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A while back I cut and direct earthed the wire from the solenoid to get about 8psi. All the time. While it is a buzz fuel consumption went up.

Today I finally fitted a DP/DT switch, so I can now run standard boost or higher at the flick of a switch.

The hard part is getting the wiring into the dash. Its all sitting there ATM.

Incidently, the switch I got fits the blanked off switch positions to the right of the steering column.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185195-boost-control/
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Nice, i did the same recently and thought about mounting a switch as well. Ended up getting the Turbotech MBC instead, now running 9/10psi. I tend to prefer using my foot to drive around off boost to save consumption. Launches a lot harder at 10psi!

Got pics of your setup?

A while back I cut and direct earthed the wire from the solenoid to get about 8psi. All the time. While it is a buzz fuel consumption went up.

Today I finally fitted a DP/DT switch, so I can now run standard boost or higher at the flick of a switch.

The hard part is getting the wiring into the dash. Its all sitting there ATM.

Incidently, the switch I got fits the blanked off switch positions to the right of the steering column.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185195-boost-control/#findComment-3351872
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my car is dead stock, i got 425km off my last 55litres... 200km of that was thrashing.

I average 400-460 per 55l, and i am normally in the hills for part of every tank. Don't know why everyone else is doing so badly.

-Ryan

Edited by Ryan1600
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more air goes into the engine will result into higher fuel usage. simple theory

Although, having not to rev it up to get 7psi also means a lot more throttle control at the lower revs. To tell you the truth, my fuel consumption is still pretty much the same running 4/7psi, 7psi and 9psi! Maybe i just don't trash the car enough. :)

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What i don't understand is why the fuel consumption varies so much with the stags. Sorry for the hijack.

Hugh, do you have an aftermarket exhaust?

Came with a big cannon. Its not noisy. It is something approved in Japan by their EPA, or similar. I think the rest is stock.

In my first drive yesterday tried switching while in motion and you can feel the difference.

The switch and boost gauge are a mess on the dash at present, the wires and line go out through the door to the engine compartment.

To make it tidy it would be great to find the pin in the ECU and do all the wiring inside. Does anyone know the pin No.?

The Narva switches fit nicely in the existing spare switch holes.

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Hugh, I've been told there's a grommet under the dash near the accelerator pedal, and if you take the front driver's side wheel off and pull off the splash guard, you should be able to feed your wiring through there. That's where I'll feed my cables through for my Defi's when I FINALLY wire them up.

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