500hp Atw Rb26

[R31Nismoid]

There is a ton of info on GT-SS.

Search button is along the top right bar, have a crack, there are some VERY detailed threads

[discopotato03]

IMO a good factory RB25DET and bolt ons/plug ins . Up to 300 Kw which is still lots more than an R32 GTST can get to the ground . Or just hunt around for a reasonable R33 GTS 25T and bolt/plug . Still won't get traction .

Many find out over time that the car with most of what they need fitted std ends up being cheaper overall .

I think a GTR is different because they are expensive to buy and mega expensive to upgrade .

Your call .

[s13_Skyline_inside]

with that kinda power in a rwd you be able to get some kind of traction if you got decent width rims and ran semi slicks wouldnt you? - preparing to get flamed

[s13_Skyline_inside]

oh and was just curious what kind of cooler some of you guys use making that much power?

[Flash89]

hey guys what is the stock turbo on a 32 RB26?? are they garrets?

[NIZ-26T]

yep t28 garrets with t25 flange

500hp @ rear wheels prepare a stock pile of tyres youll need em

[Brockas]

Just going to use this thread, as it's not really a unique topic.

Will be going for 550-590awhp, maybe 600 but I think thats dreamland without starting to upgrade everything.

Need to know what I need in terms of a motor build. I know the basics, but I just want to run this list by people who have done it to double check I haven't missed anything:

What the car currently has:

R34 GTR N1 motor (including n1 oil pump/block etc etc)

HKS 2835's

Power FC + Z32 AFM's

OS Giken cross set + tripple plate clutch

660cc injectors and Nismo fuel pump

All the usual bolt ons

480rwhp @ 20psi

What I'm planning to put in it:

HKS Forged 87mm Pistons

Pauter Forged Conrods

HKS Gasket Kit 1.0mm 87.5mm bore (or stick with 1.2mm?)

Nismo Bearings

ARP rod bolts

Trust sump extension

Tomei Poncams (260 x 9.15mm) + cam gears

JUN Valve guides

Block machining + head service

What else do I need??

JUN Head bolts?

Valve Springs?

Tensioner?

Harmonic Balancer?

Once it's all back together I'm hoping to turn it up to 24-26psi and make 550+hp at all 4 (a lot of money for just 70hp more!).

Edited December 28, 2007 by Brockaz

[Brockas]

anybody?

[Piggaz]

Bigger injectors

Any reason why you are using such small cams with 2835's?

[jonn]

Nice list there Brockaz.

As you mentioned I would add in ARP head and mainstud kit and ATI balancer.

I see you are planning on replacing pistons and rods. Have you thought any about using a HKS 2.8L kit? I've just got my car back from XSpeed and running it in at the moment but think the extra capacity would help you achieve your goals. Mine is basically the same as Gav's but with smaller 2530's rather than the RS's.

If you do decide to use the JUN headbolts let me know as I have a set I left with Ant as well as some valve guides. They ended up using HKS gear throughout mine instead.

[NXTIME]

upgraded oil pump

head mods for oil return to the sump

I also think that you should get bigger cams with the 2835's

[Brockas]

Thanks for your replies fellas!

The injectors will apparently handle 600rwhp, but if they dont I'll replace them at a later date.

This is being done on a VERY tight budget, so the HKS kit is out of the question unfortunately

Cams are small because they are supposed to be a direct fit and wont require massive amounts of head machining, nor anything else except guides.

Cams + gears + guides = ~$1400.

What would a 272 degree 10+mm lift cam setup cost me? I'm not 100% on what I'll NEED. If it's only 1600-1800 it might be worth it...

ARP head and mainstud kit sounds like a good idea, however I really want to know what I NEED, instead of "just in case"??

Oil Pump will stay as is, as I don't plan on revving it over 8k. But will definitely be organising an oil return from the back of the head. Thats a great suggestion.

I should have really been more specific, what do I really NEED for such a power level?

[rev210]

As mentioned some lift larger cams are a good idea. The additional lift requires bugger all machining, certainly less fiddly than the other machining that will be done to the head when it's off.

If you can get some 260 deg with 10mm or so of lift that would be the go perhaps if keeping it under 8,000rpm is part of your idea. Bigger duration isn't really needed.

You ought to run the ARP's with that sort of power level. You want a good set of studs holding the head on and the mains will want walk as power gets higher, you can do without any stretching with the stress they will be under.

You could just bolt some bigger cams in (even the run of the mill 260/9.15mm jobs) and I am quite sure you will crack your desired power level, I would expect you should see 100rwhp-ish from that, just maybe not without you living in constant fear of something going on you.

[Brockas]

Thanks rev, if there wont be that much difference in machining/part costs I will go for the higher lift cams. Will use the HKS step 2 264/10mm lift in/ex cams.

And forgot to mention that these are the baby 2835's, low mounts. If it's still too laggy after everything is back together I will downgrade to 2530's instead of upping the rev limit.

[rev210]

Thanks rev, if there wont be that much difference in machining/part costs I will go for the higher lift cams. Will use the HKS step 2 264/10mm lift in/ex cams.

And forgot to mention that these are the baby 2835's, low mounts. If it's still too laggy after everything is back together I will downgrade to 2530's instead of upping the rev limit.

Without a doubt , the cams ought to get those turbo's on plenty earlier then they are at present (500-1000rpm) and also open the top end right up as I noticed it plateu's up top a fair bit.

It's possible to fit the cams and valve train with the motor in, Sydneykid has stuck some advice about how/where to machine using a die grinder to get the clearence for the bigger lift cams. So if you wanted to you could bung them in before the engine build goes forward.

[RB30 Ceffy]

500hp in rwd car is all good to me. You need to find out if thats what you want. Wheels spinning most the time sidways its all fun to me but if you dont like that kind of thing then get the GTR.

I built a 32 GTS-T with a 26 this year for drifting. Only I didnt have as much power as your wanting. I had approx 340WHP and I could have enjoyed the 500 mark much much more.

So if you dont like to drift all over keep the power a bit lower to save the bank or get the GTR and have fun

Mine was just a set of high flowed factory turbos with forged pistons, drive and N1 pump. Very reliable, good millage and is compeditave enough to take to the drift events and not too crazy for the streets at all. But the sound you get is amazing. For anyone who knows the 26 the sound is much different from the 25 or 20 built. Sooo sexy. This build is much cheaper and still make you happy. Then later on if you wanted more smoke off your tires you can just upgrade the turbos and cams to get to your goal.

[SimonR32]

What else do I need??

hopes and dreams... plus another 20k when u f**k your povo build motor.

standard nissan n1 > povo build

[SimonR32]

living in constant fear of something going on you.

so so true

[STATUS]

yeah mostly looks and also how many R32 GTS-ts with RB26s with twin high mounts. i find this my way to be different

JMS in SA have about the only streetable twin high mount for sale that i would probably consider using (for 370rwkw anyway)

it is a twin TD05 kit (similar to T517Z and GT-RS sizewize) twin gates etc...

[RRob]

370kw gts is not as slippery as people think. But i've got i bit less weight up front so maybe mine shift's weight to the rear better.