Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm thinking maybe a problem with a hydraulic accumulator?

There's bound to be one in the system.

If it has lost its charge, the pump will cycle repeatedly to charge the system with pressure.

If it keeps leaking down, the pump cycling on all the time may fault the system.

Just a thought.

youre right, the transfer case is only clutches and a chain drive.

the pump is where we have already mentioned. if the pump is gone, its not a cheap exercise. however it might be something easy like the attesa ECU or a relay etc.

you can hear the pump start when you start the engine. if you dont, then its something related to that.

have you checked the fluid level in the boot??

Well ill put it this way - if i jam my foot on the gas it hooks up and goes but then it feels like it slips back to RWD but i could be wrong as i have never driven another.

I was thinking the Altessa computer or one of the relays near by but i would need to borrow someones working one to do that... any takers?

The electric motors next to the pump would be my next bet but again it would be a matter of borrowing someones to try or borrowing a spare.

Fluid levels are all good.

if youre prepared to give me a refundable deposit.

we can take this to PM.

also, dale is this the part youre talking about?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R32-GTR-Rear-Attesa-Valve-49836-01U00-/360299226352?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e381e4f0

if youre prepared to give me a refundable deposit.

we can take this to PM.

also, dale is this the part youre talking about?

http://www.ebay.com....=item53e381e4f0

This may sound like a silly question but would the car still engage the front wheels if the pump was the problem?

not properly. it wouldnt be able to engage the clutches to tranfer the torque forward as there would be no fluid pressure.

maybe there isnt enough pressure in yours or maybe too much

as mentioned, might be air in the system

not properly. it wouldnt be able to engage the clutches to tranfer the torque forward as there would be no fluid pressure.

maybe there isnt enough pressure in yours or maybe too much

as mentioned, might be air in the system

While being complied they bled the system multiple times, if i were to give it a crack in the drive way how would i go about it?

Also this would not explain why the gauge is non operational.

Mike.

apparently there is a plug next to the consult plug that runs the attesa pump so you can bleed it from all the points.

youll need a hoist and someone in the car to connect it up

as for the gauge, maybe it just doesnt work?

apparently there is a plug next to the consult plug that runs the attesa pump so you can bleed it from all the points.

youll need a hoist and someone in the car to connect it up

as for the gauge, maybe it just doesnt work?

If anyone has any pointers on how to bleed the altessa on an M35 please feel free to post it up here, that way I can have a crack on the weekend.

I'm hoping the gauge problem is the same as the 4WD light but you are right, it may just not work.

I'm thinking maybe a problem with a hydraulic accumulator?

There's bound to be one in the system.

If it has lost its charge, the pump will cycle repeatedly to charge the system with pressure.

If it keeps leaking down, the pump cycling on all the time may fault the system.

Just a thought.

Just to touch on the pump, can anyone tell me if the pump cycles upon start up the same as a GTR? my car has been at Morpowa this morning and as the car is a bit obscure he was unsure if the pump cycles or not as this one did not.

Cheers.

Just to touch on the pump, can anyone tell me if the pump cycles upon start up the same as a GTR? my car has been at Morpowa this morning and as the car is a bit obscure he was unsure if the pump cycles or not as this one did not.

Cheers.

Yep, cycles to build pressure, then stops. That's why I was on about an accumulator; it has all the hallmarks of that kind of issue.

I don't know where it would be; I've never even pulled the cover off mine. But if there is one, it will be a steel canister after the pump, normally with a check valve between the two.

Yep, cycles to build pressure, then stops. That's why I was on about an accumulator; it has all the hallmarks of that kind of issue.

I don't know where it would be; I've never even pulled the cover off mine. But if there is one, it will be a steel canister after the pump, normally with a check valve between the two.

Excuse my ignorance but if it was this 'accumulator' why would it stop the pump from cycling if it is after the pump its self?

Simon @ Morpowa is on the hunt for more of an electrical fault but i will advise him of this as anything would help at this stage, just waiting for a wiring diagram before we go round 2 otherwise we will be wasting time.

He found a relay at the front of the car near the air cleaner that has something to do with the Altessa that seems to not be gettin power, we are also looking into this but with out the wiring diagram its quite slow.

Cheers.

Excuse my ignorance but if it was this 'accumulator' why would it stop the pump from cycling if it is after the pump its self?

Simon @ Morpowa is on the hunt for more of an electrical fault but i will advise him of this as anything would help at this stage, just waiting for a wiring diagram before we go round 2 otherwise we will be wasting time.

He found a relay at the front of the car near the air cleaner that has something to do with the Altessa that seems to not be gettin power, we are also looking into this but with out the wiring diagram its quite slow.

Cheers.

It would only be this if it were running constantly, or cycling on & off rapidly & then going into fault. I was under the impression the pump was actually running; if it's not , you're on the right track looking for an electrical fault.

Best of luck, wasn't my intention to lead you in the wrong direction.

Cheers, Dale

It would only be this if it were running constantly, or cycling on & off rapidly & then going into fault. I was under the impression the pump was actually running; if it's not , you're on the right track looking for an electrical fault.

Best of luck, wasn't my intention to lead you in the wrong direction.

Cheers, Dale

That's cool Dale, the more things it isn't the closer we get to what it is, but it is looking very electrical ATM, just need some parts to be able to swap and check.

Cheers, Mike.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.
    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
    • Haltech fanboi reporting in. Buy the Haltech! 
    • You can try shoving a borescope down there to see what's up.
×
×
  • Create New...