Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sweet. Hoping to pick up the car tomorrow after work :ninja:

Thanks Iain. Looking forward to owning and driving the M35.

I can't believe their a 2002 model. They look so modern.

What's the go with the flutter on this video? Is this just because that part of the intake pipe was removed?

Fair enough.

One thing that impressed me about the M35 was the factory sound system. The bass is so rich and clear and mine doesn't even have the optional sub.

Even on one of the loudest settings, there was no distortion.

Are all M35's fitted with Bose systems? Or only the ones with the optional subs?

Edited by dimi108
Fair enough.

One thing that impressed me about the M35 was the factory sound system. The bass is so rich and clear and mine doesn't even have the optional sub.

Even on one of the loudest settings, there was no distortion.

Are all M35's fitted with Bose systems? Or only the ones with the optional subs?

Bose system was an option on RX, ARX and Axis models.

RS models have a Clarion unit (I agree its sound is quite impressive for a base unit), but I am unsure what the standard integrated unit was for the RX, ARX and Axis.

Bose system was an option on RX, ARX and Axis models.

RS models have a Clarion unit (I agree its sound is quite impressive for a base unit), but I am unsure what the standard integrated unit was for the RX, ARX and Axis.

It looks like the Bose but I think it is also a Clarion unit packaged in the same way.

It looks like the Bose but I think it is also a Clarion unit packaged in the same way.

The Series 2 M35 RX models like mine, have a single DIN Panasonic (CD/Mini Disc) head unit as the standard option, with an integrated double DIN sized unit (possibly Clarion or Bose) as the alternative option.

Picked up the M35 yesterday. Superb car. Very comfortable, has good power and very modern.

Just curious on why the air filter intake features a window that can be removed to expose the filter like a pod filter?

Any reason behind this? Or is it purposely like this so you can have the option of exposing the filter?

one.jpg

two.jpg

It is the same air box as used on the V35 that has a "power duct" fitted in this spot for the NA motor.

Many M35 owners have opened this spot up. Some have been to Nissan for the "power duct" ($180) and other have made their own way of sealing the box from hot air from the motor.

Nice. Thanks for the info, Andy.

I've removed mine and left the filter exposed now. The intake sounds nice. A lot "deeper" when accelerating (especially up a hill) and the car has more response in 2nd (no placebo effect). Pretty good aye.

Just got new front shocks put in the M35 and they feel great.

Shocks are KYB 350z premiums and at NZ$225 ea. they are a bargain.

Definitely feel better than stock and way cheaper than OEM replacements from Nissan.

My steptronic's playing up. Intermiitemtly will stay in 4 with no change possible. In D will not engage o/d I think but appears to be attempting to as it surges a bit. I have had pressure switch fault code when I had it checked. Anyone else had this issue?

still doing it: can't get any code out of it this year but last year was showing the pressure switch thing

always seems to fail coming up to the big climbs - just when you meed it most

as my extended warranty expires in January I need to get onto this and can't just keep throwing dollars at inconclusive diagnostics

can anyone suggest a cause? your help is appreciated

If youre looking to get a new key cut, the genuine nissan part for a key without the remote central locking component has the part number H0564-AU000; I bought them off an ebay seller for $33 plus shipping. Unsure if it was a good deal, but it was convenient. According to a quick google search, Sterling Nissan in the Adelaide Hills may have some blanks - unsure what price theyre asking. A 10 point 'Nismo' key should also work, if you can find one.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any number of different ways. Have the coils draw sufficient current to provide contact wetting. Use different contacts in the switch, either by material or design, better suited to the low current drawn by a relay coil. Etc.
    • Hmm, how does the R34 manage to have headlight relays then without getting excessive carbon buildup on the headlight switch contacts?
    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
×
×
  • Create New...