Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well Yahoo have gone and turned away more customer's with their bizzare policies. They no longer accept foreign credit cards to sign up for new auction accounts and old auction accounts can not change to foreign credit cards either.

Making it harder on Aussies.

Well Yahoo have gone and turned away more customer's with their bizzare policies. They no longer accept foreign credit cards to sign up for new auction accounts and old auction accounts can not change to foreign credit cards either.

Making it harder on Aussies.

but 90% of the auctions dont ship international, so even if you sign up, what is the point?

i may not mind using my credit cards and account to buy stuff for other people on line but ill be asking for a brokering fee and postage of course...

wonder if that appeals to anyone...

i may not mind using my credit cards and account to buy stuff for other people on line but ill be asking for a brokering fee and postage of course...

wonder if that appeals to anyone...

not exactly revolutionary... you'll have to match or better rates that other ex-pats offer... and rinkya. the margins are so low these days its usually not worth the headaches.

not exactly revolutionary... you'll have to match or better rates that other ex-pats offer... and rinkya. the margins are so low these days its usually not worth the headaches.

that and when the retarded AUD does shit like this it sure doesnt help either...

http://au.finance.yahoo.com/currency/conve...;amt=1&t=5d

LOL at the current rate being well off the bottom of the graph!

still if you do some research and make some contacts you can see how much margin rinkya, nengun and greenline have and can undercut them.

Edited by Streeter

Is a personal import from japan into Australia permissible for any car.

Or put another wa,y will DOTRS in Canberra issue an import certificate for any car, eg diesal/petrol.

Can I stay in Japan but send the vehicle to oz ,or must I arrive before the vehicle?

  • 4 weeks later...

I am sure the link with ebay will fall to bits due to people without money to pay for items winning them. It is the main problem I have had dealing with Australians. It is easy to spot an overseas buyer as they usually have a lot of bad feedback with cancellations. My record is clean so far but I had a number of "headaches" from SAU members who seemed to think that I was running a layby scheme under the bonnet of their cars.

It is interesting that a number of auctions now specifically say "if you are foreign or can't speak Japanese don't bid"

Had to sign up to get the info... :banana:

Import Monsters fee – Minimum 2500yen, then 25% of the purchase price up to a maximum of 25000yen. So even if you bid 500000yen, the maximum fee you will pay is 25000yen

its good... if you dont like money! LOL

I guess they have a lot of ppl to pay so that kind of operation would cost a lot to run, not hard to undercut them by a fair margin though.

Edited by Streeter
Well here it is... my first ever bilingual auction!

I am not sure how I can find it through eBay but it had a seperate part for an English description.

http://page22.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/l5001090

yea looks orite i guess, but you had to type that out in English didnt you? so it doesn't translate plain Japaneses text :banana:

unless most sellers actually start shipping internationally its still crap.

yea looks orite i guess, but you had to type that out in English didnt you? so it doesn't translate plain Japaneses text :(

unless most sellers actually start shipping internationally its still crap.

Actually it does have the option to translate the text automatically, but obviously that is limited by the quality of the translation software.

Hehe, if anyone has seen your car Streeter they will know you really should charge more... :banana:

post-662-1198256122_thumb.jpg

Edited by Laurence

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 99.9% of them are viscous diffs. The 0.01% are helicals. They were only option-able in the series 2, as well. I have redline heavy shockproof in my helical. It seems... fine? I don't think anyone is ever going to know until something really breaks and at that point I'm not sure anyone will blame the oil. I just chose it because it's extremely heavy duty and my car will see not-road-legal duty for it. I've also had sadness with various diff oils in the past sweating out everywhere and/or other 'fun' things, with clutch diffs. Given you have a 1.5 way on the shelf, I'd not even bother with the diff in the car and just get to tinkering with it. I would spend the $90 on oil toward the labor of someone else putting the diff in if time poor even lol.
    • I believe mine is helical and not clutch type. During drifting one wheel was spining as if it was open diff so bought kazz 1.5 way and has sat on my shelf for the past 5 years as I want to learn shiming process and do it myself   in meantime thought I change the diff oil hence post here. So any 75-90?   i am pretty sure r34 are helical not clutch lsd as standard . That is gtt ones
    • Throw between gears are so much that is getting annoying. I have pro short shifter on my mx5 and e36 and love it . Skyline is getting unbearable    would syncro issues and short shifter is no no? Anyone mind explaining a little on why before i buy cube
    • No. Well, some people "seem to use redline shockproof in the diff". Most do not. I would only contemplate it if you have badly worn CW&P gears. And no. No-one in their right mind has ever put ATF into a diff. Any normal diff/gear oil of the right viscosity will do. Whatever takes your fancy. Castrol, Nulon, Penrite, Redline MT range. Whatever. It's just gears. 75W-90 or 80W-90 is typical. I think that GL-5 is hard to avoid these days, although I think that a GL-4 is probably preferred, given the vintage of the equipment. At least Redline offer a number of GL-4 oils. If you have a clutch type LSD instead of the VLSD, then of course you need a proper LSD oil. Anything from any of the same names above. If you have a helical LSD, then it does not require LSD oil, and the recco is the same as for the VLSD. You don't want the LSD friction modifiers in the oil for a non-clutch type LSD if you can avoid it.  
    • You may want to list it up for a little higher - This price is much lower than you may realize. Here you're pretty much selling to people who most likely already have these things on their own rigs. S chassis people eat this stuff up like you'd not believe.
×
×
  • Create New...