Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's a picture of the coilovers i have in my R33. They came on it when it was imported so i'm lost as to how they work. The ride is very firm and i wanted to know how to soften it.

(FRONT)

gallery_41505_11_342465.jpg

I also found this little dail under the bonnet. It's numbered 1-4 and i can twist the dail around with a screwdriver. Enlarge the picture and you'll see the black+white dail, it's tiny.

gallery_41505_11_387535.jpg

So are these coilovers adjustable??? Is there a list of things i need to do to adjust them? (never had 'em before)

The rear suspension doesn't have the dails but little knobs that can be turned with a wrench, though it's a little tougher to twist them round.

Any help appreciated :laugh:

Edited by R338OY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185256-nismo-coilovers/
Share on other sites

They're definitely coilovers.

They are damper adjustable on the front for sure, the 1-4 dial indicates ride stiffness, and alters the valving inside the shock as to how firm or soft the suspension is. 1 will be softest, 4 will be hardest.

I'm unsure about the rears, as you may just be talking about the nut that keeps the coilover assembly together, which doesn't adjust damper or anything. Often the rear coilovers have a little dial in the same place as the front ones, or at the bottom of the shock near where it bolts on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185256-nismo-coilovers/#findComment-3352873
Share on other sites

They're definitely coilovers.

They are damper adjustable on the front for sure, the 1-4 dial indicates ride stiffness, and alters the valving inside the shock as to how firm or soft the suspension is. 1 will be softest, 4 will be hardest.

I'm unsure about the rears, as you may just be talking about the nut that keeps the coilover assembly together, which doesn't adjust damper or anything. Often the rear coilovers have a little dial in the same place as the front ones, or at the bottom of the shock near where it bolts on.

Those are definitely S-Tunes shocks. For the front you need to use a screwdriver then push them down to turn. Make sure they lock into the right number and release till it come up to the top. For the rear, just turn the knob. 1 softest 4 Hardest.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185256-nismo-coilovers/#findComment-3355140
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
    • Hello friends, i have a good friend in Canada that looking for a good condition 1993 GTR around him please if one or know someone around you that is willing to let it go please let me know so that i can inform him.....Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...