Turbo Setup For Track Car

[azzr32]

hey guys just after some help and opinions on turbo setup.

I've got r32 gtst with rb26/30 its going to be built strong to support 500+ hp,just dont want to go to big and have to much lag nor go to small and run out of puff! still on the fence with single or twin aswell all the help will be much appreciated

thanks

[fresh]

from my brief experience the amount of power is only as useful to how how much you can put to the ground.

ie. my car makes 220 rwkw and was sliding round corners and wheelspinning out of them, also braking, the shitter your tyres the longer the stopping distance.

don't forget suspension or tyres, otherwise 500hp and 250hp will be just as quick

[swanny180]

Yeah I think with a relatively lightweight 32 gtst (which obviously is RWD), its not going to be as important how much power you are making, more *how* you make the power.

If you are making 500hp with a lightswitch style power delivery, youll most likely find that youll be faster with 400hp that is made progressivly and smoothly.

Also you need to ask some other questions...

What wheels/tyres are you planning on running?

What is the planned use for the cars? General thrashing on track days, or is it being built to suit regulations to race in a particular series?

How important is reliability? How much can you spend if something goes wrong?

A single power figure really doesnt mean much.

With an idea of the cars use people here should be able to give you a far better idea of what will suit your needs

[azzr32]

no worries ill give some more specs

ebach springs with bilstein shocks at the moment

r32 gtr diff with 1.5 way lsd

strut brace front and rear

full cams approved cage getting made at this time

sway bars

camber kit front

adj castor rods

adj control arms

bridgestone RE55S/ dunlop second hand full slick

brembo f50 calipers/ DBA 343mm rotor

etc!

track only car, super sprints and track days club campionships just what ever im able to get to,

did have roughly 320hp before didnt have trouble with grip but obviously cant go jumping on the throttle half way through a corner with 500hp, although with full slicks it stuck to the ground very well with previous power.not saying im going to run that kind of power was just trying to say im not just getting the motor thrown together, its get built as strong as possible and as much as i can afford

just after what other people have used or tried or what to stay away from

thanks

Edited September 17, 2007 by azzr32

[azzr32]

i guess know one wants to give away there secrets, i guess its trial and error for me!

[Duncan]

26/30 and for circuit use? nice low mounts either 2530/GTRS or a T04Z (the little one). Assuming you aren't raising the rev limit you want early boost for flexibility. Will still make plenty of power for a rwd

[r33_racer]

500hp at the treads or engine hp?

[djr81]

500hp at the treads or engine hp?

Well it is a lot of trouble to go to if it is only at the engine. Even so it is alot of trouble to go to if it is at the treads.

An RB26 can spit out 500rwhp easilly.

[260DET]

One GT35R with the big turbine housing, 1.0 something.

Edited September 20, 2007 by 260DET

[Roy]

Is it going to be a track car or a road car that gets tracked?

[azzr32]

thanks for the comments, its track only car it will only see the circuit, i want as much power as i can make without going to big with turbo setup, the guy im getting to build the motor has only really done setups for drag cars so im just trying to get a idea of what other people are having sucsess with,

im not building it to get a power figure i just want it responsive as much as possible with good power range and hopefully get good times out of it.

thanks

[Roy]

Ok, so of its going to be a dedicated track car, i would assuem you are going to bin A/C, trim all the silly stuff that Nissan thinks we want to be comfortable?

If so, stick with building a 300rwkws car. With only 1130-1180kgs of weight to move around you will be better of limiting power to 300-320rwkws. That is a stupid power to weight ratio and it means you are not going to have to go silly with diffs and shocks trying to get the thing to hook up and stop.

I will also remind you its easier to drive a slow car fast then a fast car fast. So a 300rwks sub 1200kg car isnt going to be slow..but it wont be too hard to drive. If you go chasing more power you will need more cooling, more brakes, more tyres, most likley 18" wheels which are mroe expesnive themselves as well as the tyres costing an arm.

So, its your car, and feel free to build whatever car you lile. But a GT30R would be the way i go.

[51jay]

And dice the seccond hand R55s especially if they are more than a few months old

[TTOBES]

So... Tell me what makes 500rwhp so undrivable on the track...??

[Roy]

Who said it was indrivable?

[TTOBES]

Perhaps undrivable was a bit strong...

I see so many posts where someone has big plans with some fairly lofty horsepower goals and people advise them that they will never be able to put that power to the ground...

To my way of thinking, unless you can fry the tyres in 5th half way down the back straight, you do not have too much power. Part of the art of racing is learning the limits of traction available in each gear in a particular situation, putting your brain rather than your ego in control of your right foot, and utilising it to the max.

