Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

there has been a fair bit of interest from some of the members on here after a S2 Dayz front bar and Dayz rear skirt, so Andrew at Custom Carbon Components ( http://www.ccubed.com.au ) has said that he can make a top quality copy of a genuine Dayz front bar and rear skirt! Rough prices are as follows

$550 S2 Dayz Front Bar

$300 Dayz Rear Skirt

basically the prices are higher than your "average" because Custom Carbon Components only offer the best products, best fit, made form superior products and second to none craftsmanship. also because they won’t be charging for tooling as these moulds haven’t been made yet.

Yunis has offered up his Dayz bits for this job - legend

Andrew needs at least 5 people with 50% deposits down before work can begin

PM me for those who are interested!

:blink:

Edited by Brycey

I don't know much about bodywork, but does that include painting? Does it need to be painted on the car, or can it be matched close enough off the car? Thanks

that price dosnt include painting, and the bar/skirt is painted when its off the car.

if you live outside of sydney or need the bar/skirt posted to you and want CCubed to paint the gear then you would probably need to send somethign like your fuel cap cover for colour matching

currently getting prices on paint

just a thaught guys can they do a mould of the rear bar with the skirt attatched and then smooth it out to get rid of the seam where the skirt joins.and is it possible to remove the numberplate frame setup in the front bar it would look better more airflow etc .my 2 cents worth if we going to all the trouble lets get it rite

post-26949-1189843672_thumb.jpg

post-26949-1189843781_thumb.jpg

why are u guys goin to all this trouble to get the dayz ones made up from scratch when there is already places making other (better in my opinion) kits ready to go, front, side and rear.. just my thought neway..

why are u guys goin to all this trouble to get the dayz ones made up from scratch when there is already places making other (better in my opinion) kits ready to go, front, side and rear.. just my thought neway..

ok here is my 2 cents worth and i know a few more people with the same outlook i like the dayz bar because. 1 its not too low. 2 because it still retains a semi factory look and not the boy racer apearance. 3 still has plenty of airflow well it will when the jap numberplate bit is removed .personally i would rather keep my car looking like stock as it dosent atract any unwanted attention from the boys in blue and all the boy racers trying to prove something everytime they see a kitted out car

why are u guys goin to all this trouble to get the dayz ones made up from scratch when there is already places making other (better in my opinion) kits ready to go, front, side and rear.. just my thought neway..

I just like the Dayz kit... think it looks more "Stageaish". :)

im pretty positive Andrew can remove the number plate holder/make it alot smaller

not sure about the chrome strips, either adapt your old one or... umm... hey look over there! *runs* :yucky:

still need more people for this to go ahead!

im pretty positive Andrew can remove the number plate holder/make it alot smaller

not sure about the chrome strips, either adapt your old one or... umm... hey look over there! *runs* :mellow:

still need more people for this to go ahead!

Hi Brycey,

Any word yet about paint costs?

Thanks

yeah mate just got some info then, he can paint the front bar + rear skirt for $600 if requested but if you don’t live local to sydney then he recommends getting it done at your local paint shop as the packaging will more than likely damage a freshly painted item - no matter how well its packaged.. so he can do it but he highly recommends getting it locally done if you don’t live in or around Sydney

4 :D

good old joe has put his hand up to be number one, and mike has said he will put some money down for the moulding (to get things happening) but wont pay the total amount till a later date

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
are these the sort that crack on impact? or will they be flexible like the quality/stock items?

Oooh, if they were made from flexible composite like some of the drift kits.... like the ones supplied by Flex-Fiber Duraflex or M-FleX, that would be extremely nice... In this case however I don't think the kit parts will be flex composite... not sure the process you'd need for what I'm guessing is a urethane/fiberglass composite item, but I'm guessing for a small number run like this it'd be far too expensive. Although it'd be cheaper than pure urethane parts, and stronger too.

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have two German Shepherds that like to bite things that are in places they shouldn't be. Plus the cars/batteries on chargers are inside a locked garage, inside that fully fenced and locked yard. If you can get the car out, you can have it, as I'll be having one hell of a laugh at your expense.
    • Looks like they changed the wording in the manual for the new model. I have a different model. Mine is CC1206. Not CC1206-XLI. Mine doesn't support lithium at all. I can't find the manual for my model online and they don't list the model on the Century website anymore either. In my manual it says what I quoted and that they recommend to not leave it on 🤷‍♂️ Sounds like you'd be fine with this one now.
    • Thanks for actually answering every single point! I noticed the date only after posting. And yes, looks like things have changed a little bit since then. FWIW, looks like Government Gazette No 253 has the current emissions test procedure. Sounds pretty reasonable altogether. One thing I learned from this is that it's possible to check whether a catalyst does any work by measuring the temperature. Catalyst outlet temp is at least 40°C higher than inlet temps if there is a reaction happening. I'd be curious to check this on mine but don't have a thermometer. Because purely going by smell it can't be doing much. Personally I'd be okay to pay for the test as long as it's within reason. My main concern would be to lose my rego because it definitely wouldn't pass the test in its current state. I'll see if I can do a bit more digging and see what's involved in doing this nowadays.   To be fair I don't think it's stopping many people from doing the modifications anyway. It just puts a barrier up to doing things right  
    • Uhhh if anyone sees this - I bought a BRZ years ago, on my fulls soon so back on the market for the R34!
    • Research research research, and tackle the important things first, like the rust, because as a wise old hippie and some crazy horses once said "rust never sleeps" Nothing good comes easy and fast, and nothing that comes easy and fast is typically good
×
×
  • Create New...