Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

to be quiet honest if i end up selling this car, i might go for a 32 4 door shell n put in a rb25 again, the amount of tourque u get compared to the 20 is heaps good,

Out of interest can you post a dyno graph?

No doubt you get more low to mid range with the RB25. But i have noticed that an RB20 will often make the same power from about 4,000-4,200rpm onwards, about 110km/h. So sure you have more low end grunt which is nice for tootling around on the street. BUT, how often do you actually drive through the 2,500-4,000rpm range when you are up and trying to go quickly?

So, based on that alone i have stuck with the RB20. Its as quick as the RB25 etc R32 GTSts getting around when you are up it and having a go....and on the street its still nice and tractable...its just not punchy. I dont care if a bloke comes out of a 20km/h roundabout and pulls away from me. Im going for milk not a lap time. LOL its at the track where you can use the power that it matters to me :(

So no one solution suits everybody, and that includes their budgets :P

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Not saying one is better then the other. Im just posting up to highlight that the gap isnt as huge as ppl make out, and dont forget the TD06 is a bigger, plain bearing turbo and the RB25 above is running more compression with a smaller ball bearign turbo.

RB20s can give results that may satisfy what you want to do with your R32 without resorting to an engine conversion.

I had a R32 with a 25 Conversion about 5 years ago - while it was a great conversion , looking back on it I wudve rather worked a RB20!!!

I have owned my Cefiro now with the RB20DET in it for around 17 months and I cant stress how happy I am with this car. It is probably the least powerful import I have ever owned (despite making close to 200 rwkw) and it has given me trouble free motoring since I owned it - and those who know me know I dont drive my cars like a Pansy.

The RB20 is a very under rated engine. I will admit that in the past I have jumped on the bandwagon and said they have no low down torque and all the usual garbage you hear from people about these motors.

Its all a load of crap. My 20 has a small GT2510 turbo on it and its on full boost (1.1 bar) at around 3000 rpm with a stupidly urgent push all the way to 8400 rpm. It feels absolutely great and is thoroughly enjoyable to drive. My old JZX100 chaser with the torque monster VVTi 1JZ didnt feel as urgent down low!!!

Your best bet is to put a cheap RB20 replacement motor and enjoy the car without going thru all the headaches associated with engine conversions.

And why would you wanna make your Skyline sound like a Truck. Say NO to SR20 conversions :)

Edited by Starionturbo

wow i just realised a) this thread is hell old and b) i already posted a while back..

Dont get me wrong i love my 25, but i could have saved alot of money and just bolted a 2530 onto the 20 and ripped it up without a care in the world

i agree with alot of things said here, if ur on a budget stick with rb23 + hks 2530

but rb25s can handle 300 at the wheel and box safely from what every1 on here is saying.

how much can rb20s hold?

im thinking about getting some aggressive cams at the same time as the power fc (if i can friggen find one for under 13000 =)

i guess it all depends on ur driving style and needs, if u want ~200 at the wheel and use it alot of drift, just keep bouncing off that limiter and keep kicking the clutch and u will never need down low torque lol... plus rb20s go for like $700? while rb25s go for much much more.

like i said, i was looking to sell my car n get a 4door, but i changed my mind n sticking to the 25 =)

oh and btw roy which one is ur dyno sheet? both are very impressive i must say

The two sheets under yours are mine. Interloper and I put out cars on Dr Drifts dyno (the mainline chart) where mine is the blue line showing it to be a llittle more responsive and make more power then the GT-RS. Though i was running more boost so kind of expected. A few months after that dyno run i was chasing more power so tried some cams, then removed them and just spent a bit more time on the tuning and perhaps cam gear timing. The result is the Dyno Dynamics graoh showing 260rwkws. (The other line on that graph was with teh 260/8.8mm cams :nyaanyaa: )

Both have thier merits!

I think a light tune rb20 would have to be better than a stock rb25 (cause thats the decision that faces many)

Regarding response i have a mate who makes 270rwkw on his rb20 R32 using a Garret 3071R and i had a rb25 in mine making 270rwkw using a 3076R and at any rpm my car was able to pull away not by tonnes but it was noticeable! Oh pus i could turn the boost up later and make 300rwkw but he couldnt and would start crying about cheating! So despite the fact i had a bigger turbo my response was still better.

