Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

And $15,000 my way lol.........my 33 owed me over $70,000, I feel your pain
you have pm pepe :thumbsup:
PM replied....and bump for an awesome car
thanks mate PM replied

Anthony, I want your car, you want mine, just give me the $15,000 and lets get it done. At least you'll know that your gem is going to someone who appreciates it. I've had quite a few GTR + cash offers, but I'm waiting for you lol

Hurry up.

Free bump.

  • Replies 200
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Anthony, I want your car, you want mine, just give me the $15,000 and lets get it done. At least you'll know that your gem is going to someone who appreciates it. I've had quite a few GTR + cash offers, but I'm waiting for you lol

Hurry up.

Free bump.

lol thanks pepe but all new projects are put on hold now have to fund the business atm so no r34 gtr for me :wave: will have to stick with a 700hp r32 gtr if i cant sell it :) hehehe

Need to end this topic to many dreamers on here no one will buy it Anthony most of the people on here dont even have a car they just want to talk crap and look at your pics post it on just cars you will have more luck then come and pick up my r34 its still waiting for you ,you know you want it

More the economic climate, the car is well worth the money, just not in todays terms.May not reach the good old days for quite a few years.

I have a gym and I have had 6 clients lose their job in 2 months.

Now is not the time for most to be splashing out on toys.

Unless of course you have a secure income and money, then now becomes the best time.

What I find odd is seeing R32's with blown gearboxes or smokey motors advertised for $18,000 - $20,000. A quick browse through here and you'll find R32's in EC for under $18,000.

I just got off car sales and found an RX7 series 8 2002 model RZ for $25,000 with under 40,000kms on the clock.Theres a 2001 model on here for $38,000.

Sellers need to at least be aware of what else is out there before they advertise.

Of course if your not in urgent need to sell, you can simply bump the price up and wait. Might be a long one though.

One point though, mods are worth very little today, very little.

Edited by pepe lopez

you right on the money there pepe if things keep going the way they are ill just keep it really, but would be good to put the money towards my business .. things are getting really cheap at the moment and for people with cash now is the time to lash out and get a bargain .

  • 1 month later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nissan/Pitwork is fine stuff. HKS is just marketing wank. I personally wouldn't do the idler if it is already new. If it looks and feels fine, it is fine. But as D says - it's cheap to add it to the job. The water pump ditto. Even more so. If it show no signs of problems, then it is nearly new - leave it.
    • 1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway.  3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.
    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...