Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok here is the sitcho..

CAR:R32 gtst

i recently had to get a 2 inch temporary cat back little system cauz nobody could help me with stock catback.. but anyways.. after getting the system made up the guy at the place started telling me that my 3" is too big and how every zorst system needs back pressure.. im currently runnin 3" all the way through 3" cat and a cannon on the back..

is he just talkin shit to sell me new exhaust or should i buy a muffler??

BTW: anyone needing to get a EPA done and has 3" cat and needs to borrow 2" catback for r32 gtst pm me..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184679-exhaust-questions/
Share on other sites

Back pressure helps for a smooth idle and response when driving around the street, but for gaining mid range and top end power the bigger (sensibly) the better and 3" is pretty much right on for the rb20. The muffler shop guy is probably just use to dealing with NA cars. The cat and mufflers will give you all the back pressure you need.

im just curious has anyone had their car dyno'd before and after getting a new exhaust system fitted? if so what increase in performance did you get? i would assume other work done to the car would affect this figure aswell so anyone with a near stock gtr done this?

It doesnt on a turbo car, even on a N/A car, its just that people with N/A cars feel the "loss" more because they put on the exhaust and dont get a tune to compensate for the cars altered behaviour :kiss:

Backpressure & turbos = bad.

i work for an exhaust company that designs exhausts for power stations and earth moving equipment boats and trucks.... and i'll tell you first hand the less backpressure u can get the better.... all engines have a maximum allowed backpressure per h2o pressure drop..... but yeah anyone thats says you need back pressure is miles off..... put it this way the less backpressure u have the easier it is for a turbo to spool.... the reason they say there is too big is because once you go beyond a certain point there is too much area and not enough flow to move that amount of air so in cause starts causing backpressure.... so yeah 3" would be ideal for an r32.... the most ideal is 2.75" or 70mm tube work.....

Edited by redevil

There is a real science to exhaust tuning and the whole thing is a bunch of compromises...

Here is a blurb from another forum that is interesting reading...

'Ok, this explanation may be MORE information than some want to consider but...

First of all, I MUST say that backpressure is NEVER a good thing in the exhaust. By backpressure I mean resistance to flow creating more pressure for the exhaust exiting the exhaust valves to work against. Ideally you would have a vacuum at the exhaust valve and in fact that can be created with a properly tuned exhaust system. Our exhaust manifolds are NEVER going to accomplish this so my statement is for illustration only. But, consider each phase of an exhaust. If the manifold pumps into a restrictive catalytic converter (backpressure) is it going to flow more or less? Easy, less. If the cat flows into a restrictive Y pipe, resonator, silencer(s) kinked pipes, chambered muffler, obstructions, air damns, etc... each part adds up and the engine cannot exhale efficiently.

Now, reducing backpressure is one component of a complex system and is in fact interdependent with the other variables. Velocity is very important. Heat, accoustics, aerodynamics, shape, volume and transitions are all important parts of the equation.

To "simplify"... let me attempt to illustrate what happens in a multi-cylinder exhaust system.

As an exhaust valve opens it "vents" the hot under pressure exhaust gases from the cylinder. These gases have mass and speed and therefore enertia. The speed is dependent upon many things not the least of which is heat energy. If you look at the outside bend of a header on an engine under load you will often see the "glow" of this energy being "lost" as it makes the transition.

The purpose for ANY performance exhaust is to reduce the pressure at the exhaust port especially during the end of the exhaust event for that port. A really GOOD system can actually create a vacuum. This is called scavenging and it improves removal of unburnable exhaust gas from the cylinder allowing more fresh air/fuel charge to enter during the intake event as well as reducing the pumping loss of a piston working against port pressure.

There are several ways to reduce this pressure including "tuned" length runners which "tune" the pressure waves to create the above effect... but only for a given RPM window.

One of the MOST confusing realities about modifying exhaust systems is the usual loss of low RPM power/torque. Looking at a stock exhaust manifold or system logic would state that increasing capacity "HAS TO" increase flow and continuing this concept... POWER. So WHY would a better LOOKING part hurt low RPM power/torque? The answer is that the stock stuff flows POORLY both WAYS!!! Better flowing pipes flow better BOTH WAYS!!!

When the exhaust event first starts (when the valve first opens) there is very high pressure in the chamber. This pressure flows out the POOR flowing manifolds just fine at low RPM. As the exhaust event is nearing its end the cylinder pressure is much lower and the poor flowing manifold acts to reduce reverse flow from other cylinders firing into the manifold. Installing a better flowing manifold CAN (not necessarily will) allow exhaust pressure from an adjacent port to flow back into a port at the end of its event and therefore charging that cylinder with additional exhaust pressure and reducing its potential to breath in a fresh charge.

Think of it this way. With 4 exhaust ports collected into one exhaust manifold, if one of those ports is at the end of its exhaust event and has relatively low pressure AND one of the other ports is just starting its exh event and has very high pressure, the high pressure will try to back flow into the first port.

This same idea applies to X and Y pipes. They act to create a high flow one way check valve that reduces reversion and therefore pressure before them. Properly designed they increase scavenging at low RPMs without restricting high RPM flow. This is why they help low RPM torque. This also applies to header merge collector theory/design

With a large volume collector the gasses slow dramatically, pressure spikes and YES it can and does definitely flow backwards from the high pressure collector to the low pressure (relatively speaking) ports at the end of their exhaust event or at overlap.

With a precision merge collector you can actually create a vacuum under the same conditions as the flow moves quickly through the small volume collector and "pulls" on the other primary. These conditions occur mostly at low to mid rpm and contribute to the old wives tale of an engine needing backpressure. Engines need vacuum in the exhaust!

People think they need huge pipes but in fact large pipe is the biggest mistake made by most. Consider that the GS400 is rated 300hp/310tq and has a single 2.35" center pipe... and that my LS400 is rated 290hp/300tq and has a single 1.95" center pipe... it stands to reason that a single 2.25" pipe can support 300hp. So, using dual 2.25"s mean that you could support 600hp, not optimally but it would do it.'

Ok, got all that?? I had to read it a couple of times too!! :unsure:

yes yes well and good, but does that relate to turbo charged cars?

i understand that, but dont turboed cars work slightly differently..

also i was thinking one dark and stormy night....what if you could create a vortex in your exhaust then that would create less turbulence and more vacumm.

but maybe thats been done already

The same principals still apply...

The optimum amount of back pressure is none.

Tube sizes are still a trade off between between maintaining gas velocity and restriction(back pressure).

Turbo engines only differ in that they have a restriction in the exhaust system called a turbo.

Creates significant back pressure in the exhaust manifold and chops the exhaust pulses up finely so you can't use the scavenging effect.

A 3" is tried and proven.

Redevil is on to it.

As the man said, "a 2.25" tube will support 300hp...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
    • So my car is finally back from paint! This took an absolutely insane amount of work and should get it's own build thread - but I didn't build it. It was completed by Troy @ https://scalekustoms.com.au/ I originally bought the AOSHIMA URAS Type R kit while I was in Japan, it's supposed to look like this when assembled: Now, I thought that was cool enough until I opened the box with Dismay, as there's no way I could possibly have completed it. The thing is 1/24 and has details down to the steering wheel horn button, which is a 2mm diameter sticker. I originally wondered if someone could make it at all, as is - But then things got a little carried away. It's worth noting that the model does not have an openable bonne, let alone engine bay, OR an openable boot. - Troy has worked wonders with 3D printer and presumably better eyes than I will ever have. My photos suck, so I will post up some of his in-progress ones he sent to me during the way. Unsuprisingly, he is very detailed. A lot of these are out of order. But he: 1) Made a LS engine and an engine bay appear out of thin air 2) Made the bonnet removable 3) Printed the rims I will buy in the future (or any rim you want) 4) Printed and added the wing that is going on 5) Tinted my back windows as this is what my car has IRL (privacy glass) 6) Added a licence plate. 7) Somehow did the interior 8) 3D Printed my actual seats 9) Made the exhaust under the car connect even though this is likely invisible. 10) Created a boot with my fking battery box, power steering reservoir, subwoofer and toolboxes back there. To say it's insane is an understatement. And I f**ked it all up because when I was re-mounting the wing (it broke in transit) I spilled glue everywhere and ripped paint up and Gregged the rear half of the car. Which about makes sense. Also, this arrived on the same day. Quite the change from: I spent 16 hours per day over the next 3 days pre-christmas putting the interior back together, mounting lip, fixing various bodykit problems with window mouldings, etc. and servicing, rebuilding my 370z brakes to go on the car 'soon', messing with heights to check clearances for new wheels, etc. I also had a foray into mounting wiper-mounted washer jets which was an absolute disaster. The bodyshop has welded (and painted) over the stock jet locations for reasons unknown to everybody (i.e they forgot) I also wanted to wire in the oil pressure sensor on Christmas Eve which was a BAD IDEA. You do not know terror like pulling your ECU apart, pinning in half-fitting pins that aren't the right ones, but trying anyway because it's Christmas eve, putting your ECU back together and having a no-start condition with a fuel pump not priming. Then you undo all your work and the fuel pump still doesn't prime. So after all that terror and horror and pain and tedious disassembly, the issue was the relay in the boot which seems to have died/stuck when I was turning the car off and on about 700 times testing shitty washer jets. I also re-wired the fuel pump power plug which fell apart in my hands. I am very happy I had 3 extra pre-made ones from a few posts/last Christmas's breakdown. https://bluewireautomotive.com/products/10-x-pcm-ecm-ecu-terminals I have put an order for these in, so I can actually add the pins to the ECU properly. The commodore ECU does not have the pins for Oil Pressure via ODB2. However the ECU can support it if you create the pins and wire them in. So for round two, and somehow attempting to route that into the engine bay through my impossible engine bay grommet is a fight for another day. It's 40C in Melbourne tomorrow, I am half tempted to drive the car with the aircon on to deliver presents to my partner's family and see if it helps with the overheating-on-40C-days-in-traffic-with-aircon-on-only issue that the vents were intended to solve. Do I feel lucky?
    • Yes, while being... strictly unnecessary. Tuning is a bit like quantum physics. You don't need to understand what Schroedinger's equation actually means. You just need to run the computation and accept the answers. With tuning, you just push page up/down until the exhaust tells you that you've got the fuel right. The VE can stay hidden behind the curtain like the Wizard of Oz and you'll never need to know what he looked like.
    • The second part yes, the first part about easy VE calculation is something I've seen a few people talk about online.
    • You 100% could do that, would save money on a gym membership lol. But yeah, getting a cordless orbital sander will feel priceless coming from doing it manually.  Good luck with it mate
×
×
  • Create New...