Emz uve never experienced RB20 powaah!! Ive never seen ur RB25 even turn the wheels in 2nd gear!!

Tim (silver R32 that drifts) has a TD06 L2 setup on his 32 with PowerFC - tuned by Racepace it pushes 270 rwkw!! Thats outta a stock RB20DET and he thrashes the ring outta it on limiter.

Power figures mean nothing - its about how the car is tuned and set up and how effectively it gets it power to the ground.

Another guy I know Imported a R32 GTS-T very recently that was built by STILLWAY in Japan.

All I can say is - what a freaking Monster!!!!

Stillway built RB20 stroker - 2.4 Liter, unknown cams (very very lumpy), stillway ECU and a Trust T78!!

Cross mission 25 box and Quad Plate clutch. Just listening to it, id be hard pressed to find another RB motor that sounded better.

Ceffy is due for some cams and Trust turbine love sometime this year!!

Edited by Starionturbo
Both have thier merits!

I think a light tune rb20 would have to be better than a stock rb25 (cause thats the decision that faces many)

Regarding response i have a mate who makes 270rwkw on his rb20 R32 using a Garret 3071R and i had a rb25 in mine making 270rwkw using a 3076R and at any rpm my car was able to pull away not by tonnes but it was noticeable! Oh pus i could turn the boost up later and make 300rwkw but he couldnt and would start crying about cheating! So despite the fact i had a bigger turbo my response was still better.

Interesting as there are a few RB25s at the track making between 280-320rwkws and coming onto the straights they sure as hell dont pull away from me. If anything i pull a bit on them. I think the only car i know of woudl by Adz who has a neat RB25 in his R32. Looking at vods of his car against mine he does seem to pull a car length or two on the long front straight at Sandown. I know the R33s and R34s i am referring to dont seem to pull any gap on me. Actually just remembered Lee Wilson oin the AVO R33 which runs a GT35 and about 310rwkws...he pulled about 2 car lengths on me down an entire straight at Sandown.

But i imagine on the street it would be far more pronounced as the rpm woudl often be less then 3,000rpm and you would die in an RB20. But at the track where you are always above 4,000rpm, if not 4,5000rpm there is more variation in the suspension cars are running then the power, torque the engien is making.

Still, the day will come where my RB20 will die...finances at the time will be the only thing to dictate me decision. $600 and another motor for a few more years of fun...or 330rwkws and 15k and try to chase down some of the quicker cars?!?!?!

2.5k and a mechanic and your problems will go away. Wrecker motor with 3 month warranty, new belts, pumps etc and all labour performed by someone else. I would expect that you wouldnt be up for much more then $2500, providing you can get a motor for less then $800

if you can do it with friends then even better, just be sure that its done properly

As said above IMO this is the best option.

Otherwise do a budget RB30 build for another 1k or so.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
    • Ohhh I see lol To be honest the main reason why I wanted to start modding is because of a business trip to Japan and Indonesia. I saw many cool and modded cars all throughout in these countries, especially Japan. I myself am of Chinese+Japanese nationality and when living in china (never lived in Japan js my dad side lol) I remember staring at these cars pass by with their loud tacky exhausts and insane wide body kits. And when I went back to Japan, I got even more invested even asking people about their cars and why they modded. Most gave similar answers to what you said but funny enough one guy just said that he saw the need for speed movie being filmed once in Tokyo I think near Shibuya Crossing and got inspired to tune and mod. After that I just started to fantasize on owning a car like that. Also tbh I prefer the R32 over the R34 it's just the R34 is more iconic lol (also apparently better aftermarket support than the R32) and my only goal really is just to make the car mine and make it fun to drive. As much as I love my Cayenne it's pretty bland to drive. Sure the interior is nice and pretty, gives you attention yada yada but I've wanted to experience what it is like to have a car that is truly yours. I suppose thats the goal so far. Haha if you find where I'm from, then sure. Ill help you out on your next "financial decision"
×
×
  • Create New...