Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just after some help on engine/gearbox mounts in my R32 GTS4, I find when under power the engine/ gearbox moves alot, which makes it hard to select gears when you change.

Are any other people having or had trouble like this?

What engine/gearbox mounts are other people using in their high powered cars, and does it fix the problem?

Edited by sky30

Just after some help on engine/gearbox mounts In my R32 GTS4, I find when under power the engine/ gearbox moves alot, which makes it hard to select gears when you change.

Are any other people having or had trouble like this?

What engine/gearbox mounts are other people using in their high powered cars, and does it fix the problem?

Just after some help on engine/gearbox mounts in my R32 GTS4, I find when under power the engine/ gearbox moves alot, which makes it hard to select gears when you change.

Are any other people having or had trouble like this?

What engine/gearbox mounts are other people using in their high powered cars, and does it fix the problem?

I changed to NISMO mounts all around.

What you have to remember is the stock ones in there (assuming they haven't been changed before) are now 15+ years old and have seen a fair bit of action in that time.

Buy new ones, put them in and notice the difference, you wont be disappointed :P

I guess a lot of people would be using Nismo.

Maybe you could get an engine damper. Even if it doesnt work well, its bling for the bay :ninja:

Damper's dont do dick other than take up space under the bonnet.

Get the new mounts and your problem will be solved :P

I went stock everyhing with my 370rwkw. Seemed ok to me even under full song @ the drags when i was full power.

Pulled it all out as part of the 26 conversion and all was well. No wear at all after some harsh km's.

Given though i had a stock crossmember that was modified to accomodate the RB25 box (as opposed to RB20 box which mounts differently).

So possibly the change that incorporated a better fit possibly?

I also had brand new diff mounts/cradle bushes aswell as i did have issues previously with things moving around a little.

Andrew,

Are you sure you haven't busted an engine mount?

When I dropped the RB30DET in I replaced mine with new ones from Nissan. 50,000km's later I busted the passenger side engine mount. :P

I believe it was most likely related to axle tramp. Subframe bushes sorted that.

No doubt with the GTS4 + Rb30 and near 400rwkw you will need something better. I guess you could try nismo failing that I don't know.

See if its possible to have some urethane's made up if not umm solids :S

had a poly g'box mount noticeably louder and more vibration in cabin compared to the nismo engine and box mounts I later changed to

g'box mount is easy to change with jack and stands, the engine mounts were a pain and that was with a hoist

we made up some solid ally engine mounts and we welded up the std gearbox mount. At 370rwkws the std engine mounts seemed fine, one race meeting at 400rwkws and we broke the p.s mount. So i figured we would need something remarkably stronger for over 450rwkws.

Best thing i noticed about the gearbox mount being solid was how easy it was to change gears. With the dog box, i found during one race i would crunch atleast 1 gearchange, after the mount change i didnt crunch any.

haha solid mounts in a race car you cant even hear the extra noise from vibrations lol.

Edited by r33_racer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • More photos are up, and the price has been dropped to $16,000. It's just had a service and a new 12V battery, too.
    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
×
×
  • Create New...