This is providing the motor is not a grenade and will be relaqtively reliable...

How often do ypu see posts where someone has built a motor and is now looking for more power, often needing to replace expensive parts they have already bought.

My advice is to set your horsepower goals where you want to end up, learn to drive the car to it's potential and develope your suspension/traction as you go...

[Roy]

Perhaps undrivable was a bit strong...

I see so many posts where someone has big plans with some fairly lofty horsepower goals and people advise them that they will never be able to put that power to the ground...

To my way of thinking, unless you can fry the tyres in 5th half way down the back straight, you do not have too much power. Part of the art of racing is learning the limits of traction available in each gear in a particular situation, putting your brain rather than your ego in control of your right foot, and utilising it to the max.

This is providing the motor is not a grenade and will be relaqtively reliable...

How often do ypu see posts where someone has built a motor and is now looking for more power, often needing to replace expensive parts they have already bought.

My advice is to set your horsepower goals where you want to end up, learn to drive the car to it's potential and develope your suspension/traction as you go...

Cant say i totally disagree...with the exception of the last line. 15k on power upgrades whilst you develop suspension etc will mean you end up with a slower car then you would if you had of pocketed your money, spent your money with a view to making your car quicker and more reliable...buys you a lot more of a chance to learn how to drive the thing. Not to mention that setting up a car like that will mean you will have to confront one of the more expensive upgrades earlier....brakes. Poor handling, slower corner speed, higher arrival speed, low grip means you wil need big brakes...which is another dead 5-8k

[R31Nismoid]

Perhaps undrivable was a bit strong...

I see so many posts where someone has big plans with some fairly lofty horsepower goals and people advise them that they will never be able to put that power to the ground...

To my way of thinking, unless you can fry the tyres in 5th half way down the back straight, you do not have too much power. Part of the art of racing is learning the limits of traction available in each gear in a particular situation, putting your brain rather than your ego in control of your right foot, and utilising it to the max.

This is providing the motor is not a grenade and will be relaqtively reliable...

How often do ypu see posts where someone has built a motor and is now looking for more power, often needing to replace expensive parts they have already bought.

My advice is to set your horsepower goals where you want to end up, learn to drive the car to it's potential and develope your suspension/traction as you go...

Mainly because good suspension/brakes/tyres and everything else comes first.

Is you strip all the crap out of the car you dont need power.

Its easier on brakes, suspension and tyres to boot, so its win-win

IMO your better off focusing on a nice responsive car (again, around the 300-330rwkw mark), and then focus on all the areas that come together to make the car fast. Power is but a small factor in the scale of it all.

Having to constantly battle a car thats going to shred tyres with the slightest miss use of throttle isnt for everyone, where a car with a good setup that have a board power range, is much better suited.

[TTOBES]

Totally agree...

I had assumed we were starting with a car that had a reasonable suspension/brake package as azzr32 had described earlier.

(ebach springs with bilstein shocks at the moment, r32 gtr diff with 1.5 way lsd, strut brace front and rear, full cams approved cage, sway bars, camber kit front, adj castor rods, adj control arms, bridgestone RE55S/ dunlop second hand full slick, brembo f50 calipers/ DBA 343mm rotor, etc)

Using this spec as a starting point it may well be easier to ' learn to drive the car to it's potential and develope your suspension/traction as you go...' with your target hp on board.

If nothing else it will show how far you need to go

With my own car I have spent just over $12k on a good adjustable suspension package, a 343mm/330mm brake setup, rebuilt LSD rear end and wheels and tyres. The basics...

And I'm still running around with the original 120kw...

I also agree with your comments regarding getting your priorities right with the engine build. For a track car the main focus should be on building a responsive usable package, although I still believe that can be achieved around the 500hp level.

Using my own plans as an example (as I think azzr32 and I are after a similar result) a forged bottom end, well preped head, the correct cams, decent manifolding and a pair of Garret HKS2530 equivalents should see the job done. I have mentioned 500rwhp only as an indication of the performance level I'm after. The priority is to build an engine with the widest, fattest torque curve possible and the best response I can achieve.

azzr32 is one step ahead of me as he has the RB26 ITBs...

Cheers

[Roy]

With my own car I have spent just over $12k on a good adjustable suspension package, a 343mm/330mm brake setup, rebuilt LSD rear end and wheels and tyres. The basics...

And I'm still running around with the original 120kw...

Can you let me know what suspension you have? Also more details about the brakes