Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the lead I sell gives RCA input to the stock system. you still need to feed it a NTSC signal but thats it. if you do the camera I need the OEM tv tuner as I need to modify it.

Thanks again Chris. Does this lead fit into the tuner at the rear or piggyback at the main unit in the dash? I would like to purchase one from you anyway. Could you PM me details with p&p to Auckland NZ or would you prefer I contact you at work. What is protocol here? And if possible could you please indicate cost to modify the tuner for a camera, I will look to remove this as soon as time permits.

This all sounds great.....my new happy place :)

I could be wrong but i think what you are referring to is the Attessa reservoir for the AWD system. In my car it is located behind the right-hand side storage compartment. I don't know but is your vehicle rear wheel drive only?

Hopefully that helps.

Cheers

I thought that was what that reservoir was for, and knew where to find it behind the right storage compartment. The strange thing is that my car is 4WD, but doesn't have a reservoir there at all. Could my 4WD system be different? The only thing I can think is that being a later 2006 model, maybe it's shifted to somewhere else? The left side compartment has the TV tuner behind it.

Hi Spong, nice to hear from you, fellow Kiwi and thanks for your response. I had suspected that the ausy system wouldn't work yet but thought it might in the future, I did not know that it is completely different. Typical that we would choose to go down a completely different route. I had thought that a Pal to NTSC converter might be required or that I would just use the tuner as a pass thru to connect other devices. Oh well, I have limited knowledge at this point but time spent here should provide some options. I had also assumed that i could use a modded original xbox outputting NTSC for DVD & games and that this would connect to a tuner as an input.

Anyway, loving the car it is indeed awesome. Were are you at, I'm on the north shore.

Hey neighbour, I'm in Mairangi Bay on the North Shore also. I've been in the electronics and IT business for many years so have an interest in doing something more useful with my screen also. NZ did pick a different digital TV system to most countries, but technically it's better and a few other countries are heading down that path. I think a suitable car option will be here eventually, but it could be a while.

Hey neighbour, I'm in Mairangi Bay on the North Shore also. I've been in the electronics and IT business for many years so have an interest in doing something more useful with my screen also. NZ did pick a different digital TV system to most countries, but technically it's better and a few other countries are heading down that path. I think a suitable car option will be here eventually, but it could be a while.

Nice! Yes neighbour indeed, I'm in coastal Beach haven up by Birkenhead. Not far away at all. Good to know that we both intend to go down the same path and will be able to throw ideas around with each other. Although with your background you might have a few more ideas than me :) . I'll keep an eye out on the road, can't be to many blue M35's on the shore, I'm sure we'll meet up one day. Good to hear that there might be a distant solution for incar Tv and I guess we deceided to do it once and do it right, albeit differently. I best add you to my friends list. Catch ya later.

I'm just gonna rip all that shit ourt and also those useless gaugesl and replace nav unit and screen with a decent cuddy and the gauges with a sony 7 inch touch screen (with nav system option maybe). $1500 and the latest and greatest, sorted. Win win.

I've thought about that too and if this all becomes to hard that still maybe the best solution. The only thing is I've got the 6-disc in dash Bose system that does sound good and I'd like to keep that for now...oh well early days yet!

I've got to do a few other things to it first as it's fresh of the boat, transmission service, brake pads & rotor skim & an upper cylinder cleanout with a service.

Thanks again Chris. Does this lead fit into the tuner at the rear or piggyback at the main unit in the dash? I would like to purchase one from you anyway. Could you PM me details with p&p to Auckland NZ or would you prefer I contact you at work. What is protocol here? And if possible could you please indicate cost to modify the tuner for a camera, I will look to remove this as soon as time permits.

This all sounds great.....my new happy place :)

it plugs into the stock tuner. give me a call at the shop . easier.

I've thought about that too and if this all becomes to hard that still maybe the best solution. The only thing is I've got the 6-disc in dash Bose system that does sound good and I'd like to keep that for now...oh well early days yet!

I've got to do a few other things to it first as it's fresh of the boat, transmission service, brake pads & rotor skim & an upper cylinder cleanout with a service.

that tune will change when the thing breaks.

I've thought about that too and if this all becomes to hard that still maybe the best solution. The only thing is I've got the 6-disc in dash Bose system that does sound good and I'd like to keep that for now...oh well early days yet!

I've got to do a few other things to it first as it's fresh of the boat, transmission service, brake pads & rotor skim & an upper cylinder cleanout with a service.

Yeah, mines fresh off the ship also. I had to get new rotors and pads to pass compliance. They're getting really tough out there now. I'll look at transmission service soon.

One thing our Aussie mates haven't had to deal with their VQ25DET motors but we will with our VQ25DD and VQ30DD direct injection motors, is the build up of carbon in the intake manifolds and possibly combustion chambers. A couple of mechanics have warned me of this, and another Kiwi, "chad bob" has written about this at length here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...29#entry5263429

Looks like I'll get some Subaru upper cylinder cleaner before this becomes a problem.

that tune will change when the thing breaks.

:) ha ha Yeah, so I've been reading....and maybe experiencing as it has already skipped a couple of times for no apparent reason. As I have just got the car the Dealer has said they will clean the deck. It goes in next week and because it's such a mission they'll have it for a couple of days. At least i get a courtesy car!

Yeah, mines fresh off the ship also. I had to get new rotors and pads to pass compliance. They're getting really tough out there now. I'll look at transmission service soon.

One thing our Aussie mates haven't had to deal with their VQ25DET motors but we will with our VQ25DD and VQ30DD direct injection motors, is the build up of carbon in the intake manifolds and possibly combustion chambers. A couple of mechanics have warned me of this, and another Kiwi, "chad bob" has written about this at length here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...29#entry5263429

Looks like I'll get some Subaru upper cylinder cleaner before this becomes a problem.

Thanks that's interesting. I think I'll grab a can from Subaru in Wairau Rd. Mine has just rolled over 100k and although it feels smooth it could probably benefit from this. Mine was the smoothest of the few I drove, but they probably all could do with it.

I've got to do a few other things to it first as it's fresh of the boat, transmission service, brake pads & rotor skim & an upper cylinder cleanout with a service.

I just did a trans service at 168,000 kms. Not sure if it had been done before and car is now 8 years young but old fluid wasn't too discoloured. Mechanic thought things were looking good and only a few metallic bits in the filter. I had been experiencing intermittent steptronic issues that might have a faulty temp sensor as a cause. This is expensive as whole unit has to be replaced. We'll wait and see.

When you do the rotors only do them on the car and clean out all the crud around them. If upgrading brakes you'll only need to do the fronts but you probably will need new rims all round. You can get good ones from wreckers. I got mine from All Nissan in Lwr Hutt and the brakes too, which came off a GT-T skyline.

I just did a trans service at 168,000 kms. Not sure if it had been done before and car is now 8 years young but old fluid wasn't too discoloured. Mechanic thought things were looking good and only a few metallic bits in the filter. I had been experiencing intermittent steptronic issues that might have a faulty temp sensor as a cause. This is expensive as whole unit has to be replaced. We'll wait and see.

When you do the rotors only do them on the car and clean out all the crud around them. If upgrading brakes you'll only need to do the fronts but you probably will need new rims all round. You can get good ones from wreckers. I got mine from All Nissan in Lwr Hutt and the brakes too, which came off a GT-T skyline.

Hey STAG250 thanks for the heads up. My trans fluid looks good and is the correct level but I bet it hasn't been done in Japan recently so I'll be doing it shortly and good luck with your temp sensor. At this stage I'll skim the rotors and change the pads and see how that is, at the moment it has a shudder. I have a need to tow a bike trailer so we'll see if an upgrade is required later. Mine has factory 17" alloys so I'll be mindful of that if upgrading. I might get this first local service done at Nissan Takapuna

so it can all be checked out but I'm aware of the premium they might charge. I'd normally do standard services myself but might let them give me a good starting point. I'll keep you all informed of costs and parts used as I progress.

I had that shudder bad too and took three goes to get it right. Mostly it comes from the rear I think. The mechanic who sorted it out for me finally, removed rotors and cleaned things up before re-assembling them and skimming in situ. This was after I'd had fronts replaced and rear rotorss skimmed off the car in Welly.

I had that shudder bad too and took three goes to get it right. Mostly it comes from the rear I think. The mechanic who sorted it out for me finally, removed rotors and cleaned things up before re-assembling them and skimming in situ. This was after I'd had fronts replaced and rear rotorss skimmed off the car in Welly.

Thanks, I'll get them to follow that for both ends. Would prefer if this was cured in one go!

Hey STAG250 thanks for the heads up. My trans fluid looks good and is the correct level but I bet it hasn't been done in Japan recently so I'll be doing it shortly and good luck with your temp sensor. At this stage I'll skim the rotors and change the pads and see how that is, at the moment it has a shudder. I have a need to tow a bike trailer so we'll see if an upgrade is required later. Mine has factory 17" alloys so I'll be mindful of that if upgrading. I might get this first local service done at Nissan Takapuna

so it can all be checked out but I'm aware of the premium they might charge. I'd normally do standard services myself but might let them give me a good starting point. I'll keep you all informed of costs and parts used as I progress.

Hey Blade NZ, Look forward to hearing how you get on at Nissan Takapuna. I've generally used them for anything I won't tackle myself, and find them competent and fair. It's worth signing up at their website www.citynissan.co.nz in the service area, and they'll send you a 10% discount card for service and parts. The service manager there, Warwick Jarvis admitted they hadn't seen many M35 Stageas, and wasn't aware of carbon buildup in Di engines, and that surprised me. I remember when I took my '97 Stagea there back in 2000. They all crowded around it like a new toy.

Hey Blade NZ, Look forward to hearing how you get on at Nissan Takapuna. I've generally used them for anything I won't tackle myself, and find them competent and fair. It's worth signing up at their website www.citynissan.co.nz in the service area, and they'll send you a 10% discount card for service and parts. The service manager there, Warwick Jarvis admitted they hadn't seen many M35 Stageas, and wasn't aware of carbon buildup in Di engines, and that surprised me. I remember when I took my '97 Stagea there back in 2000. They all crowded around it like a new toy.

Spong, how are ya! That's good to hear about takapuna i.e. City Nissan. I was going to ask you whom you recommended locally. I will sign up tonight. I was in there the day after I picked the car up for new wiper blades, first big rain and the wipers were past it. The girl in parts was excellent. She came out to confirm variant, all in stock as a blade only or complete head. I got the complete unit at $23 ea. Part # NB8890U52XB. She then proceeded to fit them....Nice! Had a quick chat to the service guy, all seemed good, workshop looked good and if the price is reasonable they've got my business. Thanks for the assist!

Oh and I picked up a can of that Upper engine cleaner from Winger Subaru today @ $22.50. The guy in parts there was less than helpful and a bit of a dick...must of seen what I drove up in. :happy:

Might have a go at it tomorrow if time & weather permits (and there are no neighbours about) hope it doesn't smoke to much!!

Oh and I picked up a can of that Upper engine cleaner from Winger Subaru today @ $22.50. The guy in parts there was less than helpful and a bit of a dick...must of seen what I drove up in. :happy:

Might have a go at it tomorrow if time & weather permits (and there are no neighbours about) hope it doesn't smoke to much!!

Yeah, please let me know how you get on. Is one can enough for a V6? Where do you insert it - a breather, or just before the throttle butterfly or somewhere else? I wonder if some of that dislodged carbon finds it's way into the oil? Some say you put 1/3 in the crankcase, 1/3 in the gas tank, and 1/3 into the manifold. So many questions. I'm glad you're doing it first :thumbsup:

Yeah, please let me know how you get on. Is one can enough for a V6? Where do you insert it - a breather, or just before the throttle butterfly or somewhere else? I wonder if some of that dislodged carbon finds it's way into the oil? Some say you put 1/3 in the crankcase, 1/3 in the gas tank, and 1/3 into the manifold. So many questions. I'm glad you're doing it first :D

Ha ha, I was looking for that very info. But alas it looks as if I'll be the first. Only had a quick look under the cover today and the only obvious (easiest to get to) vacuum line was at the very front of the manifold. The can is small, only 150g net, and instructions are warm up engine, turn off, remove convenient vacuum hose, spray in half of can, wait 5 min. run engine at rpm to prevent stalling, spray remainder of can in, stop engine as can empties, wait 5 to 10 min. restart engine and rev to purge. Road test.

I think I'll follow this for now using the front vacuum entry and see how it goes. I do wonder about the throttle body though as it's at the other end of the manifold. If there is another vacuum line accessible there I add some as well. As for the petrol tank I think I'll add a bottle of Chevron Techron and the engine will get a quality oil change (Dealer did change oil but I'll bet it was cheap). I'll keep you posted although the weather isn't looking to hot tomorrow :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did a bit of googling, the color MCM used was Galaxy Grey from House of Kolor. This is actually a colour I picked out about ~10+ years ago (or more). This one is a stock BMW colour, I guess over the years I figured it was smart to get an OEM colour that was pretty common for all of those sensible reasons one can think of..
    • I absolutely love having clean wheels and also totally love cleaning them. Its not as important to me to have a clean car exterior as it is to have clean wheels. So I bought a kit. I generally use different products for my wheels than anything else, so I thought I'd buy a proper kit and bucket to keep it all in. I got this one from Waxit. I also got the CQuartz wheel and plastic ceramic along with a bunch more application micro fibre pads as CQuartz never provide enough.  The kit was good, but as usual the big, long spongey thing didn't fit between my spokes, so I needed to use a detailing brush and a larger brush that I already owned (been doing this forever, the spokes on these wheels are frustrating.) I did a full clean with the wheel cleaner, it has an iron killing product in it, so I found that I could just use the cleaner and nothing else on the wheels. The tyre cleaner and handled brush were awesome. Made cleaning the tyres so easy. Once everything was clean, I decontaminated with isopropyl and applied the ceramic. Two coats. I bought 2 bottles as I have a lot of wheels to do, half of one bottle did two coats on these. The X5 has 20's so I reckon probably 3/4 on that. Then, for possibly the best part, the wheel cleaning kit comes with a tyre black applicator. But, this is possibly the greatest sponge of all time - its a great size, quite stiff and HAS A COVER! When you finish applying the black, you just put the cover back on! This is revolutionary, I normally have to try and find safe places to put my tyre black applicators as they are covered in silicone and tyre crap. Or, you use something which just falls apart. This applicator is the bee's knee's. Get one. It's worth it. The tyre black is also like a cream, its very thick but goes on really thin, its very easy to use with the applicator. Ayway, after a big clean, decontam, ceramic coat and tyre black the wheels went back on and they look awesome.   Thought I'd share. 
    • Haha. Good work. I feel some of your pain because I spent a bunch of time under my car over the period too. Probably nowhere near as much as you did. My happiness is similarly improved by obtaining a desired result though. Those side skirts are.....hecking. Very unfriendly for street and hoist. Sounds to me like you've made a cart that needs to be driven up only planks/blocks at a 2 post hoist, rather than trying to get it up onto a 4 poster. It's very pretty, by the way. Somewhat reminiscent of Marty's squid ink on SuperGramps - at least in the photos.
    • Absolute Legend 🍻 After fighting with the scanned ones for the last 10 years this is a God send 
    • ATTAKD 356mm Brake Kit for R34 GTT or R33 GTST. Same brake kit as per here from JJ: https://justjap.com/products/attkd-brake-kit-nissan-skyline-r34-99-02?currency=AUD Can confirm these will bolt directly to a R33 GTST with 12mm bolts OR to a R34 GTT (which is what I had) with the supplied bolts and the collets for the 14mm bolt holes in the R34, which are included. Also included is a set of rotors and hats, as well as 2x brake pad sets. 1) DBA XP (street, hills) 2) Forza FR6 (track) These are radial mounted and bolt directly to R33/R34. You will need extended brake lines to avoid them being full stretch on lock - this is common for all BBK's with the bolt point being in the center. In my case I welded another stud about 25mm lower than the OEM one and retained stock lines and fittings. You'll want a BM57 BMC to get the most out of these. I speak from experience. $1800 (neg for SAU people), located SE Suburbs Melbourne.
×
×
  • Create New...