Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well I figure since you drive it hard the dogbox is probably the smart choice for you. should be good fun when it's set up with the ign cut shift too. :P

i wish i was "allowed" to get one too...

ive got an Autronic SM4 with ignition cut shift too, coupled with a straight cut dog box would be heaven.

life is so unfair....or should that be "wife" is so unfair?

Disclaimer: although the above post was made on this account, it is not necessarily Paul that wrote it. Just incase Stacey is reading it.

what problems did you have with the ppg? and what bits needed replacing? did you have an ignition cut on the ecu for gearchanges? and did you use the clutch with it?

once this gearbox is in. it will be 70/30 track/street. thats what lary the laser is for :(

I broke 2 small input shafts, lay shaft bearing and need to replace 2nd gear. No ignition cut. I always double clutch on downshift on the race track and during slow driving around the street

Hey Guys still trying to get used to the box, just a qwuick question. When your just driving around normally(not on the track) do you find that you have to shift slowly and in 2 stages rather than just trying to smash it in like you would when flat out??

As it seems to be wearing in it is becoming a little harder to use around town.

Cheers guys talk soon

Matty

I found the same thing. The delay from shifting in 2 stages allows the gears speeds to match. I find double clutching on upshift (and down shift as well) on the street doesn't produce any noise what so ever during shift.....very gentle and graceful. Flat out driving there is only one joyful way of doing it as R33 racer stated. However I still have occasional trouble with 1-->2nd and often use the clutch for this. Does anyone have any special trick with 1-->2nd?

cool. yeah i would be getting the larger input shaft option. and all brand new bearings. and also will be making a spraybar for inside the gearbox to directly spray oil on each gear. havent quite got it started yet. either using a pump of the tailshaft or an eletric one.

do the straight cut gears suffer from lubrication issues in the gtr casing?

matty

when we are just chugging around, i have found being really forceful with the change is best. If i just lazily put it into gear in most cases it will chatter on the dog gears and feel rather harsh. best to be acertive with it even at slow speeds.

cheers russ cya soon , congrats again mate on the pittsworth win!!

Cheers guys was a good weekend. Yeah i suppose experience with it is the only way to figure it out properly. Im finding that when im just "chugging around" and try changing forcefully it jars my wrist every time as it seems to jump before it engages. How long did it take you to get it into 3rd 1st time everytime?? I keep seeming to either get 1st or 5th lol.

Cheers

Talk soon

Something else to watch out for is oil being pumped out the breather. I run straight cut ppg with redline light weight shock proof oil and i have problems with the oil coming out the breather. Does anyone else have the same problem with there box? I added a longer hose and run it up into the engine bay to the highest point not the best solution but it has stoped losing oil. I think i might have to pull the box down and install a shield where the breather pipe is.

with the breathing thing I know john runs on both diff and gearbox basically an expansion tank. so he runs the breather up to a small tank which is ventilated. the GB oil can be thrown up into this little tank, then drain back into the box. basically just like the radiator expansion tank. seems like a good, simple idea. could be worth a go.

33 racer which oil do you use? If the breather problem can be solved down in the gearbox instead of further up in the pipe we can have a breather that will do what it designed for... What i thinks happening in my box is the light weight shock proof is very sticky and the gears are flicking it up onto the roof of the gearbox then with slight pressure the box create it pushes it up the pipe. Now im not sure if we have enough room above the gears to install something like a baffle to deflet some of the oil away from the breather. Does anyone have a box thats in pieces at the moment to check out if this is possible?

were using the shock proof light i think it is, the blue one which ppg recommended for the box.

We dont have a box in pieces unfortunately, however i reckon the mini catch can with drain back would work well for it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok, so first round of maintenance done. I didn't get much history with the car but I know it was well looked after. That isn't enough for me though, so ...  I had to do the oil filter housing gasket. It was leaking a lot, and also as part of that I did the anti-return valve and the VANOS oil line (from HEL).  But, then I got hit with the while-ya-in-there's. Did both accessory and A/C belts, tensioners and pulley. The accessory belt that came off had a huge hole in it, like somebody hung it up with a nail. The pulley and tensioners seem ok, so I'll keep those just in case. I did water pump and pump pulley. The water pump had a small bit of play so timing was good.  I also did fan clutch. I don't know how to test the old one but between the water pump and the fan clutch the car is running a little bit cooler (not much ~2 - 3 degrees maybe) so good result. Unfortunately the thermostat and housing didn't turn up in time so I'll shelve those. I have no concerns at all on the current ones.  Then I spent what seemed like 40 days and 40 nights bleeding the air from the cooling system. She also got new air filter, fuel filter and did a Mobil 1 change with oil filter. Hilariously, not an hour after telling my wife how proud I was of myself to be going slowly and meticulously and making sure everything was torqued and nothing missing I went and started it without the oil filter in. The car complained immediately of no pressure and after only a few seconds I turned it off and discovered a shit tonne of oil on the driveway. Sigh. I've driven it since and thankfully doesn't seem to be any problems. AND THEN during the test drive a ratchet extension fell into the battery area in the boot and JAMMED right next to the positive terminal and the car body. Like, just touching it made sparks and it was jammed in there. So, almost killed the engine and then almost burned the car to a crisp. Good start. This was the rails under the splash guards. So stoked, she's straight as and super clean. No rust anywhere. There was a heap of caked dirt that I removed but otherwise looked great. All 4 jacking points are perfect.   Next I want to service the gearbox. Sometimes it's a little reluctant to shift up and I'm hoping a fluid change will sort it. I also have 4 new rear subframe bushes. They're as big as a toddler. I'm renting a tool to help put them in. I can't wait for this because its a bit crashy back there at the moment.  
    • Remember when those donkeys kept using freedom units and smashed that satellite to bits on the moon? NASA has their brain switched on and uses the metric system.
    • Don't use "gasless MIG" (FCAW) you want to use proper MIG. FCAW burns a few hundred degrees hotter than MIG will for mild steel. It is a true ball ache for sheet metal. New MIG / TIG machines even have features like "Spot Weld" as well as "Automatic" settings. Plenty of people say for DIY home hobby, the auto machines are pretty good for 95% of welding. I personally, I'm a sucker for punishment and wanting to dial it in, and be able to adjust the machine. Mainly because I used to MIG weld for a living, and being able to tweak and tune things ever so slightly was my preference. Hence when I bought my ACDC TIG, it has all the adjustments for everything and no "easy" mode. Ha ha I have stick, MIG, "gaslessMIG" and ACDC TIG at home. Out of them, if you're doing mild steel sheet metal repair, and want to do mild steel exhausts, go MIG. If you're thinking you'll want to get into doing some aluminium stuff, or stainless steel, get an ACDC TIG with HF start. If you can, get one with a foot pedal too. My MIG machine is a UniMIG, and my Stick/TIG is CigWeld. If I were buying another machine, I'd buy another CIGWeld. Lots of people having issues with UniMIG, and them not wanting to cover warranty. Everything has to go back to UNIMig themselves. CIGWeld, I've had to use their warranty on my machine for a gas leak, they have repair centres everywhere, (contracted authorised repair centres). First repair place I used were hopeless, but the second place were amazing. Warranty process itself super easy, and second repair place was telling me CigWeld actually cover in their warranty, upto an hour of techs time to help you with your machine, and going through the settings and helping teach you the machine. UniMIG keep trying to get out of replacing motherboards on 12 month old machines.   TLDR, mild steel sheet welding, buy a MIG. my vote is CigWeld for brand.
    • I guess that's what happens when someone can't convert metric to freedom units to machine something. 😛
    • I've watched some vids and the technique seems to be to butt the sheets up to one another and use MIG to spot weld and slowly fill in the spots until its eventually all sealed. No runs as you would normally do, as there's too much heat generated that way. Yeah my stick welds are terrible these days because its been so long since i've done any of it. I expect to be spending many hours practicing
×
×
  • Create New...