way works good thanks man

:D

  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...