Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Manual RB30ET

Hi guys, basically "thinking" about selling my vl but im keen to see what people think and what it would be worth...So here goes

Car is always garaged and covered

1986 Series 1 Calais

Was originally an N/A auto but has been converted.

Car has rego till march and is fully engineered (front to back)

Rx Engineering has done a compression test and was 5psi between all cylinders

Exterior:

- Just had a bare metal respray blue over silver (close to turismo)

- 18inch Stalker Rims with nexen tyres

- 3 inch exhaust from turbo back with high-flow cat and canon (dump heatwrapped)

Interior:

- Standard Series 1 Calais interior in blue

- Monsta tacho in console

- Boost and oil pressure in chrome cups on dash

- Turbo timer

- Stereo Pioneer head deck and 6x9's

Suspension and Brakes:

- Lowered but not sure how much (pedders)

- Brand new adjustable panhard rod (nolathane)

- VL Turbo brakes all-round with 1inch master

Fuel:

- Bosch 450hp external pump

- Rx7 550cc injectors with extra but not connected

- Adjustable fuel regulator in engine bay

- Custom Fuel Rail

Engine and Driveline etc:

- Rb30et from skyline rebuilt with forged arias pistons , standard rods etc fully balanced about 7000kms ago.

- Contolled by microtech ltx12 (handcontroller)

- New Individual coils (hec715)

- Head has been port and polished and stage 3 cam fitted

- T04 turbo (i brought off a mate so don't know specs, perfect and boosts about 2800rpm)

- 48mm wastegate with screamer (turbosmart)

- Megasonic blow off valve (turbosmart)

- Boost controller (turbosmart)

- Custom Plenum

- Intercooler (hidden behind bar)

- Catch can

- K&N pod

- Chromed

- Mx7 gearbox with short shifter

- Custom 500hp clutch by 'carters clutch'

- Brand new 2-piece tailshaft ($700 alone)

- Rebuilt vl turbo lsd (standard gears)

Made 380hp on 16psi at rx engineering

Assured easy 400+ on 16psi with 3inch which is now fitted

Car will be beter with 3.9 gears and elec boost controller

Thats all i can think at the moment... For more info pm me

Asking Price: EOI or Will swap for anything of intrest (standard or minimal mods)

http://img301.imageshack.us/my.php?image=backtw9.jpg

http://img201.imageshack.us/my.php?image=side2rc9.jpg

http://img201.imageshack.us/my.php?image=side1zl2.jpg

http://img201.imageshack.us/my.php?image=frontvg9.jpg

http://i16.tinypic.com/5xe1c3b.jpg

http://i13.tinypic.com/4xmo4qr.jpg

Edited by FAT_3L
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185074-vl-calais-turbo-sell-or-swap/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
    • I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.
    • Got started on the modification to make these splash plates fit over the long weekend. First the surprisingly time consuming task of swapping all the cam cap bolts to Tomei cam cap studs. I did the method of removing one bolt at a time, applying loctite to the stud, double nutting to torque as the manual described. Then carefully unlocking the nuts without disrupting the torque of the stud (and going back to re-torque a few times when it slipped). Finally applying the nut and torquing to spec. Repeat x28 Next up I went about removing the stock cam cover baffle so I could ensure it was fully clean after drilling for stud clearance.  As the blind rivets holding the baffle on were domed I used a punch to mark the center then used 4mm drill bit to carefully drill out the rivet without going too far part the baffle. As seen in other thread here is what is inside the stock baffles I decided on M4x6mm bolts to bolt the baffle plate back on with. I used a 3.3mm drill bit with some tape to mark the depth at ~8mm. Next was to tap the threads using a cheap bunnings kit M4x0.7. With the baffle removed I also drilled out the spot welds holding in the baffle plate oil returns. Unsure whether this was the best option or if I should have cut holes in the Hypertune splash plates to allow the oil drains to still function... time will tell. I then removed the the Hypertune splash plates so I could rest the cam cover on top and use a dab of grease to mark where the studs impacted the oem cam cover baffle. The most obvious spot was on the hump from the stock mesh is held. Using this hole as an anchor I bolted the oem baffle plate back into the cam cover and lined up the Hypertune splash plate. Marked the rest of the holes for the studs and drill those out too. Total 32 holes drilled and 12 threads tapped on the passenger side cam cover alone for this bolt on part that totally clears all OEM cam covers.. Drivers side next as well as some E85 safe fuel foam to fill the space behind the behind cam cover baffle plates. oh and some lock nuts for the splash plates of course.
×
×
  • Create New...