Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, heres a chance to let out some automotive frustration!

I am doing a bit of a project for uni and looking at some bad design in transport, particularily in cars.

Just wanted some feedback as to any bad design you guys have come accross within any type of car or its function. For example a switch functioning in a wiered way compared to what you percieve it should do when you first go to use it... basically something which doesnt work or do what it should do.

One instance I came accross is on some Eurpean cars, where reverse is on the top left, you have to firstly, push the stick forward (this, when you are trying to drive backwards in reverse) as well as lift up on the gear knob, otherwise it wont go into the reverse gear (without there being any visual indication to do so).

Any other examples or input would be grealty appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184824-bad-design-in-cars/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Auto gear boxes which, when used in manual mode have the upshift & downshift function upside down. Most boxes you have to press forward to change up & pull back to change down. This is backwards & counter intuitive. One fo the few companies to get it right is Ford.

Indicator stalk on the left hand side of the steering wheel in a right hand drive car is a long time bug bear.

Interlocks which make you put your foot on the brake to change between drive & reverse.

The r33 ariel going all the way up whenever the stereo is on...

the massive blind spot in mum's camry....

single point injection

the 3 speed auto in my old vk... I mean WTF!

idrive

gigantic bus like steering wheels in sports cars

standard auto boxes that change all over the place when you dont want or need it

power figures at the flywheel

paddle shift, and tiptronic. If i want manual, i want MAN-U-AL!

the auto clutch in some old vw beetles

90's american sports cars.

digital speedo's

that should get you started :closedeyes:

anything made by daewoo, ssang yong... etc lol

cars with wiper stalks and indicators swapped around...i know its european, but we are in oz ffs.

oil filters that are sometimes near impossible to get to

theres more, but i cant think of any atm

the newer cars are, the less thought has gone into the ease of replacing parts. even basic servicing is getting retarded..

oh and the drainage channel behind the front guards on most nissans.. just traps moisture and rusts.

+1 The r33 ariel going all the way up whenever the stereo is on...

I mean why put in a swtich for hte user to decide if it was to go up.. im usually playing a cd an that dont need no aerial... pet pieve

f**king paddle shifts, so damn retarded.....like it was mentioned above....If I want manual, I had better see the H pattern and a clutch

Another silly deisgn would be the 90s BMW which I drove once.....the handbrake was very very awkward

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
    • Got started on the modification to make these splash plates fit over the long weekend. First the surprisingly time consuming task of swapping all the cam cap bolts to Tomei cam cap studs. I did the method of removing one bolt at a time, applying loctite to the stud, double nutting to torque as the manual described. Then carefully unlocking the nuts without disrupting the torque of the stud (and going back to re-torque a few times when it slipped). Finally applying the nut and torquing to spec. Repeat x28 Next up I went about removing the stock cam cover baffle so I could ensure it was fully clean after drilling for stud clearance.  As the blind rivets holding the baffle on were domed I used a punch to mark the center then used 4mm drill bit to carefully drill out the rivet without going too far part the baffle. As seen in other thread here is what is inside the stock baffles I decided on M4x6mm bolts to bolt the baffle plate back on with. I used a 3.3mm drill bit with some tape to mark the depth at ~8mm. Next was to tap the threads using a cheap bunnings kit M4x0.7. With the baffle removed I also drilled out the spot welds holding in the baffle plate oil returns. Unsure whether this was the best option or if I should have cut holes in the Hypertune splash plates to allow the oil drains to still function... time will tell. I then removed the the Hypertune splash plates so I could rest the cam cover on top and use a dab of grease to mark where the studs impacted the oem cam cover baffle. The most obvious spot was on the hump from the stock mesh is held. Using this hole as an anchor I bolted the oem baffle plate back into the cam cover and lined up the Hypertune splash plate. Marked the rest of the holes for the studs and drill those out too. Total 32 holes drilled and 12 threads tapped on the passenger side cam cover alone for this bolt on part that totally clears all OEM cam covers.. Drivers side next as well as some E85 safe fuel foam to fill the space behind the behind cam cover baffle plates. oh and some lock nuts for the splash plates of course.
×
×
  • Create